Barrel stove

I have another question.
I found a long section of stainless triple wall stove pipe with a roof boot and a cap. It’s in very nice used condition.
The barrel stove kit uses 6” pipe. Can I run the 6” up to the 8” without draft problems?
Would be somewhere around 4’ of 6” pipe then an adapter.

It's ok to go smaller into larger on the chimney side, but I would do it close to the stove outlet and get the bennies of larger for more distance. If it starts burning hotter than you'd like, slow it with the draft. I really doubt if it will, but what do I know. First sentence is confusing, what I'm saying is keep it big from back of stove to top of chimney after it exits the stove.

Edited by Walker - 23 Dec 2025 at 4:41am

Look at the Roger Sanders waste oil burner. Uses a water heater tank and a cone shaped burner pot. It is a drip system. with the cone shaped you can vary the heat output by varying the size of the puddle in the cone.

We used a barrel stove for home heating for several years when I was growing up. Knowing my dad and looking back, it was “quite the setup”. Insurance never got involved thankfully.

Maybe 15 years ago or so dad was heating with a corn boiler. Thankfully it was located in a purpose built room for it, cement board and so forth. But he ended up with an outdoor unit crammed in that little room. Nowhere near enough space/ clearance to the walls. It had a hopper of corn directly above the fire box and it had a self starter that you connected a propane tank to. Not completely sure what happened but the working theory is that it got hot enough in there that the pressure relief on the propane discharged some propane which then flashed and caught the corn in the hopper on fire. Thankfully the door to the room was closed tight which frequently was not the case. Although might not have happened had it been flowing some heat into the garage. Anyway, burned all the electrical in the room, destroyed the controls on the unit, damaged the doors, smoke damage. Dad called the insurance man. He stood there, flipped a few pages on his clipboard, and said “It says here you have natural gas forced air heat” and left.

So yeah, you’re probably right to be concerned about what the insurance guy thinks.

WF owner wrote: Have you considered an unvented propane or natural gas heater? They are thermostatically controlled, very efficient, reasonably priced, relatively easy to install and quite safe. Many are UL certified.

Exactly what I’m looking at. 👍
Sure wouldn’t take up much room.

Best can remember, had a Pad Poured with a Footer wall, Steel Studs for wall supports and Steel Truss.  The damper Fuse Links were available thru his local HVAC Guys, they made the ducting.  Used Waste oil into a existing Wood Burner Furnace, used Drip method with a loss of heat solenoid control to stop oil flow if fire went out.  Got pretty Complex until he sold the place off.