New Guy debating

The reputation on the 8N is:

"Yes, replacement parts are available & cheap... and it's a good thing they are, 'cuz you'll need them."

I predict you will enjoy a B or be delighted with a CA.  and not regret either choice.

When I got my 8N, it was "just an old tractor". I was 15 at the time, and had already had my B for 4 years. I never could do much with it, except plow with my Oliver 2-12 and mow with the belly sickle mower. I didn't figure the 8N would be able to do much either. 

Boy, was I wrong!
I got it running after sitting for 30 years, put a clutch in it, and hooked it to a finish mower. I was a little nervous, thinking, "Is a 66 year old tractor going to actually run this machine and mow the yard??" I made a pass around, and was grinning ear to ear. I couldn't believe I finally had an old tractor that would do the work of a new tractor! Since then, I've continued to use the 8N for everything around the place. We have a newer Deere 4720, and I never use that thing if I can keep from it. Only time I use it now is for occasional loader work. The 8N does everything that 4720 did before, with no sweat. 6' mower in 4' grass/brush? No problem. 7' angle blade? Drag a ton of dirt around with that heavy beast, and go back for more. 

Like was stated, the B is a swell tractor, but you can't do much with it, in terms of modern equipment, unless you convert to 3pt. The 8N was made to work with a 3pt, and while you can convert a B, the ends of the arms will be positioned very far back (more so than a factory 3pt tractor). You are also not likely to have a sway lock system with a conversion kit. This means every time you've got the 3pt mower or disc or anything else heavy attached, when you round a corner doing anything faster than a creep, the implement swings hard to one side or the other, jarring the tractor, and can bend or break some stuff (don't ask how I know) The 8N has a remarkably superior system for locking the implement...easy to use, and I love it. (although some fail to recognize it) The 8N also has draft control, which carries out the same operation as "traction booster" on a CA/WD/WD45. You can adjust the sensitivity so when you're plowing and hit a tough spot, the plow will bump up just a hair, and allow you to keep going without spinning tires. Can't get that with a B, and there's been a lot of times I wish mine had that feature, which is why if I'm plowing anything bigger than my garden, I'll use the 8N. Some will say "Yeah, but you're only plowing 3" deep with the 8N when you're using draft control"...this again is not true. I've plowed our clay soil a good 12" deep before using a Ferguson 2-14 plow, with no added weight. Position control is obtained at the flip of a lever, and will now hold your equipment at whatever height you want. This is basically for anything other than a plow. The B basically has this, and only this. The comment about the 8N being only good for garden work made me laugh...I've used mine for everything around here, except garden work. I leave that to the Allis G....

So, if you want a tractor to get work done with, I recommend the 8N. Incredibly more versatile, at least for what I do. If you want the garden tractor/parade tractor, I recommend the B. Although I don't think it would work on tractor rides, due to it's lack of a fast road gear. 

Geez, my reputation around here probably just went down the drain, thanks to what I've said about a *gasp*..."ferd", but I stand by every word. 

Yes, a relief valve will probably fix your issue. I'm not sure what size wrench is needed, but it will have to be a stub wrench, due to working inside the tractor. Also have to drain the fluid I think. On my 8N, sometimes the lift would freeze up/delay, as in, if you pushed the lift lever down, the load would stay up. I'd have to move the handle up and down a few times, and then it would drop. New relief valve will fix that.

Once you get it operating, it should hold a 2-bottom off the ground overnight. If you hook onto something heavy (disc or brushhog), lift it, then kill the engine and hear a rhythmic "click" noise (It may be fast, or really slow "click") the lift piston is worn and needs replaced. That's an afternoon job, is pretty easy, and fairly cheap. 

But...unless it just bugs the heck out of you, you could probably leave it alone. The lift has ample volume to compensate for some major leaks, without hampering field performance. 

As far as cleaning, I filled mine with diesel and ran the lift up and down a few times. That got some sludge out of the internals of the system, but it's a good idea to clean around the pump by hand, especially the intake area. Just take the right side round cover off (the dipstick goes through it) and clean the area out by hand as best you can, if there's 60 years of sludge like mine had. 

A lift in good condition that is properly adjusted can do some wondrous things. In this photo there is no weight added to the tractor. The hitching point is about 4.5 feet from the ends of the lift arms, yet it lifts this 720 lb Allis disc with ease. I'll admit, that did make it light on the front, but I think filling the tires would have helped that quite a bit. 

Well said! Lol