433I electric shutoff

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   I have a 433I (serial 33-00228) in an AC 706 forklift that will not start.  In past week, I have noticed when I turned it off at the key switch, the engine would de-cellerate some but not stop.  I would then turn the key back to run then off again and it would stop running.
I checked the voltage at the injection pump electric line to the electric solenoid stud and it is well over 12volts.  This weekend, my son helped me get it running for about 5 minutes.  He turned the ignition switch while I tapped the solenoid housing with a metal object.  It fired up, ran for a while, then shut down suddenly like I had turned off the key.  Now, I can't get it to do anything.  Do the solenoids just quit working on these over time?  Is this something I could fix without removing the whole injection pump?  If so, do I just remove the 3 bolt governor housing, return injector fuel line, & 12v wire to get at it??  Its really dirty all over this area.  I have tired to powerwash it but some of the dirt is stuck like concrete.  Below is a picture after I washed it.  Ive always understood to keep it clean around diesel fuel injection pumps.  Is there a solvent that anyone can recommend to aid in cleaning this up before I start repairs?  Any advise would be helpful - Thanks.

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Eric[IL] Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Illinois Points: 485	Post Options Post Reply Quote Eric[IL] Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: 433I electric shutoff Posted: 28 Nov 2011 at 11:10am
	I have a 433I (serial 33-00228) in an AC 706 forklift that will not start. In past week, I have noticed when I turned it off at the key switch, the engine would de-cellerate some but not stop. I would then turn the key back to run then off again and it would stop running. I checked the voltage at the injection pump electric line to the electric solenoid stud and it is well over 12volts. This weekend, my son helped me get it running for about 5 minutes. He turned the ignition switch while I tapped the solenoid housing with a metal object. It fired up, ran for a while, then shut down suddenly like I had turned off the key. Now, I can't get it to do anything. Do the solenoids just quit working on these over time? Is this something I could fix without removing the whole injection pump? If so, do I just remove the 3 bolt governor housing, return injector fuel line, & 12v wire to get at it?? Its really dirty all over this area. I have tired to powerwash it but some of the dirt is stuck like concrete. Below is a picture after I washed it. Ive always understood to keep it clean around diesel fuel injection pumps. Is there a solvent that anyone can recommend to aid in cleaning this up before I start repairs? Any advise would be helpful - Thanks.

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SenseiCrusher Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 20 Sep 2011 Points: 124	Post Options Post Reply Quote SenseiCrusher Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Nov 2011 at 11:21am
	Trichlorethylene is good if you have any (I still have a few gallons). I use aerosol brake cleaner like Weaver with the spray hose it tends to blast off stuff. Screw drive method is always safest as long as electric is disabled. I also use a wire engine cleaning brush on my air drill for nooks and hard to reach spots. For this cooked on crap I would soak some shop rags and let them sit there to see if it would loosen up, I have also used a hot air gun at times for tar. Looks nasty!

injpumpEd Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Walnut IL Points: 5096	Post Options Post Reply Quote injpumpEd Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Nov 2011 at 12:07pm
	the solenoid in the pump could have failed, or the metering valve could be very sticky due to old fuel. clean off outside of pump with brakleen, and remove top cover of inj pump. solenoid is in the cover. look in the pump once cover is removed and see how clean it is and free the metering valve/gov linkage all moves.
	210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!

EricTn Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mid Tenn Points: 98	Post Options Post Reply Quote EricTn Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Nov 2011 at 3:59pm
	If or when you take the top cover off, take note of the position of things inside there! I think it is possible to be put back together wrong. If not correct, the engine can run out of control and not much you can do except hope the clutch will hold to kill the engine. Maybe injpumpEd can further explain this or correct me if wrong. EricTN

Eric[IL] Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Illinois Points: 485	Post Options Post Reply Quote Eric[IL] Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Nov 2011 at 5:05pm
	Ok. I cleaned & removed the top cap off the injection pump. I checked out the solenoid. It functioned properly. I checked out the metering valve movement. It moved fine. I re-installed the top cap making sure the solenoid arm was pushing against the metering spring loaded metering arm. I primed the fuel system. It started and ran for about 1-2minutes and then shut down by itself again. Its running out of fuel somewhere between the injector pump to the fuel tank. It must have some sort of fuel blockage in the following; - prime pump. - fuel filter or assembly. - fuel line from tank to fuel filter assembly.

EricTn Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mid Tenn Points: 98	Post Options Post Reply Quote EricTn Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Nov 2011 at 6:36pm
	it doesn't really sound like the check ball in the return line fitting being clogged but it would be an easy check if not already.

injpumpEd Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Walnut IL Points: 5096	Post Options Post Reply Quote injpumpEd Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Nov 2011 at 6:41pm
	try running it with the timing window loosened, so it can leak off the housing pressure. was there black particles in the top of pump down by metering valve?
	210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!

Eric[IL] Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Illinois Points: 485	Post Options Post Reply Quote Eric[IL] Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Nov 2011 at 12:26am
	The fuel condition inside the top cap was good. I did not see any black particles or coffee grounds known to be the culprit from a bad plastic ring located deep inside the pump.

Eric[IL] Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Illinois Points: 485	Post Options Post Reply Quote Eric[IL] Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 Dec 2011 at 7:02am
	I found the problem. At the bottom of the fuel tank was a 90 degree elbow and then a rubber fuel hose leading from it to the fuel filter. Back at the elbow, the metal area of the rubber fuel hose was plugged, you know the swivel nut & metal tube inside the crimp end where the metal meets the rubber hose. That metal tube area is about 3/16" diameter and had caked rust dammed up inside of it about 1/2"-3/4" in length. I took a drill bit and cleaned it out. 433I runs good now.