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Charlie175 
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Shenandoah, VA
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 Topic: Sheet metal work
Posted: 26 Sep 2016 at 3:39pm |
Show some of your successful or maybe not so successful repairs.
I'm trying to patch some WD fenders...
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 26 Sep 2016 at 5:12pm |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Charlie175
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Posted: 28 Sep 2016 at 5:23am |
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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aras
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Location: Weston, WI
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Posted: 28 Sep 2016 at 6:55am |
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AMAZING! But I am curious as to how they hold up. I was told that WD fenders vibrate enough to cause the cracking over time. Wouldn't they start to crack again in new places eventually?
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 28 Sep 2016 at 7:34am |
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Folks,
Thanks! Hope those pictures may help Charlie (sorry) and others with some AC body work. Time will tell how they hold up. I have one small crack so far that is in the filler material. Welding in new steel and using minimal fillers is probably the best approach. Would new repro fenders have been easier? Yes! But we learned a lot.
Regards,
Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 28 Sep 2016 at 9:05pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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aras
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Posted: 28 Sep 2016 at 8:23am |
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I love what you did and I think repos are thinner than originals?
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Allis dave
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Location: Northern IN
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Posted: 28 Sep 2016 at 8:34am |
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Once again, you do Great work Chris. That takes a lot of talent!
Then again, I think it takes a lot of talent AND also a lot of patience! I'm a little short on both.
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Dick L
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Posted: 28 Sep 2016 at 11:07am |
Chris if you are not a body man you are now. Good job. You have the weld in patching down. I still do a little. Last one was welding in a new horse trailer front skin.
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LeonR2013
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Posted: 28 Sep 2016 at 7:31pm |
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Chris anytime you have to use filler especially if it's going to be thick use some filler they call Alumalead ( not spelled right). It's holds up to stress and vibration a lot better than regular filler.
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Dan73
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Posted: 28 Sep 2016 at 7:39pm |
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Chris that is amazing work. I always learn something new when I read your posts. Thanks for all the photos. Do you use a mig welder for that? Seems like it would be easier then a stick on the thin stuff.
As to reproduction fenders be glad you could fix the old ones the new ones are thin and dented out of the box. I have a pair and would have to do a ton of work to get them to look half as good as those you have.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 28 Sep 2016 at 9:11pm |
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Charile,
We want to see some pictures of your WD fender project! Hope we can lear a thing or two from you!
I had never heard of that Alumlead filler?
I have a older Mig welder that is pretty good on thin materials. I just wish my eyes could see well enough to weld. Getting tougher all the time!
Thanks for the kind words, the fenders and tractors are 20-30 footers!
Regards,
Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Dan73
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Posted: 28 Sep 2016 at 9:18pm |
Chris sounds like you need to go visit the eye doctor....  When I read that all I could think was the day my mother finally admitted she was blind only to admit after I got her to the eye doctor and they removed her cataracts that she should have had it done years earlier. I know they can't fix everything but if they can be fixed I say get it done your site is something you don't want to loose....
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 28 Sep 2016 at 9:22pm |
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Dan,
its called getting older and tri focals and magnifier in the hood and still cant see the darn weld puddle as well as I would like. Just frustating some times. I stick welded a bunch as a kid on my first job and liked to lay down a nice 1/2 inch bead of weld.
Regards,
Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Dan73
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Posted: 28 Sep 2016 at 9:40pm |
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Yup Chris i do understand that. I need to get out my welder and get build up my skills there. Never could get good at starting a weld without sticking the rod. If I could just get the Ark started it I could run a descent weld.... that is a skill I have alot of respect for in others.
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Charlie175
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Posted: 29 Sep 2016 at 5:08am |
I was slacking and didn't take pictures. The portion above the bolt mounts was bad so I cut that and put in a new patch. I was having burn through issues on my wire feed even on the lowest setting. Ended up putting a lot of wire on it and grinding it down but it did blend well. I was going to leave the tack weld dips as is as they must have come from the factory that way but then I saw yours and decided to blend them in. I tried to shape the fenders but I really need an English wheel, they will have to suffice as is. Trying to patch two dents on the top of the nose piece. Contour blending is hard! I think it looks good and then shoot it with primer only to discover flat spots or something else needing redone...
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 29 Sep 2016 at 8:19pm |
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Charlie,
Your fix sounds about right where they normally rust out. Sanding painting and doing it again sounds about right too!
Just get us some after pictures!
Regards,
Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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