Finally got my WC, some assembly required......

Let me know if you come up short on parts for that. I have a few laying in the weeds that look just like that one!

I myself would not skip the primer. A much cheaper way to fill tiny pits than the final coat.

Edited by alleyyooper - 06 Sep 2017 at 7:19pm

Finished disassembly,

Great story so far, and it certainly has changed my perspective on how bad a tractor can be to restore back to completely operational again. I can't wait to see it back in Persian Orange. Your son being involved is a great thing too, I was lucky enough to be introduced to the hobby by my grandfather and some of my fondest memories of him are up to my elbows in dirt and grease helping restore tractors!

Marv, you  work  is  just  great, we've talked over the years  and i haven't  kept up lately.  

You do great work. Stuff I can only wish I was capable of.

Time to drag this topic up out of the archives!

Edited by littlemarv - 27 Aug 2017 at 7:03pm

The seat is offset to the right as well, more weight on that right wheel.

I bought these 12.4 X 28's cheap just to roll the tractor around on for now. When I got them, one was completely full of fluid, like someone laid it down and filled it. The other was filled to the bottom of the rim. The completely filled tire is on the right, the pretty much empty one on the left. I removed the valve stem core on the right tire and drained it down to the correct level, the top of the rim. But I want to even out the tires. I'm not going to fill them, but I'd like to even out the ballast a little.

So, I jacked up the left side and set on blocks so the tire was sitting on the floor, but not bearing any weight. Took the valve stem core out, and put the valve stem near the top. Slipped on a piece of 3/8" hose.





Jacked up the right wheel. Turned the valve stem to the top and pulled the core. Pumped the tire up to 20 psi, pulled the air chuck off, slipped the hose on going to the empty tire. Turn the wheel so the valve stem is below the fluid. The 20 psi pushes the fluid over into the other tire.




You can hear the fluid moving, and when it stops, you roll the right tire back up, remove the hose, let the pressure out of the left tire, and do it again. Did it four or five times, and got the two tires pretty close. Left a hair more in the furrow tire for plowing. Rolled the tractor outside, and rinsed everything off. It is a little messy doing it this way, but the price was right.

A while back, I got a #1 single bottom plow cheap off of Craigslist. Hauled it up to my dads, and I told him I needed to come up with the D ring for the hitch. He said wait here a minute. Came out of the shed and handed me one. I lived with the man for eighteen years and he's still pulling stuff out of that shed that I've never seen!

Well, before I even got this WC, I found a #2 14 on Craigslist. Can't pass that up, it will be perfect for this tractor. Had to weld the one handle back together, other than that, just changed all the grease zerks and greased it.



So, now I have two plows and only one hitch. Can't be having that, so I copied it.





I left that extra hitch on for now, it makes a handy step. But it will have to go if I'm going to put the toolbox back where it belongs.


SO, that's pretty much it for now. I am going to take the rig up to my dads and plow some corn stubble this fall, once the renters get it off. The way its been raining this summer, they should be able to get in the field oh, say, February or so. I figure if I haul some firewood and do a little light plowing, that should break in the motor. Need to retorque the head as well. I plan on taking off the fenders and taking them inside this winter and learn a little about body work. Finish repairing the front spoke wheels, and get some new rubber all the way around. Then, paint next year. I just am not going to get it done this fall anymore. But, I need to be sure to get this tractor painted before I start any other projects. I have enough half finished projects around to attest to that. (unless I happen to find a CA narrow front that doesn't run.....)

ANYWAYS, I want to thank everyone who was involved in this project, both on this forum and elsewhere. This project was all your guys's just about as much as mine. I hope you learned something along the way, I know I sure did. Thanks for putting up with my rambling and endless questions. This tractor restoring is addictive, that's for sure. I can't wait till my kids are a little older, I have a B-1 garden tractor sitting in the shed for their first project.

I will bring this topic back up from time to time as I work with it this fall, and work on smaller items over the winter. Then, next spring, up goes the 10' by 20' paint booth in the backyard!













Always liked the Allis Chalmers real big out front. Now I have one in the stable!



Thank you all again.

Edited by littlemarv - 27 Aug 2017 at 4:45pm

Oh, I've got two projects in mind already, and I'm not even done with this one! Just gotta decide which one I want first, or which one I stumble across first. The old brain is always going faster than the wallet!

http://www.bellautomotive.com/Farm-Boot-Patch-4-5-inches-X-5-5-inches-p/22-5-08793-m.htm

The rims can be fixed alot of posts in here about rebuilding a rim. A as to the tires that is tricky. We ran tires with big cracks for years on an ih 986 which is a 100 Hp tractor the rears where cracked right through the tire my uncle always said they where not loaded so just keep them with enough air that the crack was closed and the ties stood up. It worked for probably a decade of active farming that tractor was used everyday like that. There is also a patch you can put on the inside of a sidewall. That is very old school not sure where you could get the side wall patch but until the tractor is finished I would leave the old tires and fix the axle seals. If the tire are not loaded it is not a big deal to remove them later.
But I would hold off on new rubber till after painting for sure nothing worse then the look of over spray on you new experience rubber.

Edited by Dan73 - 30 Aug 2016 at 5:29am

Adjust the versatile shaft bearing play by turning the large nut on the bottom of the bolster in. It may be all you need. The Service Manual explains this adjustment.

But does it have an electric start with a push button or crank start. I was thinking electric start and replacing a push button with a key.

Dan73 wrote: I would stick a key switch on it so you can pull the key. It will go a long way with any trouble you might find yourself in if someone takes it for a joy ride. Insurance companies and Lawyers love to ask if you left the key in it is hard to say you removed it if it doesn't have one.

I have never seen a key switch with a normally closed contact. The mag has to be grounded to not work