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Allis Chalmers B Hydraulic Questions

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yochujr View Drop Down
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    Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 6:51pm
I just purchased my first tractor tonight and noticed an issue with the hydraulics.  When I engage the pto, the 3 point raises but the lever that controls the up and down of the 3 points appears to be frozen so I can't lower it without disengaging the hydraulics.  On the pump, it looks like a throttle body on a carb and it will not move.  Anyone have any ideas what it could be and if it's super expensive to fix?  Thanks in advance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 7:24pm
There is really not too much to the whole pump unit. Get a manual, disassemble and clean things and you may need to replace a couple small ball bearings used as check valves. The cylinders should not leak down when the PTO is turned off, that is why I believe you might need to go through the pump. The valve may just be stuck, but what makes things stick is the watered down dirty crud built up inside these things in 50-70 years. Just remove the pump, clean it up and put it on a bench with a nice light colored rag under it. A lip on your bench and a clean floor will help you keep from loosing springs and balls as you remove them, but they can be replaced and should be if there is any pitting on the ball or broken springs. Hope this helps.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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yochujr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 7:36pm
Thank you.  So I should be able to pull the pump off the side and get it freed up where it will rotate?  Will anything shoot out on me?  Thanks for the help, I'm wondering if I should return the tractor or not.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 7:44pm
There is no rotating in the pump. There are cam lobes on the output from the transmission and there are plungers in the pump. Each plunger pushes oil past a spring loaded ball and you have pressure. When you pull the pump off the tractor, nothing will "shoot out". It might be just pumping some diesel fuel through it will flush things out enough to work properly. Take the pump off and you will see the inlet line hanging down. Submerge that in some diesel fuel and start pumping the plungers one at a time. Once you have diesel pumped through it, see if you can operate the valve.If it works easier for you, turn the pump uoside down and fill the suction tube with diesel fuel before pumping by hand.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 03 Dec 2010 at 7:46pm
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yochujr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 7:47pm
Here's a picture (hopefully, if I get it to work.)  The lever attached to the seat will not move.  It's like the small rotating part that it attaches to is frozen.  If it just needs cleaned, hopefully it's not a huge deal.  If it's something expensive, I've got a problem.
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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 7:49pm
Disconnect the rod coming up from the hydraulic unit to make sure the handle isn't froze to the seat bracket.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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yochujr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 7:57pm
No, the handle wiggles around and I can move it from side to side.  
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pumpkin man View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pumpkin man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 8:16pm
try  spraying it [that thing you say looks like a valve body] pent. oil that should  be free mite be rusted up  or to much paint on it does it look like its bent check the linkeag all of its got to be free moving
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 8:30pm
Thank you a ton for your help.  I will go soak it with penetrating oil tonight and check it tomorrow.  I have checked and all of the linkages themselves are free but I guess I just can't figure out what actuates the pump or valve body itself.  If it doesn't work, I'll try to take a few better pictures and maybe that will help.  I'm going to get a manual but it seems like no reason to try to return the tractor.  Thanks again for you help and I might need more in the very near future! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 8:43pm
there are two  sheetmetal circles about 3 inches in diameter mounted on the pump c enter shaft. When you pull the lever, it rotates one of the circles and the other is spring loaded to the first. when you let go of the lever, the spring pops the one circle back to neutral so it stops raising. when you push down to lower, the same happens. Let go of the lever and the circle pops back to neutral... soak the outside with a  PB blaster and then do a little prying  or rotate with vice grips. Tap in the circles lightly to shock load and break up any rust.. The center shaft you are rotating is pushing on a piston that lets oil go to "up" or "down"... the pump is actually a 2 piston pump that runs off a cam shaft  coming from the motor- transmission top shaft.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 8:57pm
Those are the parts that I thought should rotate and they don't.  I soaked them and I'll try to pry on them and see what happens.  If I need to pull the whole assembly, do I just take out the 4 bolts and it pulls out or do I need to disconnect something on the inside of the transmission?  Those circle plates you are talking about do not appear to move whatsoever but I will try to break them loose tomorrow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Long Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 9:54pm
Before you pull the pump you may want to drain the oil from a plug on the bottom of the PTO.  If you have a gasket with a dam build in it will hold the balance of the oil in the transmission rear end area and save the draining of all the rear end transmission oil. 
The oil is filled from a plug on the left of the transmission case looking forward. 
Pay close attention to what is said above.  It is excellently stated as to the problems you may be having. 
Thanks for taking such good care of my favorate.
Let us know how it goes.  Don't forget to get a manual or a shop manual that will show the breakdown of the hyd pump and pto.
Good Luck!
Bill Long
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yochujr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 10:10pm
Thank you both.  Being brand new at this, I'm sure I will have more questions but I'm hoping to get it fixed and working because I have a nice blade for it and snows getting close!  Thanks again and it's awesome to find a forum with such great people.

