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Allis Chalmers B Hydraulic Questions

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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2010 at 7:53pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2010 at 7:53pm
the above is a CA tractor cylinder mounted on a  B

Edited by steve(ill) - 06 Dec 2010 at 8:11pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2010 at 7:55pm
this is a B cylinder (very small- not much force for lift)
 
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2010 at 8:03pm
this is what the rock shaft looks like connected to a double plow on the B
 
 


Edited by steve(ill) - 06 Dec 2010 at 8:06pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2010 at 8:09pm
this was a big one bottom plow that i put a blade onto the plow beam. It had two small C cylinders. I tryed it with one, and it will barely lift. I later installed a WD45 cylinder.
 
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2010 at 8:13pm
I see, those pics helped a lot.  I'm starting to understand how they worked without a 3-point.  That was for implements with a snap coupler, right?  I will try flushing and if that doesn't work, I will try removing the pump and cleaning is as suggested by another member.  If that works, I might just leave the cylinder that's already on it for now until I get everything else worked out.  Thanks for the great pics.  Being not so familiar with these models yet, that at least gives me something to reference.  Once it warms up, I'm hoping to hit some local shows and study them a little closer now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2010 at 8:15pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

the above is a CA tractor cylinder mounted on a  B


The only real difference I see between this one and mine is the two brackets that attach to the ram end of the cylinder.   Mine are curved more like hooks.  Does a CA cylinder "bolt" right up to the original mounts without much modification?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pumpkin man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2010 at 8:39pm
llyes refill the syst. with motor oil [ all of these oils will work- 20-w or 10-30 or 15-40 or hi trans] all are avl. tractor supply-a auto parts-wal-mart-farm fuel dealer-ect. you are not goeing to get in trouble by draining & flushing the syst. agan if you have oil in the return hose the cly. is leeking should be no oil on end of the cly. on a 2-way cly. you have to have presure up & down. the B Allis syst. does not have down presure. Start by checking the cly. take the return hose off [you dont meed it] if the cly is leeking oil will come out when raiseing if not put vent plug in it next drain & flush-take the presure hose off the cly.put in a bucket & work the pump control lever up & down when flushing the pump. works wonders You can buy parts alday long but you havent found the problem YET! Sorry to sound gruff but after 50 some yrs. of working-playing & repairing Allis. Bs & Cs you learn some times the hard way some times the easy quit talking about how to-go due it.dont know what else to tell you. but tell us about what you found.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve M C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2010 at 8:41pm
BTW  Fuel oil is slang for diesel fuel.It will kind of wash down the junk but still has limited lubricating properties.That's why it was suggested to not put any real load on whatever system you put it in to "flush".Buzzing around the drive or short trips on the road with only the tractor shouldn't cause harm.Drain and refill with proper lubricant.Likewise with the hydraulic system.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2010 at 8:58pm
No, don't worry about sounding gruff.  I have NEVER work on hydraulics of any kind so I'm a bit cautious but it's finally starting to make sense in my head.  I see what you're saying about a 2 way cylinder and down pressure.  I really appreciate your patience and help with me on this.  Once I can gather up the supplies and get the wife's car out of the garage to work on it (it's supposed to be getting down in the single digits here so working on it outside is not an option) I will do exactly as you say.  My only other question is, since right now the hitch only raises, will that still flush everything out?  I realize it needs to be done regardless but I guess if it still won't go down, that basically tells me that the other problem is in the top (relief section) of the pump?

I have capacities out of the manual @ 6 quarts of oil for the dif and trans.  Is that correct?  Do the trans, diff and hydraulic all run of the same system?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2010 at 9:10pm
On a side note, I did get the lights rewired and a new switch put in and they work great, although my little 4-year old thinks he's responsible for getting them to work which is probably the case.  I also ordered a new sediment bowl assembly because my has been leaking full for days and has everything stunk up!
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MilesGray (CO/KS) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MilesGray (CO/KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2010 at 9:38pm

Welcome to the site! There are great folks on here that can help you with anything to do with AC tractors...

When you use the hydraulics on the B you need 7 quarts of fluid, a quart to run the hydraulics.
Miles Gray (CO/KS)

5 1938 B's, 1940 B, 1944 WF C, 1948 NF C, Gleaner A, White Top Rotobaler, 1957 IH Golden Jubilee... I'm either a collector, or crazy!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2010 at 10:37pm
Originally posted by MilesGray (CO/KS) MilesGray (CO/KS) wrote:

Welcome to the site! There are great folks on here that can help you with anything to do with AC tractors...

When you use the hydraulics on the B you need 7 quarts of fluid, a quart to run the hydraulics.


