![]() |
This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity. | |||||
The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
Shop ideas |
Post Reply ![]() |
Page 12> |
Author | |
spencefarm ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 29 Apr 2013 Location: Fairbury IL Points: 349 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 16 Feb 2018 at 9:27pm |
Hey all, we are looking at finally building a farm shop. Any thoughts on things I need to make sure to have in there? Thanks
|
|
![]() |
|
Sponsored Links | |
![]() |
|
DanWi ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: wttn Points: 1900 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
How big will it be? How much can you spend? And what do you want to do in it? A friend built a shop a few years ago and he put a drive over pit in it and he loves it and so do the neighbors that use. works for everything from sharpening lawnmower blades to semis and big tractors. I know some people may say a pit is a nono codes dangerous and so on but when you get older it is alot easier getting under things, some might suggest a car hoist but there are some things to big for that. Other things would be a sink hot and cold water, depending on location from house a toilet and shower. desk computer fridge microwave and a drain in the floor and floor heat.
Edited by DanWi - 16 Feb 2018 at 9:43pm |
|
![]() |
|
goomer ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 18 Feb 2016 Location: wi Points: 53 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
We have an office area with restroom and built parts/storage shelves above that area. Also holds the air compressor and boiler for in floor heat up there. Put lighting on separate switches. Some times we don't need the whole shop lite up. Air compressor we use a lot for blowing out silage from radiators and cabs on the trucks probably our best investment was one that could keep up. Work pit is very nice for oil changes, greasing and general repair under trucks. We have a net that is on cables to cover pit and also plywood panels to put over when not in use.
|
|
![]() |
|
Reindeer ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Calgary, AB Points: 650 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Prairie Farm Report has a nice bunch of videos available on different farm shops that have been built. Lots of good ideas. They sell some and some are on line.
Dave
Edited by Reindeer - 16 Feb 2018 at 10:30pm |
|
|
|
![]() |
|
shameless dude ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Apr 2017 Location: east NE Points: 13607 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
yep....how much ya wanna spend? we all gots lots of ideas for you!
|
|
![]() |
|
DiyDave ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 53357 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Build it round so sh!t don't pile up in the corners...
![]() |
|
![]() |
|
WF owner ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4891 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Before you make too many plans, check with your local building code officer and your insurance agent to check on the regulations.
Code enforcement told me I would need an oil/water separator ($$$$) if I installed a floor drain IF the building was commercial (some states consider a farm to be commercial). The best way is to check with your local code enforcement because codes vary a lot from one state to another. Since I am not considered commercial, I have 36' of 4" wide plastic drain in the middle of the floor. My floor slopes 1" per 12' toward the drain (which really isn't quite enough slope). I put in a 9000 lb. (extra long, extra tall) 4 post car lift that I love. I use it for splitting tractors (underneath it) along with the maintenance on our vehicles. My shop is 60' x 28' with a 16' ceiling. The reason I kept it 28' wide is that I used truss (clear span) floor joists, so I have storage overhead. I have 18" of straight side walls and my rafters are 7.5/12 pitch, so I have about 9' of height in the center of the storage. If I was to do it over again, I would put a couple coupalas (sp) with vents. It gets very hot up there in the summer! I have a 4' wide set of stairs that goes up one side, turns 90 degrees and ends right near the center of the upstairs storage. I have a 18' wide x 14' high insulated overhead door with an electric door opener that automatically stops when it is up 8'. In order to open the door all the way, you have to hit the remote twice (quickly) or push the wall mounted button when it stops. Since 90% of the time, we are going in with personal vehicles or tractors with no cab, the 8' opening is plenty and saves on wear on the door/opener. I had my concrete floor done by a professional (wife's nephew). It is as smooth as glass! It is a little slippery when it's wet, but it sweeps nice and is really nice to move around on a roller stool or creeper. I absolutely love my shop! Of course, there are a few things I would do different if I was to do it over. Do a lot of planning and build it the way it works for you!!!
|
|
![]() |
|
B26240 ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 21 Nov 2009 Location: mn Points: 3860 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Make sure you have enough head room. Size always seems too small at some point so if possible plan so if needed you can add on in the future.
|
|
![]() |
|
jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24378 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
It's already too small !!
