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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2025 at 8:09pm
Les,
 I have the cam in the engine. Need to get some time to start the process of inspection again.

Regards,
 Chris and Cheryl
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2025 at 9:23am
Any chance of having you do another camshaft check at 0.010" lifter rise on both intake and exhaust so I can compare it with mine? My curiosity is killing me Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2025 at 12:04am
A friend with a Bridgeport is a friend indeed! Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2025 at 8:57pm
Guys,
Friend Matt whittled out the offset key to my specs tonight. Assembly fit back together nicely. 


John came over today and helped put the centers in the CA wheels:


Small moves at snail pace. Weather has been cold. May get a slight break to start preparing to make maple syrup next week.
We get some results on the cam movement results soon.
Regards,
 Chris and Cheryl
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2025 at 9:45am
Originally posted by ekjdm14 ekjdm14 wrote:

...
A cam with more duration will appear less pointy, kind of counter-intuitive but less "hump" = longer duration
Yup. More area under the curve. It's just simple calculus Wink

Originally posted by ekjdm14 ekjdm14 wrote:

... And do any companies make a more "standard" 1342 cam for the 125 engine?

I doubt it, this would be a VERY expensive cam to produce with its hollow bore, etc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ekjdm14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2025 at 6:37am
Originally posted by Les Kerf Les Kerf wrote:

Nice! Smile I do believe you are on the right track.
Just looking at the picture the cam lobes do not appear to be as pointy as the cam in my B-125 Power Unit engine.

I made a new thread about that cam in case you missed it.


A cam with more duration will appear less pointy, kind of counter-intuitive but less "hump" = longer duration

I'm impressed by your dedication to get this thing running to it's fullest potential Chris. Interesting to note the "offset" on Les' camshaft. I wonder, if firing order is in fact an issue Allis had to work around why did they stick with 1243? And do any companies make a more "standard" 1342 cam for the 125 engine?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2025 at 8:57pm
Les, folks,
Yes I saw your data in your post. Very good.
Thanks guys for the tips and suggestions on my CA cam swap. I have learned new things engine related down in some details. I will not be an engine builder. 
Regards,
 Chris and Cheryl


Edited by Sugarmaker - 19 Feb 2025 at 9:00pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2025 at 8:11pm
Nice! Smile I do believe you are on the right track.
Just looking at the picture the cam lobes do not appear to be as pointy as the cam in my B-125 Power Unit engine.

I made a new thread about that cam in case you missed it.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2025 at 6:59pm
Folks,


Off topic: Friend John K with our Ruby

Regards,
 Chris and Cheryl
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 2025 at 6:46pm
Guys,
 I am going to get the offset key made in the next day or two. Decide to use a .25 wide key and trim it down to fit the keyways. That should be about .036 inch offset in the key moving the cam CCW from the cam gear. 

I will have to check the exhaust angles after I get the cam back in.

Regards,
 Chris and Cheryl


Edited by Sugarmaker - 19 Feb 2025 at 9:02pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb 2025 at 10:17pm
Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

...
Also I did take a quick check on the 197 degree number that Les was looking for.
Turned the crank until I got to where the cam just started to move, went .050 inch beyond and read the wheel at -16 degrees. Spec says -9.3
continued to other side of the lobe went to where it stopped and backed up .050. read the wheel at 26 degrees. Right on spec at 26 ABDC
so -16+26+180= 190.  orig spec was 197
(-9.3+26+180 = 197) So off by 7 degrees? My inspection may need tuning??...

Hmmm...

I hadn't planned on doing this yet, but the weather warmed up a bit today (39 degrees) so I went out to the shop and uncovered my combine engine (same as a Model C).

I checked the cam timing on cylinders #1 and #4 since the set up is the same. They were close enough to the same that will just report them as such.

Since my ancient Chilton's manual only specified the opening event at 0.010" I measured that as follows:
Intake opens 0.010" @ 3 degrees ATDC
Intake closes 0.010" @ 44 degrees ABDC for a Gross Duration of 221 degrees

I then checked the timing at 0.050"
Intake opens 0.050" @ 22 degrees ATDC
Intake closes 0.050" @ 28 degrees ABDC for a Net Duration of 186 degrees

It looks to me like you have the intake closing event pretty well nailed down the same as a stock cam, it just opens a lot sooner.

