1958 D17 NFE (lots of pictures)

Folks,
First thanks for the positive comments on the old 17. Future plans?? I may use the 17 to haul wood for the sugarhouse and for the house next year. I can get this one a little dirty and not feel to bad.:) Would also like to take it to a few tractor pulls just to see how it does. Not sure of the weight? Might be 5,000 if the tires are loaded? I think this tractor will be a good stable mate to the old WD at my daughters place, both are not restored. This one may never get restored? After having done a couple its a lot of time work and money. As they say they are only original once!

Well I about broke the bank this last week with trailer and the 17. Need to slow down and do some things around the house. ;)

Sorry for the dumb questions. Just never was around one of these. I can figure it out. I will have more questions than answers for a while. Guess I will need to get some manuals at some point too.

(Dan, thanks for the insight on the carb, I will see how this one does) I have never had a zenith carb so I will watch this one. May pull it sometime and do a good cleaning and rebuild at least. 
Have to get that choke knob. I need one for another project too so I may look at McMaster Carr for a couple 1/4-20 plastic knobs.

The rear tires (16.9-28 Armstrong brand) on this tractor are fair and will work as long as I have the tractor. Right one has some de-lamination on the lugs on a few spots. Almost looks like retread coming apart?? I was happy to see that the rims are not rotted out. very minor surface rust on the right one at the valve stem.

THANKS for the tip on not getting off the right side. I could see how that accident might happen with that PD lever. Is that why that cast guard for the button was added??

I was looking at that bar/clamp on the PD and didn't realize it was a rock stopper feature, but did look like a add on. So guys do you use the PD just like the hand clutch on the WD's? Don said if the tractor was in gear with the PD in neutral it may creep a little when you let out the foot clutch. Yea this tractor wants to move like that.
 
I did not see any serious fluid leaks under this tractor (which is pretty amazing!) and all fluid levels were as required. I will get to a complete fluid change over in the future.

Ok give me the skinny on how the power steering works on this tractor?

Also need to know what the knob is on the lower right of the dash. Its a bakelite plastic looks like a push/ pull knob?

And what is the handle on the left near/above the clutch?

Yes the side panels are a nice plus. Tractor seems to be mostly complete. Fenders may have some rust under where they bolt on but nothing showing elsewhere.

Suggestions on the grill? It has a 6 inch tear in the screen dead center. I am pretty sure this is the same grill material as the WD's. Anyone ever replace the screen in one of these?

Were all the rear lights on this tractor std equipment? One on each fender and the big one behind the seat. Right fender one is missing guts of the light. The wires are not connected. Headlights were both pointed inward (cross-eyed) both are bent and need to be removed and some straightening at some point.

The air stack looks very tall is that correct? Cap slipped right off and back on.

Temp gage is not working and the hour meter is not operational. Has cigar lighter. I think the light switch is the pull rod without the knob right side of dash?

Oil pressure looks acceptable. And its charging.

Haven't popped the side covers yet. Good to see the side cover latches are in place as mentioned. Lots of that little stuff got misused/broken over the years.

 I just couldn't leave the D17 out side last night. Had to make room and pull it in the back of the sugarhouse.

Happy Easter! Off to help Cheryl with the big family dinner she is making!

Regards,
 Chris






Edited by Sugarmaker - 28 Mar 2016 at 4:24pm

Fred in Pa wrote: So ,you ask what it is worth and you will not tell what you paid . LOL

Fred,
 I paid way more that the wife allowed!:)
I had put a walk away number on it that was lower than the suggested numbers given to me on here. And I bought it for a little less than that.

 And I do appreciate the suggestions as to price coming from folks on the Allis FORUM!

 One forum member suggested a $1500 price would be his limit. That would have been a good value. I did not have any pictures posted and had not looked the tractor over very well when I started this thread. If I would have seen and used that $1500 number we would not be talking about it.
I thought the tractor would go for more than it did, and was surprised that I had the final bid.

