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CA 3-Point Sickle Recommendations?

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dfwallis View Drop Down
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    Posted: 26 Feb 2026 at 7:52pm
Considering a sickle mower for road and ditch trimming.  Prefer 6 or 7 foot.  No experience, what's a good RELIABLE recommendation, esp brand wise?  Not a situation of wanting a native or fixer upper unit at this time. 
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb 2026 at 8:30pm
no brand, just a comment.. I have an old 1940  Allis sickle mounted on a B tractor.. Works OK... but it would be nice if  you could angle the bar and cut on slopes and hill sides... The old pitman arm type you can only tilt a few degrees from horizontal... Some models are belt drive out the the bar/ cam shaft area.. Those you can tilt quite a bit ... Something to keep in mind..
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Tracy Martin TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb 2026 at 10:58pm
Buy an AC  82T trailer type is best bet. Easy on and of. Cut in almost any position. Use one around our pond. Works Great! Tracy
No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Gary Burnett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2026 at 6:24am
As far as 3pt hitch mowers New Holland 451 and John Deere 350 are two of the best
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote DanielW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2026 at 9:08am
Someone posted a similar question on another forum I follow. For what it counts, here was my response:

We use sickle mowers for all the hay at our Northern farm because it's so rocky the nimbleness of a sickle mower is handy. And because it's mainly grass we don't need conditioning like you do for legumes. We own six, and have owned many more over the years - both pitman and wobble types. For what you're describing, you probably can't go too wrong with either type. Condition would be more important. If a pitman type, make sure the jaws and knife ball aren't too worn and you set the register. If a wobble mechanism, make sure there's minimal backlash.

Although our main mower is a JD 350 wobble-type with a 9' bar, I actually think JD had the worst of all the wobble types. You really have to be on the ball with making sure you're hitting up every grease fitting on the wobble head (two of which can't be found unless you rotate the head to the exact right position and look in the right spot). They were known to wear out and break, and the parts from JD to fix are worth more than the mower.

The IH 100/1100's and the MF Dyna-Balance were the cream of the crop for smooth, balanced, durable wobble heads. The company Rowse still makes their double and single bar sickle mowers with IH heads, because they were the best for simplicity, durability, and stokes per minute. IH would be my preference, with MF and NH following shortly thereafter. But for only 25 acres you really can't go wrong with any type or any make, as long as condition is ok.

It sounds like you've used sickle mowers before so you probably already know this. But sickle mowers around here are bought and sold stupidly frequently because folks don't appreciate their nuances. It's always some horse folks who think they'll be perfect for clipping their pasture. But as soon as they realize there's a lot of skill to use and maintain a sickle mower effectively without constant headache/plugging, they give up and sell it to the next horse person (and the process repeats).

I'm a big fan of sickle mowers: they're much faster over the ground, quieter, and take less power than a bush hog. But by the time you factor in the maintenance/alignment to keep a sickle mower in-tune and needing conditions to be right (no wet crops, no previously cut crop in the path, and preferably no lodged crops), it's rare that a 7' sickle mower will actually save much time for land maintenance over a 5' bush hog. A bush hog may be slower, louder, and need more power. But you can hook it up, drop it, and go through anything. And bush hogs require almost no maintenance. Not so much with a sickle mower (at least, not if you want to be using it effectively).


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dfwallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2026 at 11:01am
Originally posted by DanielW DanielW wrote:

Someone posted a similar question on another forum I follow. For what it counts, here was my response:

We use sickle mowers for all the hay at our Northern farm because it's so rocky the nimbleness of a sickle mower is handy. And because it's mainly grass we don't need conditioning like you do for legumes. We own six, and have owned many more over the years - both pitman and wobble types. For what you're describing, you probably can't go too wrong with either type. Condition would be more important. If a pitman type, make sure the jaws and knife ball aren't too worn and you set the register. If a wobble mechanism, make sure there's minimal backlash.

Although our main mower is a JD 350 wobble-type with a 9' bar, I actually think JD had the worst of all the wobble types. You really have to be on the ball with making sure you're hitting up every grease fitting on the wobble head (two of which can't be found unless you rotate the head to the exact right position and look in the right spot). They were known to wear out and break, and the parts from JD to fix are worth more than the mower.