Try checking the exhaust events.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb 2025 at 1:06pm
Guys,
I have some of this backwards too.
Couple things:
 The crank gear turns two rev and the cam gear turns 1 rev. 

Did some noodling on the distance that the cam needs to move and the direction.

First the 105.4 degree spec minus 111 degree current lobe center line. = 5.6 degrees 
divide that in half (2.8 degrees) as the cam gear is twice as big so the 5.6 degrees as the point it comes to the cam gear is 2.8 deg of the circumference of the cam gear.
Taking that 2.8 degrees back down to the size of the cam which is 1.5 inches. 2.8 degrees on the 1.5 inch dia =  

I did some thinking and came up with a dimension of .036 actual movement in the cam inside the gear. That was based on the delta 5.6 angle divided by 2 = 2.8 deg on the cam gear at 1.50 dia so 1 degree on 1.5 = .013 inch. so .013 x 2.8 =.036 inches of cam movement. Fingers crossed!:)

Now we want the crank gear to come up to the 105 degree number sooner as it turns clockwise, the cam lobe needs to move to a position sooner as it turns counterclockwise. The lobe should move counter clockwise by the .036 inches. 

I think I can get this movement  with a custom built offset key.

Also I did take a quick check on the 197 degree number that Les was looking for.
Turned the crank until I got to where the cam just started to move, went .050 inch beyond and read the wheel at -16 degrees. Spec says -9.3
continued to other side of the lobe went to where it stopped and backed up .050. read the wheel at 26 degrees. Right on spec at 26 ABDC
so -16+26+180= 190.  orig spec was 197
(-9.3+26+180 = 197) So off by 7 degrees? My inspection may need tuning??

Regards,
 Chris and Cheryl
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb 2025 at 7:15am
Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

...

Based on this I believe the cam lobe center-line moves 15 degrees per cam gear tooth. I haven't thought through the logic but it may be because the cam gear turns 720 degrees or two times compared to one rev of the crank gear...

You are correct, I had a brain cramp Embarrassed

You will probably need to have a new keyway cut unless an offset key can be made to take up that large of a difference.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2025 at 9:47pm
Folks,
The crank stayed at TDC and the cam lobe center-line moved CW or CCW one tooth.
At its current keyed location in the cam gear the cams intake lobe is at 111 deg when the cam and crank are lined up on the marks. As you move the cam gear CW or CCW one cam gear tooth each way, the lobe moves advanced or retarded Approx 15 deg each way from the 111 on the degree wheel.

Regards,
 Chris and Cheryl


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2025 at 8:31pm
I think your right Chris... I was looking at it as leaving the CRANK at the right position and moving the CAM one tooth to get the lobe up.... I guess in reality ( a better way to think about it) is you are leaving the cam LOBE  up , and moving the CRANK to a new positon... so that would be 15 degrees..... Im learning to, as i said, i have not really done this before..

Edited by steve(ill) - 16 Feb 2025 at 8:33pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2025 at 8:04pm
Folks,
 i will work on finding the duration (197) More trials to do to find this and be repeatable.

I am using the plus and minus .050 inch from the top of the intake cam lobe to capture the degrees and then average them to get the lobe center-line. Seems to give good numbers.

Regards,
 Chris and Cheryl


Edited by Sugarmaker - 16 Feb 2025 at 9:37pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2025 at 7:46pm
Folks,

I updated my words from my post above, from this afternoon to hopefully be more clear. 

If you do a little math assuming my inspections are correct, you will see that moving the cam gear one tooth each way from the mark on the crank gear the new numbers are:
126 - 111 = 15 degrees exactly double the noted 7.5 expected degrees.
 96 - 111 = 15  degrees exactly double the noted 7.5 expected degrees.