Thanks.  You are correct, everyone on this site has been extremely helpfull.....and patient.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2010 at 10:55pm
Originally posted by pumpkin man pumpkin man wrote:

llyes refill the syst. with motor oil [ all of these oils will work- 20-w or 10-30 or 15-40 or hi trans] all are avl. tractor supply-a auto parts-wal-mart-farm fuel dealer-ect. you are not goeing to get in trouble by draining & flushing the syst. agan if you have oil in the return hose the cly. is leeking should be no oil on end of the cly. on a 2-way cly. you have to have presure up & down. the B Allis syst. does not have down presure. Start by checking the cly. take the return hose off [you dont meed it] if the cly is leeking oil will come out when raiseing if not put vent plug in it next drain & flush-take the presure hose off the cly.put in a bucket & work the pump control lever up & down when flushing the pump. works wonders You can buy parts alday long but you havent found the problem YET! Sorry to sound gruff but after 50 some yrs. of working-playing & repairing Allis. Bs & Cs you learn some times the hard way some times the easy quit talking about how to-go due it.dont know what else to tell you. but tell us about what you found.


pumpkin man, is something like this alright to use?
http://www.ruralking.com/transdraulic-fluid-h-k-univ-2-gal.html

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Steve M C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve M C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2010 at 11:59pm
Yes it is.Commonly referred to as hy-tran oil.Basically all makes have used it in everything but the engine since the 70's. AC referred to "their's" as 821 power fluid.That # as well as other makes #'s are listed on containers.Today it says AGCO 821.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2010 at 11:40pm
Well, I wanted to come back and thank everyone for the help.  I couldn't get my pump unstuck and discovered it had several other problems.  i was able to find one online for a very reasonable price.  I also found a b cylinder on another forum and got everything put back together and it works!  What a relief.  Everything seems to be running good except the 3-point is a chatters a little when going up but I'm hoping that smooths out tomorrow after I get all the air bled out.  With only the weight of the 3-point and the draw bar, I raised it about half way up and left if for several hours and it didn't seem to bleed off at all.  Tomorrow, I'm going to hook up my blade and see how that works.  Thanks again to everyone for all the advise.  I'm sure I'll need some more in the near future as the brakes will probably be the next big project!
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Steve M C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve M C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2010 at 11:46pm
Good for you.Just remember  some have said the small B cyl may not lift much weight.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2010 at 11:53pm
Yeah, that's why I'm anxious to try it out tomorrow.  I only paid 25 bucks for the cylinder so if nothing else, it was good enough to confirm that everything was in good working order now.  If that doesn't do the trick, I'll either be adding another b cylinder or replacing with a new cylinder if I can find one to fit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec 2010 at 12:36am
When changing hydraulic rams, calculate the piston surface area.  Use your high-school math formulas to determine how much SURFACE is being acted upon by system pressure... and then multiply that surface area by the pump's output pressure (around 3200psi or so) to determine what your linear force is.  Often, running a single, larger cylinder will provide more surface area than two smaller cylinders... just do the math... and realize, that since the pump can only move so much oil so fast, a larger-volume cylinder setup will take longer to make a full lift.

Tractors prior to the early-mid '60's commonly used high pressure, low volume hydraulic systems, and generally they were single-acting cylinders for operating things like dump boxes on wagons, lifting up sickle mowers, hay rakes, bailers, etc... ran at upwards of 3-4000psi at only a few gallons a minute.

Newer systems use a low-pressure/high volume setup... more like 1200psi... but 10+ gallons per minute.  Larger cylinders made up for the loss of pressure.

The 3-point hitch was a very substantially-protected Harry Ferguson patent until the early '60's... prior to that time, most major farm equipment manufacturers had some sort of 2-point lift system.  Most of these systems were not difficult to adapt to a 3-point system, so many older tractors were equipped with 3-point after-the-fact.

Don't immediately assume that your brakes need replacing-  take off the covers and inspect, but before yankin' 'em out, check-see wether the adjusters have any adjustment left... if they do, break the nuts free and tighten up the adjusters a bit... that might be all it takes to get you back in good graces with the stoppin'iron gods.

;-)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec 2010 at 11:45am
Originally posted by DaveKamp DaveKamp wrote:

When changing hydraulic rams, calculate the piston surface area.  Use your high-school math formulas to determine how much SURFACE is being acted upon by system pressure... and then multiply that surface area by the pump's output pressure (around 3200psi or so) to determine what your linear force is.  Often, running a single, larger cylinder will provide more surface area than two smaller cylinders... just do the math... and realize, that since the pump can only move so much oil so fast, a larger-volume cylinder setup will take longer to make a full lift.

