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Need some help |
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Ryan T ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 23 Dec 2016 Location: Ariche mo Points: 107 |
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All right I put a post out there that I am restoring a 1935 wc unstyled I asked what kind of paint should I get the only answer that I got back was a Persian number one but I don't really know where to get that I don't want to use your local farm supply paint but our local body shop looks at me crazy. I also really don't want to do a lot of buffing clear wet sanding and all that a good single stage would be fine but what do you all recommend to use
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Ryan T ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 23 Dec 2016 Location: Ariche mo Points: 107 |
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Thanks Ryan
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dave63 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 01 Feb 2011 Location: Lineboro Md Points: 2382 |
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You need to find a PPG store. PO #1 is 600080 I think
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The universal answer to all questions is yes, how much do you want to spend?
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Allis dave ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 3042 |
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I used NAPA Martin Senour paint for my WD45. Acrylic enamel single stage. All the paint codes should be in the knowledgebase. Mine accidentally ended up being PO2, but it does look nice. I didn't know there were all these color differences at the time.
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DiyDave ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 54062 |
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Buy a lot of PO #1, it don't cover very well...
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Ryan T ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 23 Dec 2016 Location: Ariche mo Points: 107 |
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Are you talking about the ppg orJust in general
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DiyDave ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 54062 |
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In general. Orange of any color is hard to get to cover...
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AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5226 |
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The PPG paint that I get from Merlin Boshart at Amac is excellent paint. Good coverage and applies very well using 8:1:1 ratio. I recommend low temp fast dry this time of year. It allows 10 minute flash time dry and then your ready for the next coat. $95/gal plus shipping. He has i believe 25 years experience in restoring AC tractors. I'm using PO#2 for my 190XT but I am sure he has PO#1 also.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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LAG ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Dec 2013 Location: Ferndale, WA Points: 38 |
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Got to a PPG dealer and purchase Omni - #60080 [Persian orange #1]. Omni is a lower priced brand carried by PPG. It is also single stage urethane and easy to apply. Depending on how clean your finished job is (dust or dirt nibs), you probably won't need to buff it.
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'39 B,'28 20-35,'63 B-10, '85 920(diesel), Spoker D,Nickel D, AOS, GP, BR 2- 10-20 Titans, and brass era cars
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HudCo ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 29 Jan 2013 Location: Plymouth Utah Points: 3896 |
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buy a gallon
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LAG ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Dec 2013 Location: Ferndale, WA Points: 38 |
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If you're going to use Omni, you may not need a full gallon. Omni has a hardner and the mix ratio is 4:1:1, meaning four parts paint, one part hardner, one part reducer. Since Omni is pretty thin, I'd would use only half the reducer.
I think 3 quarts would be enough, as Omni recommends 2-coats. I would first apply a medium gray (non-sanding) sealer as a base, (one quart should be enough), then paint over it. Since you catalize the paint, any left over cannot be returned to the can, but must be thrown away, as it will only have about an 8 hr pot life, so it's okay to mix on the "short" side and mix more as you need it. I would recommend getting a couple mixing cups when you buy the paint. The mixing cups will have several mixing ratios printed on it, so you won't have any math to figure out. As far as the hardner and reducer, unless your painting in temp over 80F, I'd go with the fast reducer.
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'39 B,'28 20-35,'63 B-10, '85 920(diesel), Spoker D,Nickel D, AOS, GP, BR 2- 10-20 Titans, and brass era cars
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desertjoe ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 23 Sep 2013 Location: New mexico Points: 13693 |
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Hey Ryan,,,,,by all means, plan on spraying a Primer/Sealer before you shoot the color. The reds tend to not cover very well and the sealer provides a good base for the color. Go to Harbor Freight and buy one of their HVLP gravity flow paint guns. I think they are less than $20 and will save you lots of paint due to their high transfer rate and low overspray. I used TSC's "Allis Chalmers Orange" with the hardner and have gotten great results on two AC's so far. I have no idea how "close" their paint is to the original AC orange but if you're lookin to get a nice lookin paint job without spending a ton of money,,I would check out the TSC paint. If you are doing a complete, I would get a gallon pail and mix up half of the gallon of paint with their required hardner and reducer. Reason is,,,the transfer rate on the HVLP guns is very high compared to the old style suction guns and you will use lots less paint for the same amount of coverage. The pot life with the hardner will be 3-5 hours dependin on the ambient temp and humidity, so,,if something happens and you can't finish,,,you won't have to throw away most of your paint,,,,,, ![]() Hope this helps you,,,, ![]() |
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LeonR2013 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 01 Jan 2013 Location: Fulton, Mo Points: 3500 |
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Good advice Joe. Another little trick is put your left over paint and gun in the frig. and you can extend the spraying life somewhat.
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Ryan T ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 23 Dec 2016 Location: Ariche mo Points: 107 |
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Awesome advice thanks so much. The tractor has been completely took apart and blasted and primed. Replacing seals and gaskets now. Then should be ready to trim in and start to reasonable. Thanks again
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