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Little surface rust under the concave, nothing major.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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 Well, I've been slowly gearing up to try a little crop farming. We have all the equipment for tillage and planting food plots, but nothing for harvesting. I have enough tractors, and I am kind of without a project. I have to paint the WC yet, but my outside paint booth needs to stay above 60 degrees at night to paint. So that will be later this summer.

 

Lucky for me, I always print out Craigslist ads of stuff I'm interested in, cause you just never know.....

 

I called last fall and struck a deal on it, told her I would be back in spring to get it. 

 

It had flat tires and was sunk in the mud, so we had to start there. I was talking to my retired neighbor about getting this combine, and he was adamant that he would come along to help get it. So, we loaded up the truck with a jack, a pile of blocks, jackstands, a grease gun,  and a set of six bolt implement rims.

 

So, here is how we found it, two years later. It actually looks a little better with all the bird crap washed off.

 

 

 

 

Got the jack under the tongue, and got that up in the air.

 

Pulled off the right wheel. Tried to put on my implement rim, but the hole is just a bit smaller and they don't fit! So I set it on a jackstand on some 2X8s.

 

 

 

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Moved to the left side. Got that up in the air, and that rim isn't budging! So I pulled the hubcap off and removed the hub and all. Wrapped up the spindle for now and set it on a stand.

 

 

 

 

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So, that's all we could get done on that trip. Brought the rims back to town with me to put some tires on. Tried Ted J's trick of blowing the tube up to fill the tire before mounting, works pretty good!

 

 

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Made up some new gaskets for the hubcaps and thrust washers, and put on a set of radial tires I had laying around, just had to go get some radial tubes to fit. They have some goofy looking valve stems about 4" long, but they should work to get the thing down here.

 

So today, the neighbor and junior and I headed back up for attempt #2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Got the wheels on and fully greased while they were up in the air.

 

 

My boy says "How come you take so many pictures of me?"

 

I told him, "Because this is how good memories are made, doing stuff like this. Did you ever notice how I never take pictures of you playing video games or watching TV?" He just smiled and went back to work.

 

So, we hooked it up to the receiver hitch to get it out onto the lane.

 

 

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Now, its time to get skinny. I made this hitch over the winter to offset it all the way to the right. It goes into the receiver hitch, and a support runs up to the spring eye. The only flat surface I could find under there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Strung a makeshift safety chain, and put a light bar on.

 

 

 

 

 

Flipped the straw hood up, put the auger inside. The hitch worked perfect, the right side of the combine lined up exactly with the pickup.  Very little tongue weight, and it pulled easy as pie. We took back roads the 20 miles back to town, and I stopped and greased the hubs halfway. The hubs were warm, but not hot. Kept it at about 25 mph, beautiful afternoon for a leisurely cruise through the country.

 

Got it pulled into my backyard so I can tinker with it in my spare time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, I am pretty busy with kids and camping and sports for the rest of the summer, but I wanted to get this home, so I can tinker here and there.

 

TomYaz and combinechris, you guys are my new best friends as I work on this little endeavor. Gonna be tons of questions as I learn the inner workings of this beast.

 

Thanks for looking!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

First order of business, the header was down in the dirt. Fired up the pressure washer and blasted out the 50 pounds of crud from behind the sickle.

 

 

 

 

 

Found these in the bottom of the clean grain tank. Anybody know what they are?

 

 

 

 

 

 

After the inch of rain today, plus all my washing, there was standing water in the bottom of the grain tank. Noticed water running out of the auger door.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Popped the door off. Nasty.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wonder if I should just leave the doors off the auger and elevators, so the water just runs out?

 

I didn't notice during my initial inspection 2 years ago, but the lever for the engagement gearbox is broke right off.

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is broken pretty much flush with the gearbox, where a cotter pin goes through it.

 

 

 

 

 

I think (hope) this is all related. The pipe for the crank for the unloading auger is bent, as is the main engagement rod. I'm guessing someone ran into the controls up front, which broke the lever off back at the gearbox, at its weakest point.

