This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
The Forum Parts and Services Unofficial Allis Store Tractor Shows Serial Numbers History
Forum Home Forum Home > Allis Chalmers > Farm Equipment
  New Posts New Posts
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login


Allis D17 electrical problem, no spark

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
boscoe View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level
Avatar

Joined: 23 Jan 2010
Location: ND
Points: 165
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boscoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Allis D17 electrical problem, no spark
    Posted: 07 Feb 2010 at 12:51pm
I am not getting spark. Power wire from switch to neg on coil, (power when key is on) I have power neg terminal on coil , positive on coil to distributor gets power, I get power to post on inside of dist where points and condenser are at, wire to condenser gets power, power to points,  I took off coil wire from cap  turned over engine  with wire close to block and no spark.I tested all of this with a test light that was well grounded. I dont have spark to the plugs. Is there a way to test coil, points condenser ? The points are set @ .20  I have always had spark and now nothing
Back to Top
Sponsored Links


Back to Top
Brian Jasper co. Ia View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Prairie City Ia
Points: 10508
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2010 at 1:12pm
Turn your engine so the cam in the distributor lets the points close. If you put new points in, pull a piece of heavy paper or an uncolored piece of thin cardboard through the points. They normally have an oil like coating on them to prevent corrosion.
Still no spark, check for power on the points side of the coil. With the points closed, the test light should not light, points open it should light. Use a non metallic item to open the points. You can manually open the points and cause a spark to jump. Points and condenser are inexpensive and not the quality they once were. The points would be unlikely to be bad out of the box, but it is possible the condenser could be. You can remove the condenser and still get a spark by working the points, but it will be much weaker. If all is coming up ok, the coil could be at fault.
Before you put a coil on it, how is the battery? I had a similar issue on my Oliver 60 once. It was originally 6V, I converted it to 12V. It would crank fine, but would not fire until the start button was released. My battery had a bad cell. The voltage was dropping to about 8 volts while cranking. Below about 9.5V, a 12V ignition system can't produce a spark under compression. It cranked fine because the starter being 6V was well within the intended working voltage.



Edited by Brian Jasper co. Ia - 07 Feb 2010 at 1:26pm
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
Back to Top
firebrick43 View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 10 Dec 2009
Location: Warren County
Points: 592
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote firebrick43 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2010 at 1:17pm
If you are running a coil with an internal resistor, unhook the wires to the coil.  The resistance between the two outside studs should be somewhere near .7 ohms to 1.7 ohms.  From one of the post to the center post should be  7.5K ohms to 10.5K ohms.  Not hard numbers but should be close.  You can test a condenser by checking its resistance, again unhook, hook up lead and touch case with other and resistance should start at 0 and climb slowly to infinity,  Points can be checked by manually breaking them open, seeing a spark, check for corrosion and pitting on the faces, touch up with a file. 

condenser and points should be replaced yearly as part of a tune up, to cheap really to fool with, available at your local napa. 
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.078 seconds.


Help Support the
Unofficial Allis Forum