The IH 100/1100's and the MF Dyna-Balance were the cream of the crop for smooth, balanced, durable wobble heads. The company Rowse still makes their double and single bar sickle mowers with IH heads, because they were the best for simplicity, durability, and stokes per minute. IH would be my preference, with MF and NH following shortly thereafter. But for only 25 acres you really can't go wrong with any type or any make, as long as condition is ok.

It sounds like you've used sickle mowers before so you probably already know this. But sickle mowers around here are bought and sold stupidly frequently because folks don't appreciate their nuances. It's always some horse folks who think they'll be perfect for clipping their pasture. But as soon as they realize there's a lot of skill to use and maintain a sickle mower effectively without constant headache/plugging, they give up and sell it to the next horse person (and the process repeats).

I'm a big fan of sickle mowers: they're much faster over the ground, quieter, and take less power than a bush hog. But by the time you factor in the maintenance/alignment to keep a sickle mower in-tune and needing conditions to be right (no wet crops, no previously cut crop in the path, and preferably no lodged crops), it's rare that a 7' sickle mower will actually save much time for land maintenance over a 5' bush hog. A bush hog may be slower, louder, and need more power. But you can hook it up, drop it, and go through anything. And bush hogs require almost no maintenance. Not so much with a sickle mower (at least, not if you want to be using it effectively).



We have 2 brush hogs and a finish mower.  Immediate need is to clean up some roadside ditches and areas that are slightly hard to get to.  Long term, I'd like it to be useful for haying, but I may never get to that point (just thinking ahead).  I see online I can get a cheap brand new Chinese one for one half what most used one's are selling for :(  But I'm afraid of them.
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Matt Tallant View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt Tallant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2026 at 6:10pm
I have a A-C #3 rear mower on a CA if interested
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dfwallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2026 at 8:22pm
Originally posted by Matt Tallant Matt Tallant wrote:

I have a A-C #3 rear mower on a CA if interested

I'm at the charity of my brother to go pick stuff up so I'm trying to keep purchases pretty close to Jackson County Indiana.  I looked at some videos and it looked like the #3 attached easily to the curved B drawbar.  I didn't see one attached to a CA.  Since I've adapted the CA drawbar to host a 3point, I was intending that all (or most) future implements would be 3point.  I'm intending to renovate all of the implements that I have which are native to the CA (plow, cultivator, planter, disc), but it should be a fairly infrequent conversion back to pin-hitch configuration to use them (no conversion needed for the disc).  I made the conversion fairly easy, but still not completely un-annoying.  The tractor originally had more implements but they got away over the years :(
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trinity45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2026 at 8:47am
Originally posted by dfwallis dfwallis wrote:

Originally posted by Matt Tallant Matt Tallant wrote:

I have a A-C #3 rear mower on a CA if interested

I'm at the charity of my brother to go pick stuff up so I'm trying to keep purchases pretty close to Jackson County Indiana.  I looked at some videos and it looked like the #3 attached easily to the curved B drawbar.  I didn't see one attached to a CA.  Since I've adapted the CA drawbar to host a 3point, I was intending that all (or most) future implements would be 3point.  I'm intending to renovate all of the implements that I have which are native to the CA (plow, cultivator, planter, disc), but it should be a fairly infrequent conversion back to pin-hitch configuration to use them (no conversion needed for the disc).  I made the conversion fairly easy, but still not completely un-annoying.  The tractor originally had more implements but they got away over the years :(
Is your CA snap or pin hitch, a number 3 mounts easily to a pin hitch CA but may have to make a mounting bracket for a snap couple,  I just bought a #3 for my snap coupler.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dfwallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2026 at 12:10pm
Originally posted by Trinity45 Trinity45 wrote:

Originally posted by dfwallis dfwallis wrote:

Originally posted by Matt Tallant Matt Tallant wrote:

I have a A-C #3 rear mower on a CA if interested

I'm at the charity of my brother to go pick stuff up so I'm trying to keep purchases pretty close to Jackson County Indiana.  I looked at some videos and it looked like the #3 attached easily to the curved B drawbar.  I didn't see one attached to a CA.  Since I've adapted the CA drawbar to host a 3point, I was intending that all (or most) future implements would be 3point.  I'm intending to renovate all of the implements that I have which are native to the CA (plow, cultivator, planter, disc), but it should be a fairly infrequent conversion back to pin-hitch configuration to use them (no conversion needed for the disc).  I made the conversion fairly easy, but still not completely un-annoying.  The tractor originally had more implements but they got away over the years :(
Is your CA snap or pin hitch, a number 3 mounts easily to a pin hitch CA but may have to make a mounting bracket for a snap couple,  I just bought a #3 for my snap coupler.

