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Hubnut 
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Location: Gainesville, FL
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 Topic: Resto B with Woods (Update 1 October)
Posted: 03 Sep 2016 at 6:07pm |
This little old B (named Flavia) is in such fine shape I decided to really restore her. The tin on this old tractor is the best I've ever seen myself. I started pulling pieces off and taking them for sandblasting. I've got some 5 lug wheels to replace the old 38 ones. I think I'm even going to spring for new tires. She's really nice. Well, hope ya'll don't mind seeing another B build. I even plan to restore the mower deck. Man that thing is heavy! Steve Starting condition--runs like a dream and pops off with one crank.  Hood, primed after blasting  Grill  mower deck (need a source for decals) Any suggestions?  Partially stripped.  Radiator boiled out and checked for leaks.  Parts for the blaster 
Edited by Hubnut - 01 Oct 2016 at 3:27pm
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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CrestonM
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Location: Oklahoma
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Posted: 03 Sep 2016 at 6:14pm |
I don't mind seeing another B build. I could look at pics all day! I know it will turn out great, like all your projects!
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Hubnut
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Location: Gainesville, FL
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Posted: 03 Sep 2016 at 6:29pm |
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Thanks Creston. I'd like to try a Gleaner, but don't have room! I know they are your favorite.
STeve
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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Bill Long
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Bel Air, MD
Points: 4556
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Posted: 03 Sep 2016 at 8:18pm |
That is one really good looking B. I can only look forward to the restoration job and find it hard to believe it will even look better. Thank you for taking such good care of my favorite. Good Luck! Bill Long
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CrestonM
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Location: Oklahoma
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Posted: 03 Sep 2016 at 9:10pm |
 Hubnut wrote:
Thanks Creston. I'd like to try a Gleaner, but don't have room! I know they are your favorite.
STeve
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Yep! Actually, I much prefer working on combines over tractors. Even though there are more parts to them. Lol
I like working on tractors too, but usually the only time I work on mine is when I do like you're doing. Rebuilding engines, etc. I was excited to rebuild my 8N so I could call myself a "real" mechanic, and while it wasn't extremely hard, it was a little challenging. I decided after that I'd just pay an expert who has all the right tools and know-how to rebuild any engine I needed rebuilt. However, a couple years later (this spring) I decided to rebuild my B (well, not really rebuild, more like "freshen up". Pistons, and a valve job). However, it turned into a little more than that. It runs good now and has more power than it did before, but it has even lower oil pressure. Great. I didn't even work on the pump. Phffft.
I guess to sum that up into one sentence, I like to work on tractors, and it makes me really happy when I'm through and I get to see the results of my hard work, but I simply don't have enough know-how and all the special tools needed (but mostly know-how) to do everything 100% correct. That's why I like my pull-type combines better. It's something I know how to do, and I'm very good at it.  Not much special knowledge or tools needed.
It's on my list of things to do to learn everything there is to know about engine building, so someday I can rebuild an engine, and know exactly what I'm doing throughout the whole process, and end up with an engine that's like-new.
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Hubnut
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Joined: 30 Jul 2014
Location: Gainesville, FL
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Posted: 11 Sep 2016 at 5:33pm |
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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Dan73
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Joined: 04 Jun 2015
Location: United States
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Posted: 11 Sep 2016 at 5:53pm |
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By the looks of the finished products I think you are getting pretty good at painting. Pretty soon you will have to move on to something else though there won't be any b or c tractors near you needing restoration. ...
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Hubnut
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Location: Gainesville, FL
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Posted: 11 Sep 2016 at 8:09pm |
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Thanks Dan. The paint on the tractor isn't too bad, but on the tin, it really sucks. It's full of drips. Plenty of B's and C's out there!
Steve
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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TMiller/NC
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Lenoir, NC
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Posted: 11 Sep 2016 at 8:23pm |
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Hubnut, I know the feeling about painting, painted sheet metal 4 times on CA I'm working on, gave up and had it done. Rim
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CrestonM
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Location: Oklahoma
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Posted: 11 Sep 2016 at 8:59pm |
Hubnut wrote:
Thanks Dan. The paint on the tractor isn't too bad, but on the tin, it really sucks. It's full of drips. Plenty of B's and C's out there!
