1950 WD

check to make sure the little pipe that sticks up inside the oil filter hasn't vibrated loose. 

Pull the valve cover and make sure you have oil dripping out of the rocker shaft. If you do then run it until warm and drain the oil then replace with fresh and replace filter. Low oil pressure may be why it was parked but if you have oil up to the rockers then you are safe to run it and do more testing/checking.

Thanks for the info Lonn! Great to know that, will be back to either comment what was wrong or ask more questions. 

Allis dave, good to know, I haven't run it more than about 30 seconds at a time and maybe 4 or 5 times due to the fear of engine damage. Runs like a top tho! Definitely getting oil to the head, and more than at the filter too, I plan on changing oil and filter before I run it any length of time,  just wanted to check with some people with more experience before I wreck the engine. I don't have a book yet either but will be ordering one of those too. I did unscrew the gauge while running and oil flow is there, just less than I am used to seeing.there is a tee fitting between the port in the head which the external line connects and the oil filter housing, looks like it dumps oil back into the bottom end thru this fitting, doesn't make exact sense to me, why not run all the oil thru the filter vs what might make it there? Thanks again!

http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=127481&title=wd45-full-flow-oiling-conversion-how-to

Check out this topic and you'll learn more than you ever wanted to know about your oiling system.

This is called a bypass oil system. Like someone stated earlier, it only actually filters a little bit of the oil.

Usually what happens on these block if you truly have low oil pressure, is the cam bearing get worn. Oil hits the cam bearings first and if they're too worn, then they lose oil and there's not much left to pass to the main and rod bearings. You may not be having LOTS of oil, but since you're seeing oil up to the head you're at least getting enough to the rest of the motor that I wouldn't worry about running it at low RPM's for a few minutes for testing.

Funny, I read alot of this post last night while digging for info Allis dave! Haha great info, but was getting tired and it wasn't soaking into my brain. 

The WD oil system is sufficient. thousands of tractors have ran for almost 70 years with it. Most important is just to make sure you do have some oil pressure on the gauge. I only said run at low rpm's, because if there is a problem, I'd rather be running slow than wide open.

The full flow conversion is a good improvement but not necessary. I did it partly just because I could.

You can also shim the relief valve in the side of the block to increase pressure, but this only works if you already have "extra" oil flow that's dumping into the block through the valve. If your cam bearings are worn too much, shimming won't really help.

Lonn's suggestion increases oil plump flow by turning the pump faster. It requires switching out with a D17 cam from a full flow block.

yeah, they usually only register 10-15 pounds. An original gauge is 0-30. A generic gauge would work too as long as the threads and pressure was the same.
Maybe you don't have any problem. That'd be nice! I would change the gauge first. Several site sponsors here sell good ones for a reasonable price.

I've got a allis gu ru not far from me, he said that he has one so I'm on my way in about 20 min to get it and that will hopefully tell the tale that there is no problem. And yes allis dave, that would be awesome!  I did putt around on it a but after I pulled the valve cover and verified oil dripping off rocker assembly,  not alot of dripping but I couldn't resist! As long as I'm going after the gauge, I'm gonna grab a battery also. It's not hard to start with the crank UNLESS you flood it, then, simply walk away for a bit! Haha should know by tonight what it's doing, then on to the changes of fluids....

You could take off the cylinder and put hand crank screws in there. I can't think what they're called. I have one and use it when hauling a disk or something behind a truck.

you'd crank it out when going into the field, and back in when leaving. Might not be too bad depending on how many fields you had. Granpa's drill was like that his whole life. Crank it down when you got the fireld and drill in a square around the field until done.

I think I've got it figured out how to turn the double acting ram on the haybine to a single acting ram and use it that way, then have a switching valve right behind the seat so I can control height and transport/cut ram in a fairly efficient manor. Thanks guys! Sorry I haven't got pics yet, but if you've seen one, you've seen em all! Haha. Soon tho

CTuckerNWIL, basically the same thing as I planned but was going to use a oil/hydraulic filter, whichever fit. Any pros or cons on using either one? Thanks for the tip! Didn't think of them...

pigpenH wrote: CTuckerNWIL, basically the same thing as I planned but was going to use a oil/hydraulic filter, whichever fit. Any pros or cons on using either one? Thanks for the tip! Didn't think of them...