It's a pin hitch but has been modified to 3 point.  I'm going to stick with new implements being 3 point for the foreseeable future.  I've got too many old implements that are in dire shape to work on.  Until I get those working, I'm going to be hesitant to take on older implements.  That was kind of the point of creating the custom (more robust than the cross manufacturing kludge contraption) 3 point.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dfwallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2026 at 2:52pm
A MF #41 may come available soon, but after my next trip ends.  I hope it doesn't sell before my April trip.  He said that's unlikely. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dfwallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 3 hours 59 minutes ago at 12:16pm
I notice a lot of sickle mowing with grass bunching/clogging where people have to stop the tractor and unclog the bar.  Has anyone ever experimented with a smooth flat guard across the bar to see if that reduced clogging?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanielW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 3 hours 42 minutes ago at 12:33pm
Do you mean across the top of the bar behind the guards/knives? The earliest IH mowers (and the horse-drawn McCormick mowers) had the plow bolts that hold the guards on poke down from the top, rather than up from the bottom like later mowers do. It meant the bar was countersunk for the plow-bolt head to sit flush on top. It left the bar behind the knife perfectly smooth. And it may have made a little difference in plugging in short crops. But I never noticed the difference enough to worry about. I prefer the more modern setup with the guards being countersunk and the nuts at the top. On the old bars with the nuts at the bottom, the nuts/bolts poking through would get worn down and rounded off from rubbing over the ground, and sometimes could work loose. You'd want to be checking them after every 5-10 hours of cutting. And the nuts were always so worn/rounded after a few days of cutting that you could never use a wrench/socket on them. It was either vice-grips or chiseling them off.

I do notice that the newer adjustable guards with the jack bolts can cause hang-ups with the jack bolt poking up so far above the bar.

A lot (probably the majority) of folks with plugging issues don't have them set up nor run them correctly. It takes a lot to keep a sickle mower set up and maintained to cut well. Setting the register is the most often overlooked aspect: if it's out-of-register, it won't cut worth a dang and be constantly plugging and causing headaches. You'll have to crawl along at 2 MPH to cut at all, and even then it'll plug often. Setting the lead of the bar, making sure the ledgers have square edges and are level, keepig the hold-downs tight, and keeping the sections tight and sharp are also critical. On pitman mowers with the ball/socket connection, you need to make sure that ball & socket is tight with not slop/backlash. Even a small bit of slop/backlash reduces your effective stroke enough that it'll cut a lot worse.

It bugs the heck out of me when I see so many YouTube videos of folks claiming to show how to set up and run a sickle mower correctly. Then it shows them cutting and they're ooching along at a crawl in first or second gear in good standing crops, and still sometimes plugging. With a properly setup mower, you can boogey along at 6-8MPH (at least) and really fly. We still cut all the hay at our Northern farm with a 9' Deere 350 mower on a JD 2120 in sixth gear high - which according to the JD speed sheet with its 38" rear tires is something like 9.2 MPH. If it's good standing hay, I can knock it down a lot faster than I can with a haybine. If the crop is sufficiently tall, speed helps to positively pull the crop off the bar and make sure it doesn't get caught on the guard nuts or jacking bolts. The only time I can see the smooth bar of the old IH mowers being a real benefit is if you're crawling along in short crops.

Mind you, that's in a good standing, thick, dry crop with decent stems. If you have down/lodged/tangled/damp/thin/wiry crops, cutting with a sickle mower can be a nightmare no matter what you do.


Edited by DanielW - 3 hours 39 minutes ago at 12:36pm
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