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Engine Sludge |
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cooz65 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 29 Jun 2020 Location: Minnesota Points: 11 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 18 Jul 2020 at 10:35am |
I just dropped the oil pan on my WD to find a couple cups of sludge built up in the bottom of it. After getting it from my father-in-law he swears it has only ran non-detergent oil in it which would make sense after seeing it. The engine block itself is surprisingly clean with only minor carbon build up. I plan on taking off the valve cover and cleaning that as well. I'm wondering if I should be concerned at all with the screen on the bottom of the oil pickup. That had to be sitting in all that sludge and couldn't be good for it. I'm not even sure if that screen comes off, or if you have to replace the whole pump? Also, after I get all the sludge cleaned up, thoughts on switching to a conventional motor oil? Up here in Minnesota I'd like to be able to run a 10w30. Thanks!
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Ed (Ont) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Nov 2009 Location: New Lowell, Ont Points: 1419 |
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That is why you use a modern oil in these units. I use 5w40 in my WD45 all year round. Great starts in winter and it is cold up here in Canada. I'm near Barrie, Ont so lots of cold weather. Use whatever you prefer 10-30 or even 15-40. 15-40 may be a bit harder to start in winter. I'm sure the firestorm will start as everyone has different opinion. LOL.
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Boss Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 03 Mar 2018 Location: Greenleaf, WI Points: 617 |
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Been told for years that if it has a filter use conventional motor oil. Non-detergent is meant for engines with no filter. I dont remember if there is a cotter pin or bolt that holds the screen and tube to the pump. Would have to remove the screen and tube as an assemble and flush by pouring solvent, gas, mineral spirits down the tube.
Edited by Boss Man - 18 Jul 2020 at 1:26pm |
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Brian G. NY ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: 12194 Points: 2256 |
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I agree, take the screen/tube ass'y. off to clean. I would place in a pan big enuff to hold the whole thing and let it soak for awhile.....then blow out with compressed air. It's been a long time since I've seen sludge like that. Was common back in the day.
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AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5132 |
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I highly recommend a can of Seafoam in he crank case after you put the pan back on. It will clean all the carbon and sludge up. Just follow the instructions on the can. An amazing product that will clean the inside of the engine and anywhere oil goes. Rings,valves etc...
Just dont be shocked how black your oil will be in a half hour of run time. That just means its cleaning that nasty junk out of your engine. If its really bad you may have to do it twice. |
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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cooz65 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 29 Jun 2020 Location: Minnesota Points: 11 |
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I took the valve cover off this afternoon and found quite a bit of buildup on the valves. I've vacuumed up as much as I can. Taking a pick with the vacuum right by it, I felt like a dentist! Would any of you have any concern running conventional oil nowadays after getting this all cleaned out? Hopefully nothing else would get dislodged and plug anything up. I'm going to look into running that seafoam through for a little bit and try to get whatever I might have missed.
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Boss Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 03 Mar 2018 Location: Greenleaf, WI Points: 617 |
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I would run conventional, but change the oil and filter sooner the first couple of times. Running the sea foam will speed up the process. With the sea foam you have to change oil sooner because of the crap it loosens up.
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AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5132 |
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Walmart or any auto parts store should carry Seafoam. Can be used in your fuel tank as well. I use it in my older vehicles to clean the o2 sensors when the check engine light comes on because of this darn 10% ethonal fuel when my wife cant find ethonal free. Within 50 miles of driving light goes off. Regular use of it will keep the light off.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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GARY(OH/IN) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 19 May 2010 Location: Findlay,Ohio Points: 917 |
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I keep Seafoam on the truck. If it's stars running rough it gets a dose.
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Larry Miller ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 21 Nov 2009 Location: NWIL Points: 901 |
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I just dropped the pan off a WD last week. The sludge was so thick it had sucked the oil pump screen up around the bolts and it was puckered in every way it could. You can remove that screen and if carful get it back in shape. - wire around in a groove - if carful you can reuse the wire or can also make another one.
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I used to be young and stupid, now I am not young anymore.
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Phil48ACWC ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Jan 2013 Location: Vermont Points: 296 |
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Pull the push rod cover plate on the opposite side of the carburetor and clean that area of also.
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85696 |
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remember the B-C motor is an oil FILTER BYPASS system.. You dont loose oil pressure if it plugs up.. You actually GAIN oil pressure and flow.. Monitor the oil color and FLOATING CRUD on the dip stick after installing new oil.. After several hours of use, you can drain the oil if it looks BLACK and has CRUD... You will know more AFTER draining it.. You can strain it and reinstall, or best to just put in new.. Just get the cheapest 10w 30 oil the have at Wal Mart for the FLUSH...... Changing the oil filter might be a good idea after a while. I might not change it the FIRST FLUSH as it will continue to pickup CRUD and will NOT REDUCE OIL FLOW to the bearings.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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