Based on this I believe the cam lobe center-line moves 15 degrees per cam gear tooth. I haven't thought through the logic but it may be because the cam gear turns 720 degrees or two times compared to one rev of the crank gear.

Again all this assumes I have done a fair job with the inspection. 

Regards,
 Chris and Cheryl
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2025 at 5:14pm
Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

...
Les, Are you talking about when the valve just starts to open plus .050 on the indicator, then read the angle?
...
Yes.
On the intake valve closing point you would read the degrees 0.050" before closing.

The reason I keep going back to this 0.050" thing is because that is the typical number that most modern cam grinders use to specify the effective duration (rather than Gross Duration, which is bigger).

If you can check the 0.050" duration, and if it comes anywhere near 197 degrees, then we will know that the cam grinder did actually use that number in the specs.

Then all you would need to do is get the intake to close (0.050") somewhere near 26 degrees ABDC and you will be where the cam is designed to run.

If he didn't use 0.050" then you need to determine what lift he did use (say, 0.006" or maybe 0.020") that corresponds to 197 degrees. Then you can use that number.

Closing the valve later will move the RPM range up, but may harm the low RPM torque. If you intend to run near stock RPM, then you don't want to close that valve very much later than the stock cam. Trouble is, I don't have that number.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2025 at 4:48pm
Chris... i think im lost.. I though yesterday you got 111 and you wanted 105... I dont think you can just turn the crank to do this test.. I think you need to PULL the cam shaft out an inch, move ONE TOOTH so the timing marks are off by ONE TOOTH and then push back together ????   .... its just a TEST, but i THINK it is suppose to move 7.5 degrees so you should measure 111 - 7.5 =  103.5  ??
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2025 at 4:35pm
Guys,
 I escaped to the shop. Rolled the cam gear one tooth each direction.
First rotated the cam gear one tooth clockwise the final degree number of the center-line of the intake lobe = 126
Next rotated the cam gear back past crank TDC mark one tooth counter clockwize. and the Lobe centerline final number was =96.

interesting that the math 126 + 96 = 222 divided by 2 = 111 humm!

So will need to cut a new keyway in the cam at the correct location I believe. More thinking on that location and dimension.

Regards,
 Chris and Cheryl


Edited by Sugarmaker - 16 Feb 2025 at 7:19pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2025 at 3:32pm
Folks,
 I may try to move the cam gear one tooth clockwise which should be retarding the cam. 

So the cam gear is about 6 inches in diameter. 6 x 3.14 = 18.85 inches circumference divided by 360 deg = .052 inches per degree. if I need 5.6 degrees x ,052 = .293 inches of movement on the cam gear.
So if the cam gear needs to turn 720 degrees for 1 rev, do I need twice as many inches of movement. Or .293 x 2 = .586 inches? Ok that may not be right.

Les, Are you talking about when the valve just starts to open plus .050 on the indicator, then read the angle?

We are snowed in again. Not really, but blowing and drifting, and I don't like to take Cheryl out in this. 

Regards,
 Chris and Cheryl
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2025 at 11:01am
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

i was wondering about that Les... the cam has "about" 50 teeth so divide that into 360 degrees and each tooth is "about " 7 degrees ??  ........... i would guess thats how it works..

Yup.
360 degrees/46 teeth = 7.826

That 'might' get it close enough. It is the easiest thing to change anyway, and given my inherent laziness I would try it before doing any fancy machining work. Plus, it would get it closer so an offset key wouldn't need to be quite as big.

If it were mine I would focus on finding that Intake Valve Closing Event @ 0.050" lifter rise before (and after) moving it one tooth because that is what controls the trapping of your compression.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2025 at 8:30am
i was wondering about that Les... the cam has "about" 50 teeth so divide that into 360 degrees and each tooth is "about " 7 degrees ??  ........... i would guess thats how it works..
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2025 at 7:44am
The intake closing event is the most important point, try moving it one tooth and see what it looks like.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2025 at 8:20pm
Chris, when they made the cam did it come with MARKS for installation ? I assume thats what you used for the original build......Just asking, what your doing now is to VERIFY the cam and POSSIBLE move the gear on the cam a few degrees ( cut a new keyway ??) to get the SPEC numbers to agree ??

