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AC forklift, no start?

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Broncobilly View Drop Down
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Joined: 28 Sep 2012
Location: Wilmette, IL
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    Posted: 20 Oct 2012 at 9:02pm
A week and a half ago, I brought home an early 70's Allis FPB 20-24 1 ton capacity forklift.  The lift is powered by a gas (Waukesha F 133 4 cyl).  Anyway; when I picked up the forklift from the seller, it started right up.  It also fired right up when I unloaded it, after the 300 mi trip home.
The forklift has sat for a little over a week, with no charger on the battery.  Today; I tried to start it, in order to change the oil/filter.  The old Allis would not start!  I put a 200 amp jump box on it, and the lift still won't start.  Even after a quick charge for 30 min @ 40 amps.  The carb is getting fuel (electric fuel pump is working), the ignition solenoid is working.  I am sure the forklift is in neutral (checked a few times).  I am not seeing the crank pulley rotating with the ignition engaged?  It sounds and seems like the starter motor isn't kicking in, when the key is turned on.  I am thinking either the batt is going bad, or the starter motor crapped out?  I even took a rubber mallet and gave the starter a few wacks, but still not start.  I am going to put the battery on a trickle charger over night, and go from there.  Will probably start with a new battery, then go on to the starter motor.  Any idea how big you can go with CCA rating (cold cranking amps) on these little 4 cyl forklifts?  Also; on a shuttle shift clutch, you don't have to have the clutch pedal engaged, on start up - do you?  I am sure as long as the lift is in neutral, it should start?  Any help is greatly appreciated!
TIA!,
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Eric B View Drop Down
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Joined: 09 Feb 2012
Location: British Columbi
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct 2012 at 12:45am
A disappointing introduction to your forklift with a "no start". You're right you don't need the pedal in the down position for the starter to engage. When you turn the key with shuttle shift lever in neutral and the solenoid kicks in but the starter won't turn over you're down to three possibilities.....#1 the battery is (next to) finished
                                          #2 the starter is faulty
                                          #3 a poor battery cable connection (or bad cable)
You can put a battery in with as many CCA as you can get if the battery will physically fit in. You can try with a boost from another machine or vehicle, that way it can save you having to buy a new batt. if there's no difference. I've very often had poor cable connections be the problem on older equipment. If you do the simpler tests first it can save you spending money on components that are not the problem. 
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Broncobilly View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Broncobilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct 2012 at 8:51pm
Eric B,
Thanks for the reply!  I finally found my multi-meter, and checked the ignition solenoid (which is good), and the batt (not good).  The battery was under 12 volts.  I even put a booster box on the battery, to no avail.  I ended up pulling all the cables (pos batt cable, neg bat cable, and starter cable) - as they were pretty tattered!  I am going to get a new battery and cables at NAPA tomorrow.  That should solve the starting issue, I hope.
Also, I attempted to pull the old belt on the engine/alt.  From what it appears, the rear hydraulic pump - on the crank pulley, will need to be removed, in order to change out the belt?  I see no other way to removing the belt?  It sure would be nice to have an operators manual, but so far, I can't locate one for my model AC lift.
TIA!,
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Mrgoodwrench View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mrgoodwrench Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct 2012 at 8:58pm
you only have to pull the shaft... i think... been awhile since i had one of those apart...also on those old girls we like to add a slave solenoid for the starter. if you loose a little voltage to starter(through ign sw, wireing ect..) they will just click even with a good battery. just use your crank wire to trigger it to send battery voltage to starter terminal, this will guarentee 12v to starter solenoid
There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!
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