Tractors prior to the early-mid '60's commonly used high pressure, low volume hydraulic systems, and generally they were single-acting cylinders for operating things like dump boxes on wagons, lifting up sickle mowers, hay rakes, bailers, etc... ran at upwards of 3-4000psi at only a few gallons a minute.

Newer systems use a low-pressure/high volume setup... more like 1200psi... but 10+ gallons per minute.  Larger cylinders made up for the loss of pressure.

The 3-point hitch was a very substantially-protected Harry Ferguson patent until the early '60's... prior to that time, most major farm equipment manufacturers had some sort of 2-point lift system.  Most of these systems were not difficult to adapt to a 3-point system, so many older tractors were equipped with 3-point after-the-fact.

Don't immediately assume that your brakes need replacing-  take off the covers and inspect, but before yankin' 'em out, check-see wether the adjusters have any adjustment left... if they do, break the nuts free and tighten up the adjusters a bit... that might be all it takes to get you back in good graces with the stoppin'iron gods.

;-)


Thanks, that is interesting and good to know.
As for the brakes, I will definately look at adjusting them first.  I do know that both of the cover plates have a bolt broke off on either side so that should be fun trying to get them out.  It also looks like I have a spring off the clutch slide of the tractor somewhere down in the bracket housing I need to investigate.  If I can get that fixed up, I will then try to make some adjustments and keep my fingers crossed they will have enough left to get me through for a little while.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec 2010 at 11:49am
Good news, I hooked up the blade today and held my breath but the single b cylinder raised it with no problem.  I came up pretty quickly and didn't seem to struggle at all.  I also raised it all the way and killed the tractor and left it there for a while and it still didn't seem to bleed down any noticeable amount so I'm super happy and operational finally!  I tried to take a movie with my camera of it raising up and down but it was 18 megs so pictures will have to do for now but as soon as I can figure out how to take a smaller movie, I will try to upload it.  Thanks again for everyone that took the time to help me out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scoottmiester Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan 2011 at 10:44pm
Hello:   I didn't read all the replies, but I have been on www.oktractor.com  & www.tonystractors.com  and they have all kinds of part for the Allis Chalmers B.  I just bought a 1948 Allis Chalmers B two weeks ago and I really like it, it is in show room condition, and runs like new.  It cam with a blade on the front and works well for plowing my 375 yard long driveway.  This  is an awesome little tractor!   I think my wife is jellous of it already!
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Ya dun good Scottmeister. That is a sweet looking B. Glad it works out so well for you. I know a B is a lot of little tractor.God Bless
PS: Wife must be jealous as she makes you park it outside instead of in garage. LOL
When you find yourself in a hole,PUT DOWN THE SHOVEL!!!
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Wow, that's sharp.  Congrats!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2011 at 7:05pm
Fine looking tractors.  I've got to paint mine when it warms up down South.
1949 B   3930 Ford- Have owned other Orange ,green,red,yellow,dark green tractors and equipment.
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You guys are awesome! All of your combined knowledge is amazing! I know where to go for answers if I have any questions about my little B.     Scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 2:45pm
Well, I thought it was only appropriate that I share this will you all first after all the help.  I was able to use the B today to clear my driveway and it worked great!  We only had about 3 inches so far but everything seemed to be in working order.  I did notice that it takes a little extra effort without brakes (hopefully get those fixed once it warms up) but overall, I can't complain.  I also noticed a couple of other things that I need to figure out.

1. Weight on the front with definitely help the handling.  It's not too much of a problem with the blade raised surprisingly, but when you get a load behind you, it does get a little light.
2. The steering seems pretty loose and it dances a little so I would like to tighten that up a bit.
3. I was running in 2nd gear and for some reason, when I throttle up to get going pretty good it would do great for a few seconds and then the rpms seem to drop back down.  Not sure if it's anything big or just a loose linkage that's slipping.
4. Lastly, I went to fire it up and the starter didn't want to engage for the first couple times.  Not sure what the problem is but hopefully it will hang in there for the rest of the cold season.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Charlie175 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 3:04pm
Your long lift arms are what helps you. Most of the kits are designed with short arms which require a bigger Ram to work. Congratulations on the B and the blade. Should work great for the intended purpose.


Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 3:06pm
Originally posted by Charlie175 Charlie175 wrote:

Your long lift arms are what helps you. Most of the kits are designed with short arms which require a bigger Ram to work. Congratulations on the B and the blade. Should work great for the intended purpose.



Thanks, it was nice to be able to use it today and it's a lot better on the blacktop drive than the neighbor's bobcat!  Now, I might have to be looking on the classifieds for a new starter....
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