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New Guy debating |
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Ranse
Orange Level Joined: 11 Mar 2016 Location: Tennessee Points: 773 |
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Well, she looks good! I'm curious about the cap on the side of the hood. What's it for? I've never seen it before. Good looking Farmall too, did you buy both tractors? The brakes on my B are almost non-existent as well. That's a future project, one of thousands I need to get to.
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brewvet
Bronze Level Joined: 22 Feb 2018 Location: Blue Ridge, GA Points: 20 |
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Thanks for the reply. Yep got a complete set of cultivators and mounting hardware which look like they have never been used.
It looks like the brakes are just worn out, I tried adjusting them and can get a little pedal on the left side but nothing on the right. So it sounds like the bands are easy to replace, the drums are a lot more work. I will order some new bands, can you buy these at NAPA or would I need to get from Steiner, etc? Thanks |
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CrestonM
Orange Level Joined: 08 Sep 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 8357 |
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That tank on the right side of the hood is the gasoline tank. It's a Kerosene B. The engine serial number should have a "K" stamped as the final digit, unless it's had a block swap.
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brewvet
Bronze Level Joined: 22 Feb 2018 Location: Blue Ridge, GA Points: 20 |
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The Farmall I actually took in trade.
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brewvet
Bronze Level Joined: 22 Feb 2018 Location: Blue Ridge, GA Points: 20 |
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Interesting, can you school me on the Kersoene models, were these dual fuel? There is a separate number on the block starting with a 'K', Looks to be 'K 108'. The other number stamped appears to be 5 digits starting with an 'AM'. |
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CrestonM
Orange Level Joined: 08 Sep 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 8357 |
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I don't know a whole lot about them, other than yes they are dual fuel. You're supposed to start the engine on gas from the little tank, then switch over to kerosene (main tank) when the engine warms up. Unless it's been overhauled and gas pistons installed, the pistons will be a bit shorter and have a dish in them (kinda like an Allis power crater piston, but not as extreme). On a good day you'll have about 90 lbs compression, which I've heard is good for a kerosene engine. I put taller gas pistons in mine (since I only run gas) and raised the compression to 115 lbs, and I can tell there's a little power increase.
The engine serial number is located to the rear of the air cleaner, where the engine bolts to the torque tube. May be kinda hard to read, but should start with either a "BE" (most likely) or "CE" and end with a "K". The "AM" number on the right side of the block you saw is the casting number. the last two digits of that string of numbers indicates the year it was cast, but it's still a code. It will be a number like 12, or 13, etc. I can't remember what numbers line up to which years, but someone here will know.
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Hubnut
Orange Level Joined: 30 Jul 2014 Location: Gainesville, FL Points: 1812 |
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Very nice tractor there! I think you did great! Enjoy.
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia" 1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick" 1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie" 1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie" 1972 314H |
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dt1050
Orange Level Joined: 05 Jul 2011 Location: central pa Points: 1078 |
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couldn't decide on an Allis or a Farmall so ya bought both...lol. nice machine. when I pulled the final drives on my d14 (have to pull them to work on brakes on a d14) I just chained them to the trusses of the garage roof. when putting them back on I used a heavy duty ratched strap on the axle tube close to the end and one on the other side close to the final drive. that way if I needed to raise or lower it a little to get it to line up I could just give it a couple cranks on the ratchet strap.
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Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers
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Allis dave
Orange Level Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 2849 |
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There's a guy screen name "Rick" on here. He does an excellent job relining brake bands and clutch discs for a great price. I bought one clutch from him. If I was doing a brake job, I would talk to Rick. Look through the classified section. Every few weeks he bumps his "For sale" back to the top.
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BEK
Silver Level Joined: 05 Nov 2017 Location: Wilmington, NC Points: 216 |
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If the brake drums are in good shape and you only replace the brake bands, make sure you clean out the housing really good. This makes getting the new band in a lot easier.
I made a tool from a piece of flat stock to scrape all the junk out of the housing. There's a a hole in the bottom of the housing where debris can fall out. Compressed air or a shop vac will help. |
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BEK
Silver Level Joined: 05 Nov 2017 Location: Wilmington, NC Points: 216 |
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A sample of brake housing junk. Here's what came out of mine. One side, but both sides were trashed.
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BEK
Silver Level Joined: 05 Nov 2017 Location: Wilmington, NC Points: 216 |
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New brake bands from Steiner.
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jaybmiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 21467 |
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hmmm.. I didn't see a 'mouse house' in the picture of 'what's inside' ,hehehe...
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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R.W
Orange Level Joined: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Swanton, OH Points: 2975 |
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Careful cleaning out the housings. Those old brakes most likely contain asbestos. Nice tractors!
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In Search Of: 1958 Allis Chalmers D17 Diesel serial #9643D
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brewvet
Bronze Level Joined: 22 Feb 2018 Location: Blue Ridge, GA Points: 20 |
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Thanks for all the comments and advice everyone, now to order some parts and get to work.
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