 

 

 

 

 

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I'm hoping I can pop the little cover off the gearbox, and fish the broken part out, weld it back together, and turn it back to size.

 

The upper canvas is junk. I may as well rip that all out and save all the metal bars.

 

 

 

 

I suspect the upper canvas may be wedged in the cylinder. Bit by bit, piece by piece, I will get this all freed up....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Popped the cover off the gearbox, undid the bolt that was underneath it. Pulled the shaft out with a pliers while holding whatever the bolt goes into with a magnet, nothing fell down that I know of. Can't see down in there....  Hopefully it slides right back in.

 

 

 

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I was going to weld it back together, but it looks twisted and cracked in addition to being broken. I can either find a used one, or have a machinist friend make me a new one from scratch.

 

More to come!

They really are fun to operate! Any full 2 plow tractor will handle them. 

The Ford N series do good, the Allis W series, as well as the CA work great, and a Deere A will walk with it like there's nothing back there. 

I have a Allis B that my friends and I dub the "Super B". It has a D14 carb, CA governor spring, and taller CA pistons. It puts out a lot more power than it did to start with, and it handles my 60A's well in good yielding milo. Only problem is when the 18 bushel bin on my machines get full, the tractor begins to lose traction on slopes. It really needs more weight in the rear, but it has the power to run it. 

I especially like the side discharge of the machine because if you have straw coming out, your tailings and clean grain elevators are working (most likely), as well as the grain drag. The side discharge provides an easy check, as it's more difficult to see with a straight through machine. The only bad thing is they are so wide, making hauling and backing more difficult, but neither are just terrible. 

I've never had any problem with dust until this year. It's never bothered me before, (Not even with the 100), and I've been in some pretty heavy dust without so much as a sneeze or two. This year something must have been different, because by the end of the day I was so eat up by allergies that I could barely breath or see. I got off the combine for a bit and took a few clean breaths, and waited a while for everything to calm down. For the rest of the day I only cut into the wind. 

Another thing I like about the pull types....since the header is as wide as the cylinder, the crop mat is thin and even, and therefore doesn't bottleneck or bunch in the cylinder. This allows you to generally travel faster (5 mph usually), and you don't have to worry about slugging the machine near as much as with a larger machine like a 100. 

Oh....also, Marv....if you will keep the combine inside, you might disregard this, but if it will stay outside, my advice is to torch some bigger holes in the header bottom. The factory drain holes are small and plug super easy. I'm honestly surprised mine wasn't rusted out as many years as it sat out. (Never been under cover in its life). I was always dealing with water standing in the header, so I torched 4 holes about 1 1/2" wide and 3" long in the header bottom. Now nothing clogs it, and it is very easy to wash out. Best of all....no standing water or grain left in the bottom! 

Remember when the first Allis combines (Then called "High Speed" combines instead of "All-Crop" combines) came out in 1935, the tractor of choice would have been a WC. The WC was dubbed a perfect match for the new 5' combines. 

Here's an old 1937 advertisement showcasing the pair.

 

More to come....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Heated the engagement rod and straightened that back out. Stopped over to combine chris's house one day en route to a soccer game, picked up an engagement lever and a reel chain drive sprocket.

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, now the gearbox and unloading levers work. The lower section of the unloading auger was almost stuck. Greased all the zerks and wiggled it back and forth. Didn't take to long and it freed up. Greased the upper section, now you can spin the pulley for the unloading auger by hand. Put a rain cap on the auger.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cracked open the tailings elevator, not much gunk in there.

 

 

 

 

 

Checked the clean grain elevator, as soon as I touched the bolt to undo the cover, water started dripping out. And it hasn't rained in a few days.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Extra nasty. Here is why the doors rot out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for looking!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There has got to be an easier way, but this will work for now.

 

 

 

 

 

Doesn't look very easy to clean out in there. How big of a job is it to just remove the concave? I might just do that, sandblast and paint it right away.

I think it could be removed...just have to take your time. Might make it easier to pull the cylinder out first. 

 

Put the chain on the reel drive, got the belt on the reel drive as well. Got the belt on the back properly, I think.

