Time to "Get more, make more, with the 66"

Ripped the upper canvas out.  Got my first look at the inside of the concave.

You're right...it is kinda hard to clean out. I tried flushing mine out with a hose and the inspection port open, but that didn't work well. What DID work was using the combine! Running the straw through there cleaned it up nicely and got all the mud and junk out. 

Well, got a few minutes to work on it again tonight....

combinechris wrote: If your combine is going to sit outside. Open all the doors so water can get out , also open the clean out door along the bottom of the header so water doesn't sit in the header. Hey Creston, he has a 66 not a 60. The header on a 66 has a door at the bottom you can take it off.

Yes Creston the headers are interchangeable. But on the 66 header there's a clean out door under the roller behind the sickle.

Opened the inspection port. I think I am going to remove both cylinder bars, for a couple reasons. To make it easier to clean out, and by removing the bottom one, there will be drain holes in the concave. I gotta get all that junk out of there, I suspect the concave is pretty thin in some places. My plan is to buy a large canvas tarp that covers the clean grain tank, the scour kleen, and the cylinder. Need to keep the water out of there....

I've had to rebuild 4-5 of these. It's not hard just time consuming.
1) Remove the whole cylinder.
2) Unbolt the concave bars and ledger plate.
3) Measure the concave to make a new one. I know some of you will laugh, but I use a string and marker. Put the end of the string on the front edge of the old concave where the ledger bolts on. Now just let the string lay on the concave so it's running straight from front to back. Use the marker to mark where the bolt holes and each bend is as well as where the back of the concave ends. Now you have the layout for the replacement concave. Use a tape measure for the width of the concave and make sure to leave some wiggle room to aid in assy.
4) Find a sheet metal shop (not a fab shop) to do the bending. The time I had one bent last year for my 60 with the two row corn head. It cost me $20.00, very inexpensive.
5) Use the string to lay over the new concave and mark each line of bolt holes ( should only be three) on both ends.
6) Sit the concave bar on the new concave and line up the bolt hole center with the makers on the concave. Now go and mark all the bolt holes on the concave from the concave bars. You will have two rows of marks for the bars. Do the same for the ledger plate holes.
7) Drill all the holes where marked.
8) Slide the new concave in from the back and start bolting the concave bars in place.
9) Replace cylinder.

To replace the lagging on the ledger plate I use the belting for round balers.
I replace the rubber concaves with OEM parts from AGCO.    

Thanks for posting all of this Marv and guys. Very interesting...and what you guys can do is amazing.

My first thought was to bolt a new sheet onto the underside, or outside of the concave?

I misread what was said above about the cylinder holding it down. He said to hold it's shape. Stainless is an excellent idea.

IH made the #60 that had a 60" between dividers. The next model up was the #80 had an 7' cut.

Mikes5785 wrote: I was trying to following up on what would be an appropriate comparable size tractor to pull a #66 Mike

Any 2 plow tractor. I used my CA for many years to operate a #60 & #90 all-crop. My CA is around 29hp so it don't take much power to run an All-Crop.

combinechris wrote: What 60 did IH make Dennis?

For pull type combines McCormick/International made the following models.
40,41,42,51,52,60,61,62,76,80,82,122,140,402 & 914.
This is not a complete listing as they made a lot of different models.

Mikes5785 wrote: I was trying to following up on what would be an appropriate comparable size tractor to pull a #66 Mike

I'd say an H or M. Super H would probably walk with it very well. An M or Super M wouldn't even know the combine was behind it.
Personally I'd rather have a Super H or an M instead of an Allis W series...I just have trouble getting used to my left leg needing to be longer than my right. Also, the hand clutch always bangs my knee cap. I like the platform on the Farmalls much better.

Edited by CrestonM - 09 Aug 2017 at 11:34pm

You are correct....the metal bars just hold the rubber down. As far as to what shape the new rubber bars were, I couldn't tell you. All the bars on my 3 combines are shot, but they still do a perfect job in wheat and milo.