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New Guy debating

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brewvet View Drop Down
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Joined: 22 Feb 2018
Location: Blue Ridge, GA
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    Posted: 06 Mar 2018 at 1:33pm
Thanks for all the comments and advice everyone, now to order some parts and get to work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote R.W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar 2018 at 9:23am
Careful cleaning out the housings. Those old brakes most likely contain asbestos. Nice tractors!
In Search Of: 1958 Allis Chalmers D17 Diesel serial #9643D
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar 2018 at 7:33am
hmmm.. I didn't see a 'mouse house' in the picture of 'what's inside' ,hehehe...
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BEK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar 2018 at 7:24am
New brake bands from Steiner.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BEK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar 2018 at 7:20am
A sample of brake housing junk.  Here's what came out of mine.  One side, but both sides were trashed.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BEK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar 2018 at 7:14am
If the brake drums are in good shape and you only replace the brake bands, make sure you clean out the housing really good.  This makes getting the new band in a lot easier.

I made a tool from a piece of flat stock to scrape all the junk out of the housing.  There's a a hole in the bottom of the housing where debris can fall out.  Compressed air or a shop vac will help.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar 2018 at 6:51am
There's a guy screen name "Rick" on here. He does an excellent job relining brake bands and clutch discs for a great price. I bought one clutch from him. If I was doing a brake job, I would talk to Rick. Look through the classified section. Every few weeks he bumps his "For sale" back to the top.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dt1050 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar 2018 at 4:14am
couldn't decide on an Allis or a Farmall so ya bought both...lol.  nice machine.  when I pulled the final drives on my d14 (have to pull them to work on brakes on a d14) I just chained them to the trusses of the garage roof. when putting them back on I used a heavy duty ratched strap on the axle tube close to the end and one on the other side close to the final drive.  that way if I needed to raise or lower it a little to get it to line up I could just give it a couple cranks on the ratchet strap.  
Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hubnut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 6:30pm
Very nice tractor there!  I think you did great!  Enjoy. 
1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 10:36am
I don't know a whole lot about them, other than yes they are dual fuel. You're supposed to start the engine on gas from the little tank, then switch over to kerosene (main tank) when the engine warms up. Unless it's been overhauled and gas pistons installed, the pistons will be a bit shorter and have a dish in them (kinda like an Allis power crater piston, but not as extreme). On a good day you'll have about 90 lbs compression, which I've heard is good for a kerosene engine. I put taller gas pistons in mine (since I only run gas) and raised the compression to 115 lbs, and I can tell there's a little power increase. 

The engine serial number is located to the rear of the air cleaner, where the engine bolts to the torque tube. May be kinda hard to read, but should start with either a "BE" (most likely) or "CE" and end with a "K". The "AM" number on the right side of the block you saw is the casting number. the last two digits of that string of numbers indicates the year it was cast, but it's still a code. It will be a number like 12, or 13, etc. I can't remember what numbers line up to which years, but someone here will know.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brewvet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 9:24am
Originally posted by CrestonM CrestonM wrote:

That tank on the right side of the hood is the gasoline tank. It's a Kerosene B. The engine serial number should have a "K" stamped as the final digit, unless it's had a block swap. 

Interesting, can you school me on the Kersoene models, were these dual fuel? 

There is a separate number on the block starting with a 'K', Looks to be 'K 108'. 

The other number stamped appears to be 5 digits starting with an 'AM'. 




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brewvet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 9:20am
Originally posted by Ranse Ranse wrote:

Well, she looks good! I'm curious about the cap on the side of the hood. What's it for? I've never seen it before. Good looking Farmall too, did you buy both tractors? The brakes on my B are almost non-existent as well. That's a future project, one of thousands I need to get to.

The Farmall I actually took in trade. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 8:35am
That tank on the right side of the hood is the gasoline tank. It's a Kerosene B. The engine serial number should have a "K" stamped as the final digit, unless it's had a block swap. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brewvet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 8:02am
Thanks for the reply. Yep got a complete set of cultivators and mounting hardware which look like they have never been used.

It looks like the brakes are just worn out, I tried adjusting them and can get a little pedal on the left side but nothing on the right. So it sounds like the bands are easy to replace, the drums are a lot more work.


I will order some new bands, can you buy these at NAPA or would I need to get from Steiner, etc?

Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 7:58am
Well, she looks good! I'm curious about the cap on the side of the hood. What's it for? I've never seen it before. Good looking Farmall too, did you buy both tractors? The brakes on my B are almost non-existent as well. That's a future project, one of thousands I need to get to.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hubert (Ga)engine7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 7:07am
Congratulations, you did good! There is a screw and lock nut on the top side of the brakes that you can adjust but very likely the brakes are worn out and will have to be replaced. If the drums are okay you can wash all the crud out of the axle housing and pull the brake bands out from the top once you get the pins removed. The other option is removing the final drives which will need to be done if you need new drums. Did you get any hardware and feet with the cultivator or just the frame?
Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brewvet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 6:47am
Update: looked at the tractor yesterday and after some negotiation we agreed and she came home on a uHaul auto transport. That was a bit challenging because she barely fit due to the width if the ramps.

The good, she looks to be a 1939 serial number 29890. Runs like a top, no smoke,no leaks to speak of, clutch and transmission are good. The bad brakes barely work and will need some tires, fronts are the worst.

Looks like the lever to lower the implements has been customized.



And since I didn't want her lonely a 1940 Farmall A agreed to keep her company.


Question, is there a way to adjust the brakes?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brewvet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 2018 at 5:19pm
Thanks all. He's actually asking $1400, but still sounds like a good deal. I will check out the rear wheels for any play.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kurtleimkuehler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 2018 at 3:38pm
Buy an allis chalmers G.  They look like they can handle any task at hand.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hubnut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 2018 at 6:36am
Looks like it has a PTO adapter for modern output, so it is likely an early B.  I also see a hydraulic pump.  If he only wants 1200 and it runs nice without smoke, it's a great deal in my opinion.  Make sure there is no slip in the rear wheel splines and check the lateral play in the rear wheels as well.  The hubs on these have had MANY years to wear out, especially if they were not kept tight during use.  I can tell you from experience, those are not fun to replace.  Paint looks to be very nice.
1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 2018 at 5:53am
gee, even I would lay down 1200 for that B ! she's pretty and well equipped to boot !
think about this...you can't buy a good ,used,abused riding lawn mower for 1200 !
sure hope you get it.
Jay
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brewvet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 2018 at 5:48am
All,

So I have found a 'b' I am going to look at this weekend. The owner sent me some pics and would like your thoughts.

Looks like the PTO was painted over, also not seeing hydraulics?

Thoughts?

Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wfmurray Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2018 at 9:21am
I rode a cub like the one in picture.I now own a B.We had sickle mower like one in picture and cuil ,planter and plow .One year we cuil over 50 acres and mowed several acres with cub.Everone said they needed a little more power.If i had say 5 acres i would go with cub .Attachment are a  lot eaiser to  mount and no comparison in lift.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 9:03pm
I think you lucked out brewvet. If that seller hadn't backed out on you, you wouldn't have found the B with the cultivators. The cultivators are very important. What the cultivators mean is you will be able to use this tractor for something other than pulling wagons. You can't just run out and buy cultivators for a B anytime. If I had cultivators for mine, that would make the tractor more useful for me, thus making it more valuable to me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wdtractorman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 8:53pm
It wont be a popular answers but id get both. My b it better for plowing and disking, and mowing. And i like the cub for cultvating, and mowing with the belly mounted sickel mower. I plow and disk with the cub too but the b just has more umph.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 6:47pm
Read the manuals I posted links to Saturday and you will probably know more about the tractor than the seller.

Gerald J.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brewvet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 6:30pm
So found another b within 200 miles of me going to look at it this weekend, the pictures and description seem that it's in nice shape. It has been converted to 12 volts, runs and drives, has been repainted and comes with cultivators. He says tires are about 50 percent tread and hold air. He drove it in a tractor parade and had no issues. Price seems right at $1400.00.

Anything else to pay attention to, common issues?

Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hubnut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 5:44pm
Here you go.






1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bikley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 5:04am
Originally posted by Hubnut Hubnut wrote:

I agree with BEK.  There are WAY more Bs and Cs in the North GA, SC, NC region
than here in FL.  Indeed, the snap coupler Bs were very popular in this
region.  I've been watching several Bs near Charlotte and that one that
BEK showed is very nice and fairly priced in my opinion.  Costs me 3-4
grand (including tractor purchase price) to properly restore a B and it'll never be worth more than $2500
on it's best day.  Sad, but true.  I've owned cubs too (lowboys).  Twice.  Both times I found
working on them a pain in the rear. and I sold them.  The AC B is easy to work on and
parts are readily available.  Here are my Bs and Cs shoehorned into my garage.  Get the B.

 

Hubnut I need a better picture of the whie one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dt1050 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 4:45am
a B is a great little tractor, but a live pto is great to have when brush hogging or cutting fields.  bummer your deal fell through, we've all been there.  Don't be affraid to look outside your area for a tractor, if you find one and need it hauled put a post on forum.  worked for me when I bought a d14 in new york and i live in central pa.  fella that hauled gave a great price and was a real nice fella to deal with...he also had a set of rims and tires that I needed. dt
Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers
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