 

 

 

 

Heres the funny part. The belt was on the combine when I got it, but not on the pulleys. There are two slots for the tensioner pulley and the pulley was up toward the top of the upper slot. In order to get the belt on I had to move the pulley to the lower slot. Anything weird there I should know about, or is it just to allow for and inch or two either way in belt length?

 

 

Anyways, I dumped a little waste oil on the sickle and used a long bar to turn the pto shaft several revolutions. Lots of squeaks and groans, but it went around a few times.  Well, can I really be at the point already where I grease it up and hook it to a tractor? Granted, I haven't got the canvas situation figured out, but I can at least see if everything else works....

Oh really? One of my 60A's has a 66 header on it (Yes, it's got the flares) and underneath it looks just like my other 60A with a 60A header. 

 

 

I see this is called a "shelling plate" or "ledger plate". Looks like a strip of rubber that could be easily reproduced?

 

 

There is a panel that can be removed behind the sickle. But, as usual, ONE carriage bolt spun. I will have to run an extension cord out there and grind the head off, but right now, we are halfway through the 1 1/2" of rain we are supposed to get today. 

 

 

Also, installing an overlay isn't too terrible. Most people say to remove the cylinder, but I didn't. I just raised the cylinder a bit, then took my overlay and fed it in from the back while rotating the cylinder, thus using the cylinder to do the work of pulling it down and holding it in shape while I put the bolts through and tightened them up.  

Also...as far as draining water from the concave...I park my combine with the right wheel about 4" higher than the left side, thus helping the water run out so it isn't left standing inside. 

 

FOB -Freight on Board

 

 

A very nice find!!!

I would've gone for it too, and I have no need for one.

 

Removed the panel  under the sickle. Removed the lower concave bar.  It occurred to me AFTER I smashed a finger in the cylinder, that it would be much easier if I raised the cylinder!

 

At any rate, it looks like the concave bars just clamp the rubber down? I see its two separate pieces in the parts book.  Were the rubber pieces square when new, and this is how they wear?

 

 

I ran out of daylight today. I'll be raisin the cylinder before I go stickin any more digits in there trying to fish the other concave bar out, and clean out the sludge, to see what condition the concave is in.

Also...if the combine is going to be kept outside, I would remove the rope for the reel lift when not in use. Speaking from experience, the rope will get brittle if left out, then snap on you sometime when you try adjusting it in the field. 

 

Anything special I need to know about pulling the cylinder? The left side is pretty obvious, but what all needs to be done on the pulley end? Does the pulley have to come off?

 

Supposed to be warm this weekend and I am stuck in town on call, so I will probably wade out to the old girl and pull the cylinder. I hope to put in a concave liner and rebuild the cylinder bars, as long as I'm in there.

 

Beautiful weather today, tomorrow is supposed to be even nicer. So today, we set about making some canvas.

 

My brother in law works in a paper mill. He always gets the belting from the paper machines when they change it and scrap the old stuff. He uses it for an outdoor rug when camping, I lined the floor of my tarp shed with it (awesome stuff, nice enough to lay on and work on, yet lets all the oil from leaks go right through!)

 

Anyways, I told him what I was doing this winter and asked him to grab me a roll of whatever he thought would work the best. After awhile, he sent over a roll of what he calls "dryer felt". So, we took the roll outside and threw it down on the driveway.

 

 

 

 

 

Unfortunately, there is  only one straight side on the stuff. Hopefully the saw lines in the concrete in my driveway are square, cause that's what we went off of.  I asked awhile back about the sizes of the canvases, and was told 59.5" by 54" for the upper, and 59.5" by 152" for the lower.

 

We cut them 3" longer just to be safe.

 

 

Tried out the upper one, and it was plenty long. Cut 3" off of it.

 

Should be ok.

 

 

So, we cut the lower one to the exact size.

 

 

 

 

So there, they look pretty good. I'm not sure if this stuff is going to work. Need to figure out how to connect them and put slats on them. I'm kind of concerned if the material will hold rivets when going around the rollers.

