Tire Pressure

Are they Bias Ply or radials? You run less air pressure in bias. 15-18 for a bias, around 13-15 for a radial. You're pretty good either way. If you carry a lot of 3-pt weight and notice them squatting a lot, add a little more.

They usually have a "R" before the rim size. Like 18.4 R34. THey probably say radial somewhere as well if it's still readable. Radials always squat a little more than bias ply and get a little better traction.

Radial will say so.Minimum of "R" in the size.

Now I am extremely curious but will have to look tomorrow and report back. Thanks to all replies !!

If you are using them as outer duals I would drop the pressure to 10- 12 pounds, you don't carry that much weight and the crown of the tire is lower and a little less stress on things.

KJCHRIS wrote: From an AC200 Oper Man'l., tire info on page with Grd Speed chart and oil, fuel, coolant capacity chart. Man'l is from before we had radial tractor tires!! 18.4-34 R2  6ply;  16 psi. 18.4-34 R1  6 ply; 16 psi. 18.4-34 R1  8 ply; 16 min 20 max psi. 18.4-38 R1  6 ply; 16 psi. 18.4-38 R2  6 ply; 16 psi.

 

It is. Too many people have no idea. And then they wonder why they go through (disc) brakes so fast. "Tight as I can get 'em!" is neither correct, nor an actual torque value lol

I know, I know... on certain forums I've been given the dubious honor of being named "Torque Anal." But if torque settings didn't matter, why list them?

They spec 89 for my car. It has fancy-dancy factory wheels. 89 crosses to 130 nm or something like that. I changed to winter tires last weekend and I didn’t get a hernia removing the lug nuts, yet they were sufficiently tight. I use a torque wrench - a good enough one can be had for under $40. Doncha love it when you see a tire shop using an impact wrench to buzz the lug nuts on?

So a little less in bias ply Dave? Your post seems to have the numbers reversed then.

Way back before aluminum wheels I was taught to tighten lug nuts until they squeal no torque setting. The need for a torque wrench came with aluminum instead of steel wheels because the aluminum couldn't stand the torque that steel took.

My JD '98 4020 manual says for 18.4-34 run 16 psi for 6 ply tires for all occasions. For 8 ply it says run 20 psi instead of 16 if the tractor has lots of weights or very heavy mounted implements. Otherwise 16 psi.

Gerald J.

The tires  say POWER TORQUE on the sidewall and no where does it say bias or radial. One says made in Canada and the other USA . Our torque spec for the combine logs is on a sticker on the rim, and it seemed like ALOT?? BTW, the F2 drives are Firestone ALL TRACTION 23* 28L-26's,12 ply tubeless and again, R-1 and no mention of B or R. Dad did call the local tire shop for pressure recommendation and they only offered 10-16 PSI. Any thoughts on pressure in them? Thanks

FREEDGUY wrote: The tires  say POWER TORQUE on the sidewall and no where does it say bias or radial. One says made in Canada and the other USA . Our torque spec for the combine logs is on a sticker on the rim, and it seemed like ALOT?? BTW, the F2 drives are Firestone ALL TRACTION 23* 28L-26's,12 ply tubeless and again, R-1 and no mention of B or R. Dad did call the local tire shop for pressure recommendation and they only offered 10-16 PSI. Any thoughts on pressure in them? Thanks

Your F2 28Lx26s, are floatation tires & a great setup for wet muddy harvest years. Their low 8-10lb tire pressure in mud, will nearly enable the F2 to walk on water.
The 12ply seems excessive until you consider crop stubble damage. This is especially true if operating with lower pressure 8-10lbs in corn stalks if your fields have narrow rows that your tires are constantly running down. A squatting sideways of a 6ply are extremely prone to be punctured from corn stalk stubble. Not so much with a 12 ply though.

Edited by AC7060IL - 07 Nov 2018 at 12:39am