As for the fluid, hopefully the manual will tell me what I need and how to change it all.  It sat outside for quite some time and was not used much while he had it so I would say I need to drain every bit of fluid, oil and grease and change everything.
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yochujr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 10:12pm
Do you guys know any good websites to order parts from?  I know it is in serious need of brakes as well but my main concern for now is a place to find parts for the hydraulic pump if they're needed and haven't had any luck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WC7610 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 11:40pm
Check out the parts section of this website.  Several good suppliers supporting this website!
Thanks



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yochujr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 11:49pm
Ha, I was so worried about finding out what was going on, I completely missed the parts section.  Thanks!

Here are some pics of the new purchase.  I got it delivered and with the blade for 1500 so I don't think it was too bad. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2010 at 6:41am
That's a nice clean,well cared for B ! You 'dun good'.Just keep her full of gas, check the oil and have FUN !!
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

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If you get very much snow you may want some chains for the rear wheels.

Have fun with your new toy,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2010 at 8:36am
If you cant get the circular plates loose, then you will probalby need to remove the pump. The 4 bolts just take out, then wiggle out the pump. YOu will  see two plungers with rollers at the end. Inside the PTO case there are two cams that rotatae and the rollers run on them and push the two pistons in and out. YOU do have to drain the oil first. There are three 1/2 inch plugs on the bottom of the trans, differential, and PTO housing. You will get 2 gallons total drain. YOu need some thin weight oil like hytrans, universal tractor fluid, or 20 wt motor oil for refill. --- With the pump off, you might be able to set in a gallon can of penetrant and let it soak, or get a better grab on the circular parts. You pump internal obviously works since the 3 point goes up.  I would not tear it appart untill i got the circular discs losses. You may not have to disassemble.--- THe discs i believe are pinned on with a small roll pin. Maybe take the pin out and take the discs off and wire brush, then turn the shaft by vice grip to test.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2010 at 8:40am
For your information, your B is a little bit "special". Most Bs have a wishbone front alxe and the rear hubs press on a splined shaft. A few had a straight front axle that has adjustable width. To go with that the rear alxes were changed to a 5 bolt on pattern like an automobile rim... Thats what you got.. nice unit.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MBolton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2010 at 8:40am
Jack up or run the right rear tire up on a couple of blocks and you'll loose less oil and make it a bit easyer to get at the bolts holding the pump on. I use hytran but origional recommendation was 20 wt. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2010 at 8:44am
YOur tractor also has a distributor and coil instead of a magnito. IF it was built in late 50s, that might be original. IF it was build earlier, then it was retrofit. Post your serial number sometime, its by the shift lever....Foot step on the other side is not original, looks good from this angle.. how about another photo sometime of the step ?
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2010 at 10:05am
Yes, I will definitely put some more pictures on here.  I pulled the serial number last night and it is B120223 so I figured it to be a 1952.

As for the distributor, it has a 12v alternator on the other side so I just figured the thing has been switched from 6v.   I know a little bit more about 8ns and when I was looking at them I noticed that was very common so I assumed the same for the or any other 12v so it was easier to start.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote George Davenport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2010 at 3:13pm
I've got a 52 B and I would not take 1500 for it.  I think you got a very good purchase. Yours looks better than mine also.  I know you will enjoy it in many ways.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2010 at 8:57pm
Ok, I've got an update.  I sprayed the two outside sheetmetal plates/discs last night  with penetrating oil and tonight I was able to break it free by tapping it lightly with a hammer and get the entire lever and entire assembly to rotate.  I can also see the center shaft of the pump rotating.  Now, when I start the tractor up and engage the pto, the 3-point raises but I still cannot get it to lower, even with weight on it.  Any ideas now? I'm a little limited on space during the winter to tear it apart and I don't want to do it outside unless I can get it back up and running pretty quickly. 

Also, is there a rebuild kit available that's got all of the valves, balls, seats etc. available if this is the problem? I've been having trouble finding anything as far as hydraulic parts for this tractor, even on this sight unless I've completely missed it.  As I said before, this is all brand new but your words of wisdom have already started to build my confidence enough to dig into it.  Thanks again for all the great help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2010 at 9:56pm
Her's a picture of the step that you requested.

Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

YOur tractor also has a distributor and coil instead of a magnito. IF it was built in late 50s, that might be original. IF it was build earlier, then it was retrofit. Post your serial number sometime, its by the shift lever....Foot step on the other side is not original, looks good from this angle.. how about another photo sometime of the step ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yochujr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2010 at 9:58pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

For your information, your B is a little bit "special". Most Bs have a wishbone front alxe and the rear hubs press on a splined shaft. A few had a straight front axle that has adjustable width. To go with that the rear alxes were changed to a 5 bolt on pattern like an automobile rim... Thats what you got.. nice unit.


This is interesting.  I noticed that the front was adjustable but just assumed that it was somewhat standard for that year.  I would be interested in learning a little more about it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chalmersbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2010 at 10:16pm
You said that you got the discs to rotate. They should be seperated to rotate individually, with the springs creating friction and still allowing them to slip. Bob
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Yes, they do move separately now.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pumpkin man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2010 at 10:54pm

 in your last pict. it shows a return hose hook to the filler hole  what type hdly. cly is on that tractor could be your prob. show more pict. of the pump & cly. hook up looks like a to way cly. on a one way stym.

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