 

 

But, at any rate, if nothing else, I will have a nice pattern to take to the local Amish canvas guy.

 

Something for the collection, I'm never going to cut it open to get the decals!

 

 

But, if you look at the part number of the kit, and the part numbers and description on the back, its actually for a 60.

 

Then we went and looked at this piece in the shed. I had no idea what it was.

 

 

Luckily, I had all my All Crop  info with me, and just happened upon this picture-

 

 

I thought maybe it was NOS by the way its crated up, but after closer inspection, not so much. Still in good shape though. I will get to try it out eventually.... I've never seen one in use.

 

Pressure washed the cylinder. Anyone know what the rubber on the cylinder bars looked like when they were new? I just assumed these were worn out due to the rubber being gone on the edge?

 

You can see the rubber gone on the edge of the bar on the left, and you are looking straight at the bar in the middle so you can see the thickness.

 

 

Some of the bars are pretty bent, I think the machine has ingested a rock or two.

 

 

That looks like a fun project.

 

Don't see anything special about the washers? Just looks like a bolt, lockwasher, and fender washer. Or am I missing something?

 

 

 

Torched off the other row of carriage bolts for the front concave bar, so the concave is cleaned out. Made up a cardboard pattern for a concave liner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We will call this one "Hibernation"

 

 

I priced out a piece of 16 gauge stainless, 24" by 61".      $180.00  No thank you.

 

Went to a local junk yard, where they sell scrap by the pound. Found a piece plenty big, still has the plastic film on the one side.  $40.00    SOLD.  It is a little thicker, must be 14 or 12 gauge.

 

So, next up on the tractor table downstairs....

 

 

Laid out three rows of holes. Two to bolt it down with the concave bars, and one set of holes to go around the rivet heads.

 

 

 

I actually measured the holes out in the concave, then marked them out on the sheet. Then it dawned on me, I have one of the concave bars downstairs.

 

Looks good.

 

 

Drilled the holes 3/4" to clear the rivet heads, and the holes for the concave bars a little over 3/8" to give me a little wiggle room. I really think the holes may distort a little when the sheet gets bent into its final shape. My fab shop buddy doesn't have a roller big enough to roll a 5' piece, but he does have a press brake. So, a series of slight bends should do the same thing. I told him to leave it just a touch "open" from the pattern, so it sucks down with the concave bars.

 

 

 

Loaded up the cylinder for the trip downstairs, so I can free up all the adjustments, and see if I can conjure something up for some cylinder bars.

 

 

 

We will let that thaw awhile, then get it hoisted on to the table.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, cut 10 strips for the cylinder bars, (2 extra just in case)

 

 

Also cut a piece or the ledger plate while we were at it. A 9 year old with a utility knife cutting thick rubber belting? Well, he really wanted to try it, and we all gotta learn somehow, but we managed to make it through without any sirens or deductibles involved.

 

 

 

Hoisted the cylinder onto the table, removed one cylinder bar and measured up all the holes so I can make new bars. They use some wicked adhesives in the body shop at work. I asked the boys over there if they thought it would hold rubber to metal in this application, and they all thought so. I see cylinder bar sets  advertised for $599 plus shipping, so a few bucks for angle iron, bolts, and adhesive is well worth a try as far as I'm concerned.

 

 

 

Actually was able to get new concave rubber bars from the nearest AGCO dealer (now an hour away). Part # 70535533, $17.26 each. They don't look much bigger than the rubber I took out, but the old ones were brittle and dry, so I may as well replace them right away.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I thought they used uber unobtanium classified adhesive, but I asked a couple guys over in the body shop what to use and they all said windshield urethane, which is readily available at Advanced Auto. Got a tube and the primer. Glued the strips on and clamped the bars and let sit overnight.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Out to the paint room.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bolted it all up, of course I kept the old bars, just in case.

 

40 holes and I only had to egg out two to make them line up. Pretty good for this guy.

 

 

 

 

Warming up all the jamnuts on the adjuster bolts, the carriage bolts, even took the gauge screws out and anti seized them, so everything should come free when its time to set everything up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just a tip...make sure you balance the cylinder when you get it back in. You can just add washers to the cylinder bar bolts. 