Steve
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Just make sure the paint isn't glossy and you can call it an accurate restoration! They came with not-so-shiny paint and runs from the factory, from what I've seen/been told.
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steve(ill)
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Location: illinois
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Posted: 11 Sep 2016 at 9:11pm |
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Looks great from here Hubnut.... what are you using for paint ? What kind of gun, siphon or gravity ? Practice makes perfect . Nobody is great the first few times.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Hubnut
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Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 8:17pm |
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Steve,
I used the AC orange from Tractor Supply. Majic is the brand. I couldn't get it out of my gun without thinning it. It was just shooting blobs. So, I thinned it with Mineral Spirits. I guess I should have used something with a higher vapor pressure, like hexanes? It looks pretty good on the tractor, but the tin pieces, hood, nose, and fenders, are really screwed up. It's on too thick. I hope it cures enough so I can sand out the DRIPS and topcoat it. Right now, it's still kind of soft, like wax.
Steve
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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steve(ill)
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Location: illinois
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Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 8:38pm |
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acrylic enamels need a hardener to dry quick... MOST enamels are alkyln, and I believe the Majic is in that category... Some Tractor Sypplys sell a " hardener" for the alkyln that makes it setup in a couple hours.. Normal alkylns like you buy at Tractor Supply or hardware store can setup to touch in 24 hours, but you can still dig your finger nails into it a week later... It might take 2-3 months to really dry hard. Don't sand it now, it will really screw it up ............ and I agree, most paints are not ready to shoot from the can. Most are thinned with 50% thinner, some need 100% thinned to spray good. Practice on the side of a 55 gallon barrel for correct mix.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Hubnut
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Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 8:54pm |
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Thanks Steve. I've used other paints without this issue. This is the first time with the TS brand. I also got in a hurry--which is a no no when painting. I'll wait until she hardens and work out the problems. Is there an off the shelf PO color I can buy that might be better?
Thanks.
Steve
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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CrestonM
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Location: Oklahoma
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Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 9:00pm |
Honestly, I only use TSC paint for painting plow shares to keep them from rusting. I don't trust it for anything "good" because they fade terribly, from what I've heard. I painted a Ford 3pt scoop (Just the inside of t he bucket) and it's now pink (several years later). I did mix some hardener in there, too.
I'd say anything but alkyd is good, but I'm no paint expert. However alkd is pretty much all you'll find at farm stores. A friend painted a D17 with Ace hardware paint, and it's alkyd, but it has held up really well over the last 4 or 5 years. No fading or chalkiness yet.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 9:03pm |
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I have use automotive acrylic enamel most of the time. Local body shop will mix the PO color... have not bought any for 8 years... it was expensive then... I have used the Tractor Supply paint on a couple garden tractors. I bought the small bottle of hardener that they sold with it.. didn't know you could put hardener in alkylid paint, but it worked good... Normally I try to go by the mix on the can, but their recommendations are not always good. Mix 50% thinner, then shoot the side of a barrel and see how it goes. If it is spitting or stringy, you need more thinner. I always try to use enamel reducer because you can match it to the ambient temp.. Mineral spirits is too generic. Regular reducer can be purchased for 60 - 80 - 100 degree ambient... different evaporation rates. The stuff at the local hardware store is OK if your about 75-80 ambient.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Hubnut
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Posted: 14 Sep 2016 at 7:03pm |
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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Bill Long
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Location: Bel Air, MD
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Posted: 14 Sep 2016 at 7:33pm |
What a GREAT JOB you are doing. As you can imagine I can NEVER get enough B rebuilds. I LOVE the turf tires. We put them on the B's we sold to golf courses. In fact my father was the first getting farm tractors on the golf courses in our area of Maryland. Soon after Worthington, and other lawn companies came out with special made golf tractors. Thanks again for taking such good care of my favorite. Good Luck! Bill Long |
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Ken in Texas
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 8:09am |
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I see you always doing stuff first class. Why did you go to TSC and by the cheap alkyd oil wrong shade of Orange to paint some of the best sheet metal on the planet. This old B deserved much better than that.
