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F-350 rear axle

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LouSWPA View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LouSWPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: F-350 rear axle
    Posted: 17 Jun 2010 at 5:15pm
I have a 2000 F 350 p/u, that I want to put a flat bed on and convert to dually. Can I convert the origional axle or do I need to replace it? if I can convert it, what needs to be done?
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DMiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2010 at 7:27pm
You can install Ford style dual wheels directly to the hubs on this model; in addition if you have a good parts man at the nearest dealer he can arrange the correct front hub assemblies to convert to duals style rims, I have done this many times on Ford, GM and Dodge with Ford being the easier conversion as the axle type and hub assemblies don't change.  I would consider waiting until a bearing repair to swap front hubs if looking to spare some change but two spares sucks.

There is one drawback, the axle width from outside of one rear wheel to the other will be narrower than a conventional dually; that model truck has approximately a 6" wider foot print for inner fender clearance for the inner dual.  Same hubs, same brakes, same everything except the main tube frame and the axle shafts.
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LouSWPA View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LouSWPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2010 at 9:27pm
Originally posted by DMiller DMiller wrote:

You can install Ford style dual wheels directly to the hubs on this model; in addition if you have a good parts man at the nearest dealer he can arrange the correct front hub assemblies to convert to duals style rims, I have done this many times on Ford, GM and Dodge with Ford being the easier conversion as the axle type and hub assemblies don't change.  I would consider waiting until a bearing repair to swap front hubs if looking to spare some change but two spares sucks.

There is one drawback, the axle width from outside of one rear wheel to the other will be narrower than a conventional dually; that model truck has approximately a 6" wider foot print for inner fender clearance for the inner dual.  Same hubs, same brakes, same everything except the main tube frame and the axle shafts.
Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SHAMELESS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2010 at 11:48pm
lou...watcha gonna haul with that there flatbed?
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DMiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jun 2010 at 2:34am
Lou,when you buy the wheels make sure you buy new Ford lug nuts and only Ford based rims for duals for your model year, the '99 and newer as my F250 use a rim style called a center guided or aligned so the lugs do not align the wheel just retain it to the hub; the dually rims take a slightly different variety to  hold them properly as a pair and they get torqued to 125#.  The nuts will have a free spinning enlarged flange washer built to the nut for expanded area on the wheel.

At every removal of a wheel on mine I shine up the alignment region on the hub so I can get them back off easier, I use 180-240 grit emory paper(dependent on the ease of removal) from 1" wide rolls I buy from a local hardware.  Do not ever use anti-sieze or lube on the lugs or hub centers, is a recipe for disaster if the wheels get to moving around.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jun 2010 at 8:59am
im suprised to hear you say that about the anti- sieze DMiller. I have always cleaned the center bore of the rim and put a small dab on the center and the studs.  Been doing it for 30 years and continued when i got the center pilot type rums with flat washer nuts. ??
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimmiesap Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jun 2010 at 10:52am
dont forget to up the springs to heavy duty
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dadsdozerhd5b View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dadsdozerhd5b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jun 2010 at 3:59pm
i agree with steve, never had a problem with never-sieze and will continue to use it. guys at work hate me for it when they get it all over their hands and then thank me when the bolt comes out easily or the aluminum wheel comes right off. electrolysis is a bad thing, aluminum and steel. i like the spray never-seize, goes in thinner and better coverage. i use it to help seal gaskets also. holds them in place and they come right off next time you need to change them.
HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SHAMELESS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jun 2010 at 9:41pm
hmmmm...10 year old truck that is o-k the way it is...think maybe it would be cheaper o just go buy one already built that way! (just my thought)
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LouSWPA View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LouSWPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2010 at 11:02pm
The reason for considering the dualie flat bed is because the existing bed is shot. I had a brand new takeoff bet from a conversion company, but sold it. My thinking is, the truck has seen some hard use, and I think a flatbed would hold up better, appearance wise. So, I then thought, if I'm going to a flatbed, why not go to dualies. it already has one ton truck springs on the back. Plus, I've been told that a dualie setup will tow a trailer nicer. Anyways that's my thinking.
I was looking to buy a totaled truck to salvage the bed and wheels, etc
 Thanks guys for all the input


Edited by LouSWPA - 20 Jun 2010 at 11:03pm
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JohnCO View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JohnCO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jun 2010 at 12:21am
Over 40 years ago I took auto body and fender repair while in High School.  The instructor said NEVER reuse wheels and tires from a total.  They may look ok but will more then likely not hold up.  I have no first hand experience so take it with a grain of graphite!
"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jun 2010 at 11:48am
Never has been a 'good to use' for anti-sieze on lugs, you want them dry but clean so they will remain tight, anti sieze will allow them to work on the studs and eventually back off. 
 
The service manuals will have it highlighted as to 'not to use' for lug nuts.  Owners manuals state the same warning with many insurers not covering damages if a wheels falls away and they find the stuff on the studs.  I was a mechanic for over 25 years, we were warned in trade school to never ever use it on lugs in the first practical classes when I was starting out.


Edited by DMiller - 21 Jun 2010 at 11:50am
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dadsdozerhd5b View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dadsdozerhd5b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jun 2010 at 4:46am
i have been turning wrenches for over 25 yrs now and have never had a lug loosen up using neverseize. i am going to check my service manuals as i have heard of the do not use before but also went with my experience that i want it to come off when i want it to so i use it. new aluminum rims against steel centers and a few years of road salt means they are on there. have had a few i needed a jack on the rim to get them off. not saying anyone is wrong, just my experience. i use it sparingly.
HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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