I have only done this once. Rebuilding an old CASE 153 motor that had  3 different timing marks on the cam gear and i didnt know which one was correct... Didnt move the GEAR... just checked out the "BTDC" opening...


Edited by steve(ill) - 15 Feb 2025 at 8:21pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2025 at 8:12pm
plummer, guys,
So I was able to spend some additional time playing with the cam and its location. My systems and tools are rather crude but continue to improve and learn on this degreeing thing. Will have some questions. Some of these things no one will ever use!

Note I added a stiff angle bracket out the front to do two things. First I can mount the dial indicator base in a place. I can see the dial while I use a bar to turn the crank at the back of the block. Second I can use this bracket to stop the piston before TDC in both directions.
The intake push rod was flopping around a little so I wrapped the stem with tape to tighten it up as it came through the block.
Was also getting some slightly off dimensions when the indicator was riding in the radius in the top of the push rod. So I added a razor blade across the top of the push rod to minimize errors in the readings.

A small short socket provided the stop, about 3/4 inch below TDC. Checked the degree wheel numbers both ways and averaged those to get the wheel set on the snout of the crank.

The magnets worked very well to hold the degree wheel in place:

On the back of the stiff paper wheel I added a circle to see if the paper was moving. The magnets held the wheel fine. Saved building a tool I would not use again. Good suggestion by Les.


Shot of the cam in current location.
Ok some numbers. 
The cam lift is .260 About .004 shy of the spec. But after about 10 checks that's what it is.

The intake cam lobe center-line spec was 105.4 degrees ATDC. I watched some additional videos and began using the .050 inch before and after the top of the cam lobe inspection method.(as mentioned above)  And then checking the degree wheel numbers and averaging them to get the actual cam lobe center-line number.   After another 6 checks of the center-line I have determined it is approx 111 degrees ATDC therefore 5.6 degrees more than the spec. Checked about 6 times and I feel this is correct. 

So next will be to plan the cam and gear work required to get this back near the correct location.

Regards,
 Chris and Cheryl




Edited by Sugarmaker - 15 Feb 2025 at 8:17pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2025 at 7:04am
I like what you're doing. Nothing wrong in learning engine building procedures and knowing what you have
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb 2025 at 7:57pm
Allis folks,
Not expecting much improvement in CA horsepower, if we get the new 175 grind cam issue resolved.
Made a run at the checking of the cam specs today, more to learn and do. Just some random pictures.




May pick up a couple sets of plugs for that first pull.
The original goal of this cam change was to replace the original cam because of worn lobes. Did it run? Yes it did.

Regards,
 Chris and Cheryl


Edited by Sugarmaker - 14 Feb 2025 at 8:40pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb 2025 at 11:26am
Originally posted by IBWD MIke IBWD MIke wrote:

Question. On an engine that makes approximately 25 HP, what is the potential gain from all the work required to degree the cam?

Pretty much nothing, unless you find that it is WAY off. It would take a very determined dyno operator a lot of time and money to conduct A-B-A testing with the cam at 2 degree intervals to Plus and Minus 10 degrees from stock to really PROVE anything.

But that isn't the point. It is always nice to know that it is as correct as it should be, and some of us just like to play with our toys Smile


Edited by Les Kerf - 14 Feb 2025 at 11:29am
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Location: Rocky Ridge Md
Points: 5109
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb 2025 at 10:30am
In the beginning, I tried to convince Chris to get a ready to run CE block engine from me that would be close to 50 HP, but I guess his priority was pretty paint and probably chrome also LOL  I hope he has money left for new spark plugs when he's finished. I seen that happen more times than I can remember, a newly painted tractor shows up at the first pull of the year and when it starts to pull it sputters and stalls. 
  Although in all seriousness when we first conversed as he started this project, he informed me his local pull are the Grampa Gear restricted type and with the slow ratio low gears a CA has, As long as the engine runs balance is more important than power. He's going to have a beautiful tractor when he's done. 
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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