![]() 1) install PEX in the floor for radient heating. even if you don't get running today, it's SIMPLE to do in the future ! 2) insulate all exterior wall, cover with white tin or PVC panels,run electrical on 1by6 horizontal boards, in conduit NOT in the wall cavity 3) overhead steel beam, lengthwise if possible, GREAT for splitting tractor ! 4) 3 courses( 2 foot) high cinder block walls. Keeps wood off ground, easy cleanup from overspray when cleaning tractors and implements 5) run services(power,water, cable, etc) in conduit(4" drainage tile) from house 6) think about building orientation ! If solar MIGHT be an option face roof to capture nost of it(IE south). add windows on the south side,free light is nice ! 7) access above ceiling ? insatll on BOTH gabel ends 8) add mezzanines on both gable ends, above doors. add a hoist/crane to get stuff up/down safely 9) build a 'mechanical' room. put air compressor, furnace,water pump, etc. in there.make it big for EASY service of the 'stuff', 10) add motion detector light...so when you walk into shop it comes on.fumbling for the switch with grasy hands full of tools ain't fun... there's 10 ideas.. Jay oh yeah, it's STILL too small.....hehehe |
|
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
|
![]() |
|
victoryallis ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 15 Apr 2010 Location: Ludington mi Points: 2878 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Make sure your doors are BIG even bigger than you ever envision needing. Uncle bought a R62 5-6 years ago I asked will it fit in your polebarn he was positive guess what? In order to get it in he has to fold the bin auger down so during harvest season it stays in my polebarn. I added 5 foot to the sidewalls of a building at my place to make it into a shop should have added 6 foot since it’s to short for my big articulated tractor.
|
|
8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760
|
|
![]() |
|
wekracer ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Oct 2009 Location: Tebbetts, MO Points: 1587 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
If your going over 40’ wide consider all steel. At that point a steel building is cheaper than wood frame. We have 2 buildings from Harlan’s metal buildings in Versailles mo. Cheapest you will find and good quality.
|
|
![]() |
|
MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Put some anchors in floor. MACK
|
|
![]() |
|
Lonn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Назарово,Russia Points: 29792 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Go as big as you can afford ..................and I like Dave's round shop idea.
![]() |
|
-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
Wink I am a Russian Bot |
|
![]() |
|
JoeO(CMO) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Cent Missouri Points: 2694 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I built mine too small! Figure what you need, double that then double that!
I didn't think I would need to expand! Plan ahead! I didn't plan on expanding so I didn't position it where I could expand! So here are a few ideas to think about!
Edited by JoeO(CMO) - 17 Feb 2018 at 10:07am |
|
|
|
![]() |
|
Dakota Dave ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: ND Points: 3965 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I built a 30 x36 last year with 12 ft cieli vs it was as big as I could afford to finish and keep heater. I should have put floor heat in but didn't. IR tubes work almost as well and have faster recovery. I money wasn't a problem my work is 300x1100 feet with a 60 ft ceiling and overhead hoists. Separate tool rooms office and showers with a couple kitchenette. But I could afford to pay the
Edited by Dakota Dave - 17 Feb 2018 at 10:17am |
|
![]() |
|
oldways ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 25 Apr 2013 Location: west Ky Points: 509 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Like the others are saying make it as big and tall as you can afford. Maybe taller than you considered if you can't get a lot of square footage on your spot. That way you can have overhead storage. I built a 40x60 with 10 ft ceiling. I put a partition wall half way and only concreted half of it for a shop and I heat that part. Now its 60x60 and I'm getting ready to raise the ceilings in the shop part. Also installing a Jib Crane.
Edited by oldways - 17 Feb 2018 at 2:16pm |
|
1 Corinthians 1:18 1969-190xt-III. 1966 190xt gas. 1966 190xt Cab. 1948-G. 1937-WC unstyled. 1950-B. 1951-CA. 1966-D17-IV
|
|
![]() |
|
Ron(AB) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 27 Dec 2009 Location: Alberta Points: 959 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Led lights -retrofit 8ft fluorescent tubes - better light, no humming, work in all temps
8-10 ft long bolt bin and keep it organized White parts shelves - easier to see stuff Welder plug in at both ends of shop |
|
![]() |
|
spencefarm ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 29 Apr 2013 Location: Fairbury IL Points: 349 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Wow guys! This is great! Keep the ideas coming. I'm building it 30x40. I don't have anything huge. We have a saw mill and we are milling all the lumber for it out of old power poles.