 

Nice to hear about this restore; wish I could see the results!.. I dont get on here as much anymore as I am too busy --  ...so I am late to the show---

 

http://www.allcropharvester.com" rel="nofollow - www.allcropharvester.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slid the cylinder home.

 

 

 

Marked the slots in the rubber for the ledger plate

 

 

 

These are the best cutters ever. I used it to drill the holes in the stainless liner, they look like they are machined when you get done. And they saw neat holes in the rubber  belting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Started bolting the rubber on to the ledger plate. I didn't want to use pop rivets, cause the rubber would smush down too far before the rivets popped, I think. So I used machine screws, but after I started putting them in, I realized that the bottom has to be rather smooth. This won't work.

 

 

Back to Fleet for some elevator bolts....

 

 

Well buddy boy, either you pick me up and stuff me in there, or I pick you up and stuff you in there.

 

 

Yes, I laid some cardboard down for him!

 

 

So, got that handled. Ran into some difficulty though. The cylinder is now too big. When I glued the rubber on, some hung over the outer edge of the angle iron. I didn't think much of it, I just figured it would wear with use. The rubber was hitting on the concave bars. When I lifted it up to clear there, it would hit on the top of the housing, where the tailings hood is. Plus, when I was moving it around, some of the rubber started coming off the bars. Yummy.

 

 

When I made those new bars, I didn't think much of that adhesive. After the glue had set, I gave it a tug and thought "Man, that seems like it would pull off of there pretty easy." But, I thought I would give it a chance. Now I know. I suppose I guy could rivet or bolt the rubber onto the bars, but that's a side project for another time. Who knows, maybe someday I will meet somebody who does recreational vulcanizing.

 

Well, somebody has to climb in there and put the old bars back in one by one from the front. It was up to me and Courtney.

 

So there I was, changing bars, while Courtney helped with the documentation.

 

 

 

 

O.K., back to good. I set the cylinder down on the front concave bar and zeroed my side gauges. Then, set the clearance to about 1/4", the setting for wheat.

 

A farmer buddy of mine jokingly told me this spring that he would save me a corner of a field to try out my combine. I'm going to try and hold him to it.

 

So, I don't have "gentle rubber on rubber threshing" yet, but I can at least try it this way.

 

 

On to the canvases. Freed up the tensioners on the bottom, they were stuck from sitting around.

 

 

 

Put my belting in, just to see how it fits. Looks like the measurements are good, but I really don't think this material is going to work.

 

 

I think tomorrow I may have to visit a nearby Amish canvas shop. I stopped at a local "pop up camper recanvassing specialist", but all he has is rubberized vinyl, not true canvas.

 

I wonder if I can just buy the material and put metal or plastic slats on it. It would be easier to order a set already made, but for me just tinkering around with the combine its just a little too hard on the wallet. If I had acres of crop to get in later this summer I could certainly justify it.

 

 

Thanks for looking!

 

 

Also, how were the bars held on originally? I threw a bar and a half on adjacent bars this season, and now my cylinder is off-balance. I'm thinking of just peeling the rest of the worn-out bars off if I can, since I don't need them for wheat anyway. 

By the way...your "old" bars are about twice as good as mine! 

acd21man...I've thought about that as well, but once you've done it the other way a couple times, it's a piece of cake. The hardest part for me is getting the reel up and out of the way. Usually I just take it off, so it's not hitting my head and back. 

Amazing what a little rubbing compound can do.

 

 

 

 

 

Might have to turn the kids loose with the waxmaster...

 

Gave everything a shot of grease. I was going to count the zerks as I went, but I got distracted after like six.  Pretty sure I got most of them, and every one took grease. 2 tubes of grease and an hour later, done. Also put some motor oil on all the non greasable linkages and such.

