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favorite thread loosenerupper

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LouSWPA View Drop Down
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    Posted: 06 Jun 2012 at 8:24pm
OK, I remember discussion week or two ago about penetrating stuff. I been working on two slack adjuster screws for about a week.......here and there. I got one loose tonight.
Pics above of screw, on left is end with Kroil treatment, on right, heat and wax. the kroil never made it past the first half thread, the wax about 2-3 threads. In the end, I won with heat, lots of BFH, and pipe wrench with four foot cheater!




I think I'm going to take the stub in first pic, weld a flange on it, and use a rear lift cylinder from a WD, weld a flange on it, to mate to the stub and try to make a hydraulic slack adjuster, using grease. Any thoughts?


the next one to get apart.




Edited by LouSWPA - 06 Jun 2012 at 8:55pm
I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2012 at 8:36pm
Lou, are you worried on what's left of the paint on it?   If it were me, I would make up a batch of electrolysis juice and dip it for a couple days hooked up to a battery charger.   there's alot of guys that have done things that way and loosened them up by hand once they were done.   Don't know if it would work on something that big but I don't see why not.   Best part is it works while you're gone doing other things.  
1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2012 at 8:37pm
Looks like a good place for some stainless all thread. If you use a cylinder, would you tighten them with full hydraulic pressure or would you snug em up and close an inline valve ?


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 06 Jun 2012 at 8:40pm
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LouSWPA View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LouSWPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2012 at 8:59pm
Originally posted by ChuckLuedtkeSEWI ChuckLuedtkeSEWI wrote:

Lou, are you worried on what's left of the paint on it?   If it were me, I would make up a batch of electrolysis juice and dip it for a couple days hooked up to a battery charger.   there's alot of guys that have done things that way and loosened them up by hand once they were done.   Don't know if it would work on something that big but I don't see why not.   Best part is it works while you're gone doing other things.  

What paint? LOL

Actually, the one on the bottom was in a electrolysis tank for about two weeks.......I couldn't tell much difference, but I think it was under powered
I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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LouSWPA View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LouSWPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2012 at 9:00pm
Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:

Looks like a good place for some stainless all thread. If you use a cylinder, would you tighten them with full hydraulic pressure or would you snug em up and close an inline valve ?

I don't have a lot of good thread on either of the screws I have, so i suspect most of the slack will be taken up by pumping grease into the cylinder with a grease gun
I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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Dakota Dave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dakota Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2012 at 9:03pm
You just pump grease into the cylinder. when you diconnect the grease gun it locks the grease in and holds it in place. when you want to retract it take the grease fitting out and compress it the grease will come back out. If I rember right we chained the  yoke and track near the bull gear and backed up slightly grease sprayed out and shot everywhere. That was 35 years ago so my memory could be slightly wrong.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve-Ohio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2012 at 9:05pm
Interesting, thanks for posting.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wkpoor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2012 at 9:08pm
My favorite is the blue tip wrench.
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EricTn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EricTn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2012 at 9:16pm
What ever you do, don't take the grease fitting out if there is the least bit of pressure on the front idler. The grease fitting can become a lethal projectile (bullet) with any pressure on the cylinder. That is why Cat's have release valves on the track adjuster cylinders.
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Leonard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Leonard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2012 at 9:52pm
Lou try the Mopar stuff. It really works and penetrates deep.  Have used it on a bunch of stuff that would normally broken when taking apart.

Leonard
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David G. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David G. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2012 at 10:18pm
I remember the penetrating oil post the other day where someone brought up acetone and ATF 50/50 mixture.I mixed up a quart batch today and will try it in the future to see how it works.
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