|
|
![]() |
|
john(MI) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: SE MI Points: 9262 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Gotta have a high enough ceiling for the hoist. I think my friend says his is 14' or 16'. He can put a 3/4 ton quad cab high enough to work underneath comfortably.
|
|
D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
|
|
![]() |
|
oldways ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 25 Apr 2013 Location: west Ky Points: 509 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Wood stove. Gotta have a wood stove. Even if you have another source of heat. Built my out of a used fireplace insert. Put it up on some legs. Really nice when your in the shop long enough to build a fire.
|
|
1 Corinthians 1:18 1969-190xt-III. 1966 190xt gas. 1966 190xt Cab. 1948-G. 1937-WC unstyled. 1950-B. 1951-CA. 1966-D17-IV
|
|
![]() |
|
oldways ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 25 Apr 2013 Location: west Ky Points: 509 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Toilet and a sink also. Big deep mop sink.
|
|
1 Corinthians 1:18 1969-190xt-III. 1966 190xt gas. 1966 190xt Cab. 1948-G. 1937-WC unstyled. 1950-B. 1951-CA. 1966-D17-IV
|
|
![]() |
|
jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24378 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
don't use 8' tubes..PITA to buy($$),carry,store and install.... cheaper to buy 2 4' units these days...
I painted my waferboard ceiling primer white HUGE difference. THEN screwed 1by4 'strapping' where I wanted lights. Screwed 4' T8 units to them. These are plug in types ,so I have a 4by4 box with 2 'standard double recptacles' mounted on it, lights plug into it. Hard to explain BUT I can reposition the lights if necessary,unscrew straps,plug back in. Also by having 2 doubles, I have the option of plugging in a drill or trouble light. hmm my ceilings only 8' btw.still it'd be 'flexible' for you to... receptacle for welder and air compressor are the same type(welder),allows welder to be moved around... besure floor drains OUT the garage !! mine comes in(NOT my fault !!) all receptacles on wall are 'double doubles'( 4 things can plug in). do same in 'mechanical room' you need it for charging stations. put GFCIs at EACH corner of the building,and 1/2 way down. double the roof venting ! I put 5 vents,roof guy said 3 was correct but ttic gets hotter than the proverbial witches...... roof trusses will NOT support 'storge weight' !! either buy correct($$) trusses or build mezzanines. Mezzaines do allow free,easy, SAFE access to attic space. pull CAT5 aka Ethernet cable from house. Gives you faster internet to view the forum as well as nifty security cameras. Pull a 2nd for alarm system and landline. consider a forklift to get stuff up to mezzanine or an elevator. add a sheet of polycarb or plexi to all windows to protect the real windows from welding splatter and grinder grit. I lost 3 windows before I got smart... instal a 'fastpak' or whatever the bix box stores call a 'whole house' electrical panel. It'll be the box, 100A main, places for 24 brkrs and the minimum breakers for a house (stove,dryer,3 splits, several 15A). Split the lighting onto 2 or more breakers and don't power equipment off them.It's embarassing to tell someone you tripped over the cooler when the drill blew the brkr taht all the lights are on...THAT's how you broke your elbow.... |
|
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
|
![]() |
|
oldways ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 25 Apr 2013 Location: west Ky Points: 509 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I put metal on the inside walls in the shop area to protect against fire. Got a bunch of 8 ft sheets of white metal cheap so they don't go all way to the ceiling but still protects. Also before I covered the walls with metal I put 4x8 sheets of 1/2 styrofoam with the silver coating facing in. Did the ceiling in that as well. Really reflects the light back. Later when I got some more money I put fiberglass insulation in the attic.
