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cfciii03 
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Joined: 20 May 2021
Location: 43560
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 Topic: Model B Starter Coils
Posted: 26 Feb 2022 at 10:10am |
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Have a 1955 Model B. Starter not working. Found the starter coil leads have separated from the copper terminal. Is it possible to reconnect ? If so, how ?
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 26 Feb 2022 at 2:01pm |
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did they break or did the starter get HOT and melt the solder ?
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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AaronSEIA
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Mt Pleasant, IA
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Posted: 27 Feb 2022 at 5:55am |
What are you calling the starter coil? Original starter used a push rod and button switch similar to the WD. No coil anywhere. AaronSEIA
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Les Kerf
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Location: Idaho
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Posted: 27 Feb 2022 at 6:27am |
They can be re-soldered but you had best be really good at soldering  It requires a lot of heat to get it up to soldering temp quickly and then get out before it melts things that you don't want to be melted  As mentioned above, I would first want to know what caused them to become loose.
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WF owner
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Posted: 27 Feb 2022 at 6:53am |
 AaronSEIA wrote:
What are you calling the starter coil? Original starter used a push rod and button switch similar to the WD. No coil anywhere. AaronSEIA
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I assume he is talking about the field coils inside the starter.
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cfciii03
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Posted: 27 Feb 2022 at 10:36am |
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Yes - we are talking about the coils within the starter. The copper leads from the coils are supposed to be soldered to the copper terminal. For some reason (maybe a poor prior repair) the solder cracked and the leads are no longer attached. Can the leads simply be resoldered ? If so, what solder to use ?
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 27 Feb 2022 at 1:21pm |
If the solder cracked, it's either because it wasn't properly soldered, or the terminal and lead relationship was stressed enough to fracture the soldering.
They CAN be soldered... a rosin-core solder, and a POWERFUL soldering rig. A BIG soldering gun might do it... but a torch-type heated tip iron would be best.
The reason why it'll be so difficult, is because the copper terminal will pull the heat away FAST. Thermal transfer coefficient of copper is very high, that's why it's a preferred heat-sink material. This being the case, it will tend to pull heat away from the solder point.
A propane torch would work, too, but you'll be faced with melting the smaller wire away, too. Get in there with lots of heat, get the terminal hot, get solder on it, heat the wire quick, put 'em together, flow it, and get out.
What you do NOT want to do, is get the copper so hot that your flame changes to green... when that happens, you're destroying the copper.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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1939Dodge
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Posted: 28 Feb 2022 at 9:24am |
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First thing I would do is talk to Steve at B&B Cusrom Circuits
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Les Kerf
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Location: Idaho
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Posted: 28 Feb 2022 at 9:48am |
1939Dodge wrote:
First thing I would do is talk to Steve at B&B Cusrom Circuits |
This is really good advice. I recently rebuilt the dead 6 volt starter for my Model C by purchasing a 12 volt kit from Ebay, complete with armature, field coils, terminal, bushings, etc.. I had to solder those field core leads to the terminal using a torch; I have a pretty good grasp on soldering (avionics tech, biomed tech, general electronics tech, etc. since the mid 70's) and I achieved a good bond, but there isn't much room for error. I have no clue as to the quality of the the kit but I seriously doubt it is as good as what Steve provides.
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 02 Mar 2022 at 8:54am |
Coming into this a bit late, but to be honest, I don't get involved with repairing field coils. Once a weak link, always a weak link on them. Don't ask how I know that. LOL! Yeah, I tried to repair them numerous times in my early years of rebuilding, only with failure at the end. I always just install a new pair of fields and be done with it. Dave's last sentence pretty much say it all....... Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 02 Mar 2022 at 9:04am |
You might try a 'silver' solder or a 'hard' solder. CLEAN the wire and lug first, bright and shiny, 'tin' both, then solder them together. I do have a 250W iron here, 1" chisel tip..takes 'forever' to heat up BUT it's great at repairing 'big heatsinky' things....
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
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Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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