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Jay Tee 
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Location: Maryland
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 Topic: Fixing up my Allis B
Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 10:36am |
I just brought home a B that has lived a pretty hard life. Some joker slapped a WD decal on there at some point - I'm not sure if it was for comedic effect. I have no idea who manufactured the mower - it looks a lot more burly than the ones I've seen fitted to these small tractors in the past. 
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 10:39am |
I bought it with the Marvel-Schebler TSX154 carburetor in bits - luckily I was able to rebuild it and get the tractor started so I could load it.
Edited by Jay Tee - 06 Jun 2025 at 10:48am
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 10:43am |
The big problems are - The governor doesn't do much if anything
- The magneto has been hacked into some kind of points distributor
- The cooling system leaks out of every hose and maybe even the water pump - hard to tell since there's so much coming out of it.
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 10:44am |
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 10:46am |
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This isn't my first Allis - I had a CA I regretfully sold 15 years ago. The difference between the CA and B is pretty amazing.
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PaulB
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
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Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 2:27pm |
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Where in Maryland are you? Anywhere close to Rocky Ridge? I have some things you may want to get things straightened out.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 7:30pm |
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Middletown area - just south west of you!
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PaulB
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Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 7:43pm |
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PM sent with contact info.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 7:53pm |
Removed mag and governor between rain storms...
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 13 Jun 2025 at 10:24am |
Dropped the governor housing off with a friend who has an amazing machine shop in his basement. He recoiled when I said I would just glue the pivot post in with JB weld. In the meantime, the radiator needs help.
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 13 Jun 2025 at 10:25am |
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PaulB
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Posted: 13 Jun 2025 at 7:37pm |
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I have an early non pressurized B radiator that may be fine as is, or at least need less work than yours.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 18 Jun 2025 at 4:37pm |
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I gave up on that radiator - the core was full of leaks. I found a reasonably priced new one which I just ordered.
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 18 Jun 2025 at 4:40pm |
My machinist friend fixed the loose pivot post on the governor housing. I'm really pleased with the result!
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 18 Jun 2025 at 4:42pm |
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The engine serial number is CR 51181 PA - from what I can tell this is was from 1941. The tractor serial number is from 1948, so it must have blown up and been replaced with the earlier one at some point. I don't know what "CR" means - I thought the engine serial numbers began with either BE or CE
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PaulB
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Posted: 18 Jun 2025 at 6:32pm |
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Yes: The engine serial numbers BEGIN with BE,CE, R or CR, The CR engines were originally installed in Power units. The ending letter(s) designates the compression ratio when it left the factory
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Jay Tee
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Location: Maryland
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Posted: 18 Jun 2025 at 7:40pm |
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Thank you! That kind of info is a bit scarce - but at least I know this isn't the original engine!
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Phil48ACWC
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Location: Vermont
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Posted: 19 Jun 2025 at 5:19am |
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I have a good hot spark FMJ Magneto if your interested. It came off my WC and has been totally gone through. Works great. $100 plus shipping.
Edited by Phil48ACWC - 19 Jun 2025 at 5:20am
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 06 Jul 2025 at 7:02pm |
I was fitting the magneto I got from Phil48ACWC when I noticed the crank had a lot more end play than the 1-5 thousands specified by the book. More like 1/32". I dropped the oil pan, removed the main caps and took a look at the crank, which seems fine to me. Although there was some goo in the pan and the remains of the thrust bearings, everything looks pretty good in there as well. So I'm thinking I might get away with just replacing the bearings.
The only marking on the bearings I see is a script FM with 2 51 underneath that. This makes me think this is a stock crank since I don't see the usual 010, 020 etc. stamps in undersized bearings. Is this assumption correct?
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 07 Jul 2025 at 6:51pm |
Removed the front end since the pivot bolt head blocked the pan just enough.
And the pile of parts is getting bigger.
Edited by Jay Tee - 07 Jul 2025 at 6:51pm
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 13 Jul 2025 at 7:41pm |
Had a little bit of time to make a magneto clamp out of 1" flat stock
Edited by Jay Tee - 13 Jul 2025 at 7:44pm
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 02 Aug 2025 at 2:24pm |
The tractor is mostly back together and it runs pretty nicely except I cannot figure out why the governor goes from idle to pretty much full speed with very little in between. All the linkages are free and greased. The governor doesn't show any signs of sticking or heavy wear and the bearing is installed correctly. Is it because this engine didn't start life as a tractor engine and it really wasn't supposed to have more than one speed?
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 02 Aug 2025 at 2:32pm |
Here's the governor itself - looks OK to me!
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PaulB
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Posted: 02 Aug 2025 at 7:34pm |
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These engines are extremely sensitive to having the cross arm adjust correctly as instructed in the service manual. Also if the butterfly is lose to the throttle shaft or the arm on the throttle shaft is lose they could also give you problems. I'm not there looking at it so I can only throw darts in the dark.
Edited by PaulB - 02 Aug 2025 at 8:00pm
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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steve(ill)
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Location: illinois
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Posted: 02 Aug 2025 at 7:42pm |
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set the hand throttle lever WIDE OPEN ( forward)... go to the front left side of the engine and pull the pin out of the carburetor rod to the governor cross arm..... pull the carb rod FORWARD to the wide open position... see if the hole and pin align... if not, bend the cross over arm until the hole and pin align.... Make sure the cross over arm is not dragging on the thermostat housing..... make sure the carburetor lever on the shaft is not dragging the engine block..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 02 Aug 2025 at 11:03pm |
I double-checked the relationship between the governor cross arm and carburetor throttle rod, and it was within the 1/32" to 1/16" preload figure the manual specifies. I guess the idea is that the governor spring should pull the throttle lever to WOT just a hair before it runs into its own stop.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 03 Aug 2025 at 7:57am |
its possible that the rod from the throttle lever by the steering column, to the governor arm is the wrong length.. Lever should go from LO ( back) to HI RPM ( forward) and you see the spring loaded arm on the governor move... spring starts out loose, then stretches and pulls the cross over arm as you go to HI RPM......
you might try to loosen the set screw on the throttle lever and pull the small rod out 1/8 - 1/4 inch and try that... then looosen and put it in 1/8 to 1/4 inch from Original position and see if either of those changes things for the better... fine tune from there..... assuming you have the RIGHT SPRING on the gov and not just a hardware store replacement.
Edited by steve(ill) - 03 Aug 2025 at 7:58am
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Straanger
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Posted: 03 Aug 2025 at 11:55am |
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Could this be a gen-set governor instead of a tractor governor?
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Jay Tee
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Posted: 03 Aug 2025 at 12:16pm |
You guys were right! The governor cross arm was pulling too hard on the rod to the carburetor. Once I bent the arm back towards the carburetor by a little over 1/16" it started working perfectly. I'm guessing this was the governor from the original engine that was slapped onto this one without adjustment. Next job is to get the shutters back on and button up the engine cover. Then it's on to the hydraulic rams, which are stuck.
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PaulB
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Posted: 03 Aug 2025 at 7:09pm |
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They wrote service manual for a reason. When you do what they tell you, things operate soooo much better.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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