One thing that may or may not have been a factor is that the tractor =came in very late and had no advertisement in their sale information.
You just never know at a auction. Most stuff I am interested in, so is everyone else and it goes sky high! I passed on a $1500 WD-45 a couple years ago at a auction and it had way more issues than this tractor. So did I get a good value on this 17? I feel pretty good about it at this time.
Buyers remorse is not too bad yet:)
(I know I skirted around your question, a little:))

The value can be calculated in different ways. I looked at the rear tires and had a tire guy give me a quote of approx $2000 for new tires. I looked at the sheetmetal and it was very serviceable as is. No serious leaks or oil soaked engine looked like a plus.
All these things cost me a lot of money to fix on the last WD restorations.

Regards,
 Chris

 

Chris i think that knob on the dash is added for the rear work light. Not sure but it sounds to me like someone added a second light switch for it. My d17 always just had one light on the left hand fender pointing back red as I recall but then the right fender was replaced before I can remember so I really don't know if they just didn't move the light to the new fender. But mine has one of those goofy little 2 prong plugs under the seat for a light but no work light on the back so I think that is something that was added.
As to the lever by the clutch I am pretty sure that you are looking at the pto lever. It should be a flat bar of steal about 1 inch wide and I don't know maybe 18 inches long not too long. Forward is engaged and back is disengage.   
I don't know just how you use the hand clutch on a wd but the power direct is a oil bath clutch you can pull that lever from high to low without touching the foot clutch. You can shift it under load without any issues.   I always was told to always put it in the middle when shifting using both clutches to shift just reduces the chance of grinding the transmission.   If you are baling hay you can just pop the power direct to natural and let the baler process the bunch the slowly inch it ahead with it till it is clear sailing again. People will argue about slipping the hand clutch but mine was used like that since new for about 10000 bales a year and I just replace the clutch pack a couple of years ago for the first time so I don't think it was abused too bad.
The power direct is really tuff just keep oil in it and don't slip it into the middle and leave the tractor running like that not only could it creep but that clutch isn't designed to just slip for the entire time you fix the knotters that is too long just slip it the little bit to get a bunch through and you are ok. Basically as long as the oil isn't hot it is fine.
Oh that creeping is a great sigh means the clutches are pretty strong. The oil bath clutch pack is just sticking with the oil enough to engage it in gear a little. I have noticed my power direct has a habit of doing that but my shuttle clutch doesn't. I am guessing the shuttle clutch can't decide if it wants to go forward or back but the power direct knows it wants to go forward all the time...
Enjoy you new tractor and I bet by the time winter comes you will be soo happy with it that you won't want to send it away to visit your daughter. But if you do she is one lucky lady.

Thanks CTucker and Dan!
I knew I would get some answers quickly.
Great suggestions and comments about how these tractors should function too!

I have a thought of hooking to those 3 bottom plows that I reworked last year and turning over some dirt this spring with the 17.

Will look at that rim around the valve stem again.

Fred is still adding and subtracting numbers on the value:) Just kidding Fred!
Hey I might want to sell this tractor someday and make a small profit! Time will tell if it is a keeper or not. My problem is that I just don't sell many items after I get them. Bad habit!
Regards,
 Chris



Edited by Sugarmaker - 27 Mar 2016 at 10:16am

Does not seem to have much wear on the clutch pedal "diamonds".
Sure there is many out there but I have seen very few 17's with the safety kick out on the PD handle.
Fun tractor to have size wise, enjoy.

Play Farmer wrote: AC Dave, I'd say the tach was original, the others look like they've been changed.  Sugarmaker, I was the one who posted the $1500 number. I didn't say it was worth that, I said you'd probably buy it for that. After seeing the pictures thats a nice, straight tractor. I think you may have yourself a nice piece. I sure like mine.  I put some snow tires into storage today so I even had a few minutes with mine today. It's just begging to get out - but it's early here.  You'll have no problem at all pulling 3 bottoms either. I pulled 4 with mine with no issues - after I added the front weights.

