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J&J 
Bronze Level
Joined: 24 Apr 2021
Location: IN
Points: 59
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 Topic: Here's my plan for wiring the CA
Posted: 18 hours 25 minutes ago at 3:16pm |
Any thoughts or advice...
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PaulB
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
Points: 5266
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Posted: 16 hours 43 minutes ago at 4:58pm |
I would just get a wiring harness from "The Brillman Co." Www.brillman.com Just tell them when ordering what alternator you wish to use and it will be plug and play. There's no need to make it any more complex than it needs to be.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 90500
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Posted: 14 hours 18 minutes ago at 7:23pm |
print looks good.. I think you got it....... I did the same thing 20 years ago... Made up 5 harnesses for "B" tractors...but i have toggle switch to turn ON.. then push button to START.... used them all.. 
Companies charge $160. just for the WIRES... then you need the switches and fuses if any. Cost is minimal if you got the understanding of electricity..
Edited by steve(ill) - 14 hours 14 minutes ago at 7:27pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Les Kerf
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Joined: 08 May 2020
Location: Idaho
Points: 1613
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Posted: 13 hours 16 minutes ago at 8:25pm |
Anyone who will put that much effort into a schematic will have no problem building a first-class harness. 
I usually roll my own, but had Grandson do the wiring on the CA last year just for the education. Materials are getting quite spendy nowadays.
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Jgranat
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Joined: 25 Mar 2019
Location: NW PA
Points: 144
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Posted: 3 hours 14 minutes ago at 6:27am |
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I wire all my tractors similar to this, 5 ACs, 4 Fords, 2 Farmalls, no factory harnesses. Troubleshooting should be easy, if they ever fail me....every one is 12 volt negative ground.
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 25162
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Posted: 2 hours 52 minutes ago at 6:49am |
well, since you asked.... 1) remove one of the fusible links in the alt-bat feed 2) install a +-40 amp ammeter 3) replace 10SI with the smaller CS-130 series or a Denso unit 4) install a 4 place fuse block instead of the 'power ' fusible link 5) one color per function 6) crimp,solder, heat shrink all end connectors
Edited by jaybmiller - 2 hours 38 minutes ago at 7:03am
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Les Kerf
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Joined: 08 May 2020
Location: Idaho
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Posted: 1 hour 24 minutes ago at 8:17am |
 jaybmiller wrote:
well, since you asked.... 1) remove one of the fusible links in the alt-bat feed 2) install a +-40 amp ammeter 3) replace 10SI with the smaller CS-130 series or a Denso unit 4) install a 4 place fuse block instead of the 'power ' fusible link 5) one color per function 6) crimp,solder, heat shrink all end connectors
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Good points to consider. 
I much prefer a voltmeter rather than an ammeter, but I am too much of a cheapskate to remove a functional ammeter 
I am not a fan of fusible links.
The 10SI alternator is indeed a tight fit on a Model CA as there is not much room for adjustment next to the steering arm, but it can be made to work so long as the adjustable pulley on the water pump isn't rusted tight.
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 25162
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Posted: 56 minutes ago at 8:45am |
voltmeter can lie, only shows the potential or possible energy whereas an ammeter ACTUALLY shows electrons moving in and out of the battery.
'they' went from ammeters to voltmeters as a cheap cheat.. as they're easier to intall( cheap and universal).
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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