D17 WITH 500 LOADER QUESTION

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   DOES ANY ONE HAVE PICTURES OF HOW YOUR LOADER FRAME IS ATTACHED AT THE REAR (TO THE AXLE ) OR WHERE EVER BACK THERE.
DAD HAS A D17 SERIES 4 WITH FACTORY 3-POINT AND A ALLIS 500 LOADER, BUT SOME ONE COBBLED THE BACK HALF TO ATTACH IT TO THE REAR AXLE HOUSING, THEY WENT AS FAR AS TO WELD SOME HOME MADE U-BOLTS TO THE AXLE HOUSING. 
I PULLED THE LOADER OFF TODAY TO FIX THE P.T.O. LEVER ( I THINK THE ROLL PIN BROKE INSIDE AND TO REPLACE THE FRONT TIMING COVER. (SOME OF THE BOLTS WERE LOOSE AND THAT CAUSED THE COVER TO CRACK.

ANY WAY WHEN I PUT THE LOADER BACK ON I WOULD LIKE IT TO LOOK NICER.

THANKS DAN

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Acdiesel Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 15 Jun 2012 Location: Rochester Ohio Points: 2570	Post Options Post Reply Quote Acdiesel Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: D17 WITH 500 LOADER QUESTION Posted: 24 Nov 2016 at 8:08pm
	DOES ANY ONE HAVE PICTURES OF HOW YOUR LOADER FRAME IS ATTACHED AT THE REAR (TO THE AXLE ) OR WHERE EVER BACK THERE. DAD HAS A D17 SERIES 4 WITH FACTORY 3-POINT AND A ALLIS 500 LOADER, BUT SOME ONE COBBLED THE BACK HALF TO ATTACH IT TO THE REAR AXLE HOUSING, THEY WENT AS FAR AS TO WELD SOME HOME MADE U-BOLTS TO THE AXLE HOUSING. I PULLED THE LOADER OFF TODAY TO FIX THE P.T.O. LEVER ( I THINK THE ROLL PIN BROKE INSIDE AND TO REPLACE THE FRONT TIMING COVER. (SOME OF THE BOLTS WERE LOOSE AND THAT CAUSED THE COVER TO CRACK. ANY WAY WHEN I PUT THE LOADER BACK ON I WOULD LIKE IT TO LOOK NICER. THANKS DAN
	D19 Diesel,D17 Diesel SER.3 2-D14, 2-D15 SER.II WF/NF D15 SER.2 DIESEL D12 SER.I, D10 Ser.II 2-720'S D21 Ser. II Gmc,caterpillar I'm a pharmacist (farm assist) with a PHD (post hole digger)

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Kcgrain Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 24 Sep 2009 Location: Wisconsin Points: 776	Post Options Post Reply Quote Kcgrain Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 25 Nov 2016 at 9:11am
	The 500 had angle iron bent at a 45 degree roughly that wrapped around the final drive and a U bolt held it tight. You can go to Agco parts and look the drawings up so you can see what the original looks like, we have made them already when they were broke or missing. If your going to remount that loader on the tractor here is what I would suggest, go buy yourself some truck frame bolts, and a reamer. Allis Chalmers over punched all the holes to make it easier to align, but it also lets them get loose. Put the loader on, measure measure and remeasure to make sure its square, straight etc to the tractor than pull out the bolt ream the hole to the oversized truck frame bolt, and tighten it down. There will be no slop in any hole to allow the loader to move if you do that. Its over kill, but the only time I've seen a 4-500 loader wrecked or broke is from running them loose, and truck frame bolts are tougher than a grade 5 or 8 bolt

Acdiesel Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 15 Jun 2012 Location: Rochester Ohio Points: 2570	Post Options Post Reply Quote Acdiesel Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 25 Nov 2016 at 10:46am
	ARE YOU SAYING TO ELIMINATE THE REAR BRACKET BY USING AN OVERSIZE HIGHER GRADE BOLT ON THE FRONT FRAME BRACKETS? I HAVE SEEN SOME WITH OUT THE REAR BRACKETS. DAN
	D19 Diesel,D17 Diesel SER.3 2-D14, 2-D15 SER.II WF/NF D15 SER.2 DIESEL D12 SER.I, D10 Ser.II 2-720'S D21 Ser. II Gmc,caterpillar I'm a pharmacist (farm assist) with a PHD (post hole digger)

TimNearFortWorth Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Dec 2009 Points: 2014	Post Options Post Reply Quote TimNearFortWorth Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 25 Nov 2016 at 3:47pm
	Would never delete the "to rear" brackets, if you intend on really using it as stresses to engine side rails/torque tube can happen. Best "Quick Attach" units also had optional brackets to run to rear on many models. If you have any of the original hardware, you can stop by most heavy truck/trailer repair shops for replacement u-bolts as they have the proper material and the purpose built machines to bend them.

Kcgrain Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 24 Sep 2009 Location: Wisconsin Points: 776	Post Options Post Reply Quote Kcgrain Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 25 Nov 2016 at 3:58pm
	You CANNOT eliminate the brace to the back wheels, its part of the structural integrity of mounting a loader on the tractor. The original had a piece of angle iron bent at roughly a 45 degree that piece bolted to the side rails, and the bent part was attached by the U bolts to get it tight to the housing. Ft Worth is right any big truck shop can bend you up the ubolts, which are a grade 10. DO NOT buy a piece of ready rod, and try to make them yourself they are a grade 2 and will stretch, and dont buy a ubolt blank and try and bend it yourself it will break, it has to be a radius rolled bend on truck U bolts. I wish I knew how to post the Agco parts page here and you could see it for yourself. Its free just go to Agco parts log in as a visitor type in 500 than Agco allis and it should give you the selections for that loader and the mounting kit for a D17. Each tractor had a separate way of mounting

IBWD MIke Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 3970	Post Options Post Reply Quote IBWD MIke Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 Nov 2016 at 7:25am
	Took these pictures a couple days ago, hope they help. Not sure what model my loader is for sure.