Play Farmer,
 I see about your estimate of what I might pay. You weren't too far off!
Think I will go take her for a little ride.
Regards,
 Chris

Chris the serial number is on the bell housing left hand side of the tractor. That genorator is interesting because I thought it was painted black from the factory but that one has been PO1 for a long time. Have you checked the points? It looks like it has new wires I am wondering if it has sat enough to need the point cleaned.
Glad to hear you are enjoying it.

Oh I can see it all now... you know while the front rims are off is a good time to check the front wheel bearing and paint the front support.... it will be a restored tractor before you know it..

Dan73 wrote: Oh I can see it all now... you know while the front rims are off is a good time to check the front wheel bearing and paint the front support.... it will be a restored tractor before you know it..

Dan,
I cant say it could not happen. But I need to slow down a little on the finance end of these!
I was thinking about doing a wheel and tire swap. I have 6.00-16's on the WD NFE and the books say 5.50-16 should be on a WD. I believe 6.00 -16 is correct for the D17? Hummm?
Just thinkin!
Going out to get that serial number.
Regards,
 Chris

Quote from Dan,
"Oh and you are missing the snap coupler hooks. I bet someone put a 3 point hitch on it once and removed it. That is how mine got taken off. I got lucky my grandfather knew where he put them decades earlier and they where still right into the corner of the barm. But you don't need them unless you have snap coupler stuff which I don't. I just think the old hooks look cool"

Dan,
 I do have pretty good set of "D" series latches on the wide front end WD. And a set on the old WD, not as good but still functioning with the poor man's three point on that tractor too.
Regards,
Chris

6.00 x 16 looks too small on a D17.  My D14s and D15 came with 6.50 which might be a bit better.  Both of my 17s have 7.50 x 16 on the front and have a nice look without being fat.  I see you have some wet areas under the fuel tank - you might need to get it lined, there is nothing else in that area that would make such a mess.

For a good step, talk to Mike Noonan here.  His steps are the nicest you will find anywhere and are a direct bolt on.

If you really want to learn everything about the tractor, get an owners manual.  They are well worth the money.

DSeries4 wrote: 6.00 x 16 looks too small on a D17.  My D14s and D15 came with 6.50 which might be a bit better.  Both of my 17s have 7.50 x 16 on the front and have a nice look without being fat.  I see you have some wet areas under the fuel tank - you might need to get it lined, there is nothing else in that area that would make such a mess. For a good step, talk to Mike Noonan here.  His steps are the nicest you will find anywhere and are a direct bolt on. If you really want to learn everything about the tractor, get an owners manual.  They are well worth the money.

Thanks! I do have to get a manual for the D17. And you are right the fuel tank is leaking and will be the first project to repair on the tractor. It also has a little 'hitch' in the steering. like jerks a little at times. May just be low on fluid.
I will look at those steps too.
Mike send me info on your steps please!

Regards,
 Chris

You think that it sounds nice now running wide open, wait until you open it up with the plow on the back! It'll really snort then and you'll go to sleep with a big grin on your face, if you go to sleep at all that night after plowing with it that first day!

Jim,
 Your dad and mine would have gotten along good. That's a great story! My dad only changed plugs or put a jumper on the  WD45's plugs, made from a match book cover to get the spark to jump and clean a fouled plug. Amazing how much work these tractors did with minimal maintenance. Dad never changed the oil he just kept adding as it slowly leaked out various places!
Guess I am going to have to move plowing up the list of things to do. There is about 5 acres behind the house that the neighbor might let me plow? May try to shine those old three bottoms up with the D17. If I do I will get some pictures too.
Regards,
Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 29 Mar 2016 at 10:09pm

http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=115066&KW=steps&PID=947300&title=tractor-steps#947300