All is not lost. PPG OMNI Single stage AU tinted PO#1 60080 can be painted over well cured sanded smooth Alkyd Enamel before you apply decals. And Please LEAVE THE B OFF the grill shell..
I'm still workin on finding you a tall seat frame fine enough for this job. Maybe you better put the word out you need one FAST so the paint will be dry enough to sit on.
Edited by Ken in Texas - 23 Sep 2016 at 4:45pm
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GregLawlerMinn
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 11:34am |
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Like what you are doing. You will end up with a much better mower than most of what is available...and it will look great.
I think Woods still offers the decals for the L306 mower check out your dealer...or the Woods Website.
Thanks for sharing
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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Hubnut
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 6:27pm |
TMiller/NC wrote:
Hubnut, I know the feeling about painting, painted sheet metal 4 times on CA I'm working on, gave up and had it done. Rim
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Smart man. I wish I'd done this. I really hate painting.
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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Hubnut
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Joined: 30 Jul 2014
Location: Gainesville, FL
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 6:28pm |
GregLawlerMinn wrote:
Like what you are doing. You will end up with a much better mower than most of what is available...and it will look great.
I think Woods still offers the decals for the L306 mower check out your dealer...or the Woods Website.
Thanks for sharing |
Greg, I've been trying to find the decals, but haven't had luck. I will call Woods tomorrow. Steve
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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Hubnut
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Location: Gainesville, FL
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 6:30pm |
Ken in Texas wrote:
I see you always doing stuff first class. Why did you go to TSC and by the cheap alkyd oil wrong shade of Orange to paint some of the best sheet metal on the planet. This old B deserved mush better than that.
All is not lost. PPG OMNI Single stage AU tinted PO#1 60080 can be painted over well cured sanded smooth Alkyd Enamel before yo apply decals. And Please LEAVE THE B OFF the grill shell..
I'm still workin on finding you a tall seat frame fine enough for this job. Maybe you better put the word out you need one FAST so the paint will be dry enough to sit on. |
Thanks Kenny. Frankly, even though I wear proper respiratory protection and eye protection when painting, the isocyanates in the one stage paints (and hardeners) scare me a bit. If I have to repaint in another 5 years because I used alkyd--that's okay.
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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Hubnut
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Joined: 30 Jul 2014
Location: Gainesville, FL
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 6:31pm |
Bill Long wrote:
What a GREAT JOB you are doing. As you can imagine I can NEVER get enough B rebuilds.I LOVE the turf tires. We put them on the B's we sold to golf courses. In fact my father was the first getting farm tractors on the golf courses in our area of Maryland. Soon after Worthington, and other lawn companies came out with special made golf tractors. Thanks again for taking such good care of my favorite. Good Luck! Bill Long |
Thanks Bill. I love the turfs too! They are different and I haven't seen a B with them yet. Steve
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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Hubnut
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Joined: 30 Jul 2014
Location: Gainesville, FL
Points: 1817
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Posted: 17 Sep 2016 at 6:42pm |
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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Dan73
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Posted: 17 Sep 2016 at 6:45pm |
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Steve I think that paint looks good. I think it is a case of us being our own worst critics and only seeing the defects in our work. You should be proud of how nice your tractors look.
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Hubnut
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Posted: 17 Sep 2016 at 6:51pm |
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Dan,
Thanks man. You're right. It's not perfect, but it's not horrible either.
Steve
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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Hubnut
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Posted: 22 Sep 2016 at 6:44pm |
The Woods deck was in pretty good shape, but I went ahead and blasted it.  
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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Dan73
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Posted: 23 Sep 2016 at 6:08am |
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Steve I think you need a new project with that deck. I keep wondering if you can lower a B and still put a mower deck under it. If you could it would be such a cool lawn mower.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 23 Sep 2016 at 8:24am |
I have a B with finals turned 90 degres. Has a 72 inch BOLTON mower under it. Drives with belt to rear angle drive box that is shaft driven off PTO.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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