 

Used a long prybar to turn the PTO shaft. The slip clutch on the separator drive is slipping. The grain drag and straw rack are connected, and the big upper pulley is pretty hard to turn.  I suspect the grain drag chain is the culprit. I wonder if I should tighten up the spring on the slip clutch for now, so I can get things moving and lube the chains, then back it off again? I am also going to loosen the drag chains as well, see if that helps. Ran out of daylight today.

 

What is this peephole for? Don't see anything in the manual about it?

 

 

 

Here is a picture of the slip clutches, just in case anybody spots anything amiss, that may be causing the slippage.

 

 

 

Ordered some material from the Amish canvas shop.  Should be here next week. My woodworking neighbor had a white oak board he ripped up into slats for me.

 

 

SO, I don't have the canvases yet, but tomorrow I hope to hook up the WC and bring the old girl to life!

 

Thanks for looking.

When you're greasing the machine, if you can, try to turn the shafts while you're pumping grease. You can get more in the bearings and bushings that way. When combining, make sure to stop and grease at least once halfway through the day unless you're just cutting just a little bit. (about 2 or 3 acres).

That "peephole" is useful for cleaning out the auger trough, and that's all I use it for. I guess if you plug the auger up somehow you can use it to clean that out and get the auger turning, but I always just use my leaf blower to blow air through there at the end of the season with the machine running and the wind valves wide open. It gets a lot more grain out of the combine that way, as the augers do not run too close to the bottoms of the troughs like in newer combines. 

Out of curiosity...do you have a manual? If not, I advise getting one. It will be your best friend. It will show the number of Alemites and their location, so you know you're getting everything greased. Some are in places you can't easily access and are in places you might not think to look. I always tell everyone on these combines, wherever something moves, there's an Alemite. 

Hooked up the WC and gave it a try-

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VqJOQXO_p_k" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VqJOQXO_p_k

 

Of course, after the video, I had to move it to make sure the reel works, and try and shoot a couple pictures.  I got a new phone, so I want to try and work with some pictures a little bit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So there, that's a good feeling. One step closer...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Does a fellow just use motor oil to lubricate the drag chains and the other chains? What type of chain is that actually called?

 

 

That is one ton of work.  You have done an outstanding job to get a 66 going. 

One of the three units that Made Allis Chalmers Farm Equipment.

My congratulations on a GREAT JOB!!!

Let us know how it goes. 

You know, I cannot get over the time and effort you all put into restoring Allis Chalmers Equipment.  Cannot thank you enough for all you all do to keep a name I love alive.

Again,  Great Job!!

Good Luck!

Bill Long 

 

BUT, the old, old man got it in his brain that the finished size needed to be 60". So they somehow added a little bit and then hemmed it back to 60".

 

 I even printed them a picture and wrote the sizes right on the paper, but whatever I guess. I need this combine looking complete next week, so its go time.

 

Even at 60" wide, it still fits.

 

 

 

Laid out the wooden slats.

 

 

 

 

 

After laying them out, I looked in the parts book. Looks like in the parts manual there should be 4 slats on the upper canvas and 8 slats on the lower.

 

Need to install the canvases and mark them so I can cut some slots in them for adjustment, then I can rivet, staple, and/or bolt everything on.

 

Junior and I took a half hour and used rubbing compound on all the large panels. Compare the three panels on the left to the rest of the machine.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

60 rivets and 700 staples, but who's counting?

 

 

Got the upper one installed, I never noticed that the board above the upper draper was so old and droopy, the canvas won't even go under it.

 

 

Luckily, the woodworking neighbor had half of that white oak board left, so he sawed me up a fresh one in no time.  Ran out of daylight today, will have to install the lower one tomorrow.

 Awesome work by you and your family bringing this hedgerow find back to life. I had one of these in my possession but sold it about 4 years ago. My dad was a Allis guy and love to harvest with these All-Crops! Great documentation too! Thanks for posting all the good pictures. They will inspire someone else to start on a project. Which reminds me I need to get out there and do something on orange or red machines today too.

 Regards,

 Chris

 

 

 

 

 

I didn't even try the PTO yet, I just put it together and took it out to the show. That was kind of a goal of mine, to be able to display it this week.

Looks great!

Regards,

 Chris