|
|
1 Corinthians 1:18 1969-190xt-III. 1966 190xt gas. 1966 190xt Cab. 1948-G. 1937-WC unstyled. 1950-B. 1951-CA. 1966-D17-IV
|
|
![]() |
|
*DougW ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Jun 2017 Location: Lancaster PA. Points: 75 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Built shop 4 years ago with additional storage beside. Plenty of light with multiple switches, no need to light a bunch just to retrieve a tool or bolt. Smooth floor, sweeps easy and a drain, even if it just drains to surface outside. Floor heat is nice if you work inside alot but takes a day to warm up, otherwise use propane tube heater on ceiling. Quiet,efficient, I like mine. Insulate. I got wet cellulose shot in walls. Mice Don't bother it and is almost as good as foam, and cheaper. I put 4 residential paddle fans on ceiling. Makes nice air movement in summer. Doors can't be big enough. I put a 24 foot insulated overhead in. Also put a 16 foot slider on wall between shop and storage. This is nice to move equipment back and forth without dealing with weather. Also allows room for extra large projects. Floor anchors. Took a 6 inch square tube, stand on end and drill hole for 1.25 rod with a large ring attached. Pour into cement,keep top even with floor and make metal lid. This allows smooth floor a no dirt catcher, need at least four. Gib crane is nice. Hot water and slop sink is very handy, almost a necessity. Plenty of electrical recepticles on multiple circuits. I put white metal on ceiling and 7/16 osb on walls but leave a dime thickness between joints for humidity expansion, paint it white before installation. Makes for a bright workshop and wood absorbs sound. Sparks could be a concern, depending on what you do. Or put tin on bottom 6 feet. Trusses overhang door by 4 feet, keeps weather off and out of doorway. It was fun designing for my needs and makes work more enjoyable. Go for it!!
|
|
![]() |
|
jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24378 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
re: outside doors...
years ago saw on a Canadian Farm TV Show, they mounted the door at an angle, maybe 15 degrees outward. Farmer said it eliminated a 'frozen' door when snow/ice came.Bottom of door was maybe 2' out. Door was 24' wide THAT I remember cause it was HUGE though combine JUST fit through... If you need permits, arrange building so you can add on the back side without 'them' noticing it....hehehe....cause we all know, 2-4 years from now, you will be making it bigger... |
|
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
|
![]() |
|
Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8435 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Wow! Lots of great ideas here on buildings! I may have to come back to this and review it too!
I need storage and a work shop/ paint area. Just dreaming! Regards, Chris
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
![]() |
|
Gary Burnett ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Virginia Points: 3019 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I'm getting ready to put up a shop and the biggest mistake I see people have made is building their shop too big to just work on something they also use it for storage.Once its used for storage it seems the stored stuff eventually pushes the shop stuff out the door.Makes no since to try to heat a few tractors just sitting around and a bunch of parts
and storage type buildings can be put up a whole lot cheaper than more square footage in a shop.For my needs I'm thinking a 30' wide by 40' deep 100% metal building.It'll be enough space to have one long term project and then have room for one more working stall to do relatively quick jobs and related tools,air compressor,welders etc. Also in case of a fire having two totally separate buildings for storage and shop will at least save one or the other. |
|
![]() |
|
Gary Burnett ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Virginia Points: 3019 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Should be sense not since
|
|
![]() |
|
Ted J ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Jul 2010 Location: La Crosse, WI Points: 18923 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Put shelving on one end for pieces.
Shelving where you can store bigger pieces of implements. Kind of like stacking, disk on the bottom, now the back blade and the 3 or 4 bottom plow next up. Helps to have a fork lift! Build parts bins. x2 on an overhead I-beam. it's a MUST. 6" concrete reinforced floor, with 1.5" per 10' slope toward the center. That way you can shovel or squeegee out the ends. As far as heating, I'd build an office area where you can have heat in there always with shut offs to the rest of the barn. Turn on areas where you'll need it when you're working in that area. Room for file cabinets for all the manuals you'll acquire in the years ahead... You've got everything else up above, BUT,,,,, ALREADY,,,,,,,, it's not BIG enough. I built mine 36x72 and I wish I had gone at LEAST 40x100. |
|
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
|
![]() |
|
Tom6070 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Kendallville IN Points: 53 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Lots of good ideas, but I think Gary is right. Work space and storage should be in different buildings. I don't like to weld and grind where all the expensive stuff is. Sure I have insurance, but I have little faith in it. Never good to have all the eggs in one basket, though that's the trend these days.
|
|
![]() |
Post Reply ![]() |
Page 12> |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions ![]() You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |