| Author |
 Topic Search  Topic Options
|
shameless dude 
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Apr 2017
Location: east NE
Points: 13611
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote  Reply
 Topic: Time to "Get more, make more, with the 66"
Posted: 12 Aug 2018 at 10:49pm |
|
that board also helps keep a little bit of flying grain that might fly back out, and allows the bats on the canvas to put it back in the machine.
|
 |
|
Sponsored Links
|
|
|
Ryan Renko
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edwardsville, I
Points: 2313
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12 Aug 2018 at 8:24pm |
|
I have been following your progress from the beginning and have enjoyed every minute of it being shown to use Allcrop fans. We all can relate. Keep up the great work. Ryan
|
|
Reindeer
Orange Level
Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Calgary, AB
Points: 650
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12 Aug 2018 at 5:01pm |
I agree with Creston on taking the machine out and cutting with it. Before you do, run the sickle and get oil on the surfaces, to make sure everything moves as it should. Also check that the hold down clamps (center of the pic of the knife) keep the knife sections down close to the ledger plates in the guards. Keeps the knife cutting clean and prevents binding which can lead to more resistance. The pitman arm will thank you.
Looks great. Good work.
Edited by Reindeer - 12 Aug 2018 at 5:02pm
|
|
|
|
CrestonM
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 8357
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12 Aug 2018 at 3:31pm |
 Travis2766 wrote:
What’s the wood board that is over the top of the upper canvas just in front of the cylinder for? Is it bolted to the flange in front of the cylinder? My 66 doesn’t have this. |
It's just called a cross board in the parts book, and it adds rigidity to the floating draper frame. A small canvas closure strip is nailed to the back side of it. All 60/66 machines had this, so yours must have been taken off.
littlemarv...as to your question about the sickle, your sections should work fine. Mine are more worn than that one one of my 60As, and it never leaves a stalk uncut. I wouldn't even wire brush them. The crop will clean it up and have it shining in time.
Edited by CrestonM - 12 Aug 2018 at 3:34pm
|
|
Travis2766
Silver Level
Joined: 26 Aug 2015
Location: Amherst, Wi
Points: 389
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12 Aug 2018 at 3:10pm |
|
What’s the wood board that is over the top of the upper canvas just in front of the cylinder for? Is it bolted to the flange in front of the cylinder? My 66 doesn’t have this.
|
|
190XT Series III, D17 Series IV, D15 Series II, All Crop 66 and a whole mess of equipment.
|
|
littlemarv
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12 Aug 2018 at 2:35pm |
Finally getting back to work on it. Lets take a look at the loose bearing on the back. Loosened the belt, removed the chain, tapped out the pin up by the u-joint after I ground the head off, and pulled the entire assembly out the back. You can see where the bearing housing is rattling around inside the thin metal plate. So, lets see what lies beneath the clean grain auger clutch. Stuck my phone back there, and the picture reveals that the bearing is completely out of the housing here. Removed the nut and washer from the end of the shaft, and put the three jaw puller on to pull the clutch assembly. But, something is amiss. It won't come all the way off, it starts binding and pulling sideways. Better investigate further. Noted where the nuts were so I get the spring tension back where it was. Took off the nuts, caps, springs, and inner piece, and sure enough, there is a key in there. Good thing I didn't force it any more. I could touch up the key and turn it around, or I could spend the $0.17 and get a new one. So there, another little victory. AND, I discovered what the inspection port is for! Its so you can hold the flat headed screws when taking that plate off. There. All cleaned up, ready for reconditioning and reassembly. I wonder if a fellow shouldn't just reproduce those two plates out of the next thicker gauge metal? I wonder how they were assembled when new. Just a press fit onto the bearing housing? Seems like a weak design. Theres not much torque on them, more like directional force from the belt and chain. Popped off one of the reel bats, going to ask the neighbor if he can make me a set of spokes, I have one broken and the other one is about to break, but hopefully he can just make 12 while he is at it. How about the sickle. I don't think you sharpen serrated ones? Should I just wire wheel the rust off of them? I'd rather not put all new sections on it, but if the crop doesn't get cut, the rest of the combine is irrelevant, don't you think? I think I may be softening the old man up. I've told him several times I want to combine the one acre soybean field in front of the house. His reaction is shaking his head and mumbling about how "That field ain't a playground and you can't be messing with another mans crop, that's his livelihood" and yada yada yada. Well, he used to run an All Crop when he was young, and as I get further along on this project, I think he'd like to see it in action. Plus, the poor Mennonite who rents the land, whose entire family drives nicer cars and trucks than we do, and has a brand new free stall barn and parlor, AIN'T DOIN TOO BAD. I don't see why I can't take a crack at the beans right before the combine comes. Hell, I don't know, the machine may harvest the entire field flawlessly, or, it may go 8 feet and explode. There's only one way to find out! At any rate, I was up to Pa's the other day, and we were standing on the edge of the bean field BS'ing like normal, when all the sudden the old man says "You got a bean screen for that combine?" That's all I needed to hear, I think he is on board now. I told him I would be getting a bean screen for it. I've asked on here and (gulp) on Facebook, but I can't seem to locate one. So, I started doing a little googling, and sure enough, MCMaster-Carr has perforated metal, 3/8" offset holes. Should do the trick. Couple cuts and bends and we should be in tall cotton, I mean, soybeans. Thanks for looking.
|
|
The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
|
|
Allis dave
Orange Level
Joined: 10 May 2012
Location: Northern IN
Points: 2850
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 10 Jul 2018 at 7:35am |
|
I almost went to Farm Technology Days. I was near Madison for work once and followed the signs for what seemed like forever! I got there finally, but I was a week early and they were just setting up tents. Dissapointed, sounded like a funner evening than hanging around Madison.
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8167
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Jul 2018 at 9:54pm |
Congrats on getting it to the show! Looks great! Regards, Chris
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
littlemarv
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Jul 2018 at 5:46pm |
Lookin sharp and ready to display at Farm Technology days! I didn't even try the PTO yet, I just put it together and took it out to the show. That was kind of a goal of mine, to be able to display it this week.
|
|
The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8167
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Jul 2018 at 6:51am |
little marv, Awesome work by you and your family bringing this hedgerow find back to life. I had one of these in my possession but sold it about 4 years ago. My dad was a Allis guy and love to harvest with these All-Crops! Great documentation too! Thanks for posting all the good pictures. They will inspire someone else to start on a project. Which reminds me I need to get out there and do something on orange or red machines today too. Regards, Chris
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
littlemarv
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Jul 2018 at 12:14am |
Got some split rivets from Mcmaster Carr. Painted the slats, should be a nice contrast on the black drapers. Got the slots cut, and started installing the slats. 60 rivets and 700 staples, but who's counting? Got the upper one installed, I never noticed that the board above the upper draper was so old and droopy, the canvas won't even go under it. Luckily, the woodworking neighbor had half of that white oak board left, so he sawed me up a fresh one in no time. Ran out of daylight today, will have to install the lower one tomorrow.
|
|
The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
|
|
Ted J
Orange Level
Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18708
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06 Jul 2018 at 1:27pm |
LOOKIN GOOD Mon.......... Who did most of the rubbing?  I'll see you next Thursday! I'll call.....
|
|
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
|
|
littlemarv
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 05 Jul 2018 at 10:58pm |
Got the material from the Amish tarp shop. Not sure what its called, but it sure seems strong, and it is VERY flexible. They "hemmed?" the edges over. The material was 60", so I told them to hem each side 1/4", which would leave a final width of 59 1/2". BUT, the old, old man got it in his brain that the finished size needed to be 60". So they somehow added a little bit and then hemmed it back to 60". I even printed them a picture and wrote the sizes right on the paper, but whatever I guess. I need this combine looking complete next week, so its go time. Even at 60" wide, it still fits. Laid out the wooden slats. After laying them out, I looked in the parts book. Looks like in the parts manual there should be 4 slats on the upper canvas and 8 slats on the lower. Need to install the canvases and mark them so I can cut some slots in them for adjustment, then I can rivet, staple, and/or bolt everything on. Junior and I took a half hour and used rubbing compound on all the large panels. Compare the three panels on the left to the rest of the machine.
|
|
The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
|
|
littlemarv
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 01 Jul 2018 at 5:41pm |
|
Well Bill, it's partially your fault. You always say the WC, the B, and the All Crop are what made Allis Chalmers. And you inspired some 39 year old kid half a country away to collect them....
|
|
The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
|
|
Bill Long
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Bel Air, MD
Points: 4556
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 01 Jul 2018 at 4:26pm |
That is one ton of work. You have done an outstanding job to get a 66 going.
One of the three units that Made Allis Chalmers Farm Equipment. My congratulations on a GREAT JOB!!! Let us know how it goes.
You know, I cannot get over the time and effort you all put into restoring Allis Chalmers Equipment. Cannot thank you enough for all you all do to keep a name I love alive.
Again, Great Job!! Good Luck! Bill Long
|
|
CrestonM
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 8357
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 01 Jul 2018 at 2:06pm |
|
I just got to thinking...if your clutch was slipping while you were turning the driveline from the backside, then yes the clutch will slip even if nothing is stuck. Just the nature of the clutch. That might make you think something is binding.
|
|
combinechris
Silver Level
Joined: 20 Jul 2015
Location: wittenberg,Wi.
Points: 422
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 01 Jul 2018 at 12:57pm |
|
I use ATF on my chains and after I clean up the combine I spray ATF oil on everything, inside and outside .
|
|
35 combines and 15 forage harvesters. mostly allis combines and equipment.WTB 2 row cornhead for a 90
|
|
CrestonM
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 8357
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 01 Jul 2018 at 12:11pm |
|
I use used motor oil. It’s detachable link chain. It comes in different sizes, stamped on the links.
|
|
Ryan Renko
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edwardsville, I
Points: 2313
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 30 Jun 2018 at 8:51pm |
|
Any type of lubrication is better then none. I used spray chain lube because it was easy to use. Ryan
|
|
littlemarv
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 30 Jun 2018 at 8:48pm |
No, I did not. It started up nice and smooth, and I was watching the big pulley while I let the clutch out. Not sure why it slipped when I turned it by hand. Does a fellow just use motor oil to lubricate the drag chains and the other chains? What type of chain is that actually called?
|
|
The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
|
|
CrestonM
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 8357
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 30 Jun 2018 at 8:19pm |
|
Did you find out what was binding?
|
|
littlemarv
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 30 Jun 2018 at 7:45pm |
Hooked up the WC and gave it a try- Of course, after the video, I had to move it to make sure the reel works, and try and shoot a couple pictures. I got a new phone, so I want to try and work with some pictures a little bit. So there, that's a good feeling. One step closer...
|
|
The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
|
|
CrestonM
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 8357
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 30 Jun 2018 at 12:14am |
DO NOT try to turn that separator if something is binding! That will most likely lead to disaster, as the slip clutch is slipping for a reason. Now, if you greased the clutch very much, that could also be a culprit. An old farmer "in the field" fix is to throw some dirt in the clutch, but that's not the preferred way.
When you're greasing the machine, if you can, try to turn the shafts while you're pumping grease. You can get more in the bearings and bushings that way. When combining, make sure to stop and grease at least once halfway through the day unless you're just cutting just a little bit. (about 2 or 3 acres). Since you say the grain drag drive sheave is hard to turn, I'd be looking hard at the rack and chain. Make sure the chain is tight enough but not too tight. I wouldn't loosen it up like you say unless it's just unbearably tight. In fact, I'd probably tighten it if it's sagging much. When you tighten it, the chain will actually raise up off the floor. If that gets you going, you know the chain is catching on the floor somewhere. Find where it binds, correct the issue, and then let the chain back down. I've seen the chains run way too loose, and also some ran as tight as a piano wire. Both are detrimental. If you are looking at the chain from the left side of the machine, I usually let the chain sag about 1/2" or so. Just so the slats drag on the floor and run on the wooden guides. Sometimes the chain can stretch more on one side than the other, just try to get a happy medium between chain tension and having both sprockets on the driven shaft at the left side of the combine parallel.
Yep...a little wax will really make that old paint shine like a mirror! I've heard lots of guys say the durability of the old lead-based paint will never be replicated by the new paints, and I believe it.
I'd say for those canvases...make sure you have a lot of staples and rivets in those wooden slats. I think Allis stopped using that style sometime in the early '40s. If you don't have all the staples and rivets, straw will get lodged between the slats and canvas. It isn't only unsightly, it's also tedious pulling it all out at the end of the season. The slats need to be pretty thin (maybe 1/2" thick or less) or they will bind at the top of the header when they go around the drive roller.
That "peephole" is useful for cleaning out the auger trough, and that's all I use it for. I guess if you plug the auger up somehow you can use it to clean that out and get the auger turning, but I always just use my leaf blower to blow air through there at the end of the season with the machine running and the wind valves wide open. It gets a lot more grain out of the combine that way, as the augers do not run too close to the bottoms of the troughs like in newer combines.
Out of curiosity...do you have a manual? If not, I advise getting one. It will be your best friend. It will show the number of Alemites and their location, so you know you're getting everything greased. Some are in places you can't easily access and are in places you might not think to look. I always tell everyone on these combines, wherever something moves, there's an Alemite.
Edited by CrestonM - 30 Jun 2018 at 8:12am
|
|
littlemarv
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 29 Jun 2018 at 11:27pm |
Amazing what a little rubbing compound can do. Might have to turn the kids loose with the waxmaster... Finished up reassembling the drive side of the cylinder- fork back in, idler pulley on, belts reinstalled. I almost shat myself when I realized I pulled the cylinder out and then the big belt fell down. Now I've got the cylinder back in and the belt is not in place! Luckily, I turned it sideways and it just slides in between the pulley and the tailings elevator. Gave everything a shot of grease. I was going to count the zerks as I went, but I got distracted after like six. Pretty sure I got most of them, and every one took grease. 2 tubes of grease and an hour later, done. Also put some motor oil on all the non greasable linkages and such. Used a long prybar to turn the PTO shaft. The slip clutch on the separator drive is slipping. The grain drag and straw rack are connected, and the big upper pulley is pretty hard to turn. I suspect the grain drag chain is the culprit. I wonder if I should tighten up the spring on the slip clutch for now, so I can get things moving and lube the chains, then back it off again? I am also going to loosen the drag chains as well, see if that helps. Ran out of daylight today. What is this peephole for? Don't see anything in the manual about it? Here is a picture of the slip clutches, just in case anybody spots anything amiss, that may be causing the slippage. Ordered some material from the Amish canvas shop. Should be here next week. My woodworking neighbor had a white oak board he ripped up into slats for me. SO, I don't have the canvases yet, but tomorrow I hope to hook up the WC and bring the old girl to life! Thanks for looking.
|
|
The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
|
|
CrestonM
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 8357
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 21 Jun 2018 at 11:19am |
If you want an excellent quality set of drapers that will probably outlast you, contact Steve Molsted at Colby Canvas Company in Colby, KS. He makes rubberized drapers, and they are superb. I would never go back to straight canvas after seeing these.
Also, how were the bars held on originally? I threw a bar and a half on adjacent bars this season, and now my cylinder is off-balance. I'm thinking of just peeling the rest of the worn-out bars off if I can, since I don't need them for wheat anyway. By the way...your "old" bars are about twice as good as mine!
acd21man...I've thought about that as well, but once you've done it the other way a couple times, it's a piece of cake. The hardest part for me is getting the reel up and out of the way. Usually I just take it off, so it's not hitting my head and back.
Edited by CrestonM - 21 Jun 2018 at 11:22am
|
|
acd21man
Orange Level
Joined: 07 Jan 2010
Location: tn
Points: 831
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 10:47pm |
|
I’m not sure what the canvas was pieced together with when new but why couldn’t one take what they splice a baler belt with and just put them across the belt I know there would be quite a few but it would sure hold I would Think
|
|
2 wd 45,2 D-17 diesel/gas 3 pt, 220,d21, 4020,2 4430s used daily http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCudh8Xz9_rZHhUC3YNozupw
|
|
Ryan Renko
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edwardsville, I
Points: 2313
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 8:24pm |
|
I enjoy following your project and all the great pictures. Keep moving ahead and it will be out in the field before you know it!! BTW, I was a little skeptical about gluing the rubber on the bars but you never know and we all learn something new everyday. Keep up the good work! Ryan
|
|
littlemarv
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 4:53pm |
Need to get the carriage bolts in the back side of the right cylinder mounting plate. I can't reach them from the front. Well buddy boy, either you pick me up and stuff me in there, or I pick you up and stuff you in there. Yes, I laid some cardboard down for him! So, got that handled. Ran into some difficulty though. The cylinder is now too big. When I glued the rubber on, some hung over the outer edge of the angle iron. I didn't think much of it, I just figured it would wear with use. The rubber was hitting on the concave bars. When I lifted it up to clear there, it would hit on the top of the housing, where the tailings hood is. Plus, when I was moving it around, some of the rubber started coming off the bars. Yummy. When I made those new bars, I didn't think much of that adhesive. After the glue had set, I gave it a tug and thought "Man, that seems like it would pull off of there pretty easy." But, I thought I would give it a chance. Now I know. I suppose I guy could rivet or bolt the rubber onto the bars, but that's a side project for another time. Who knows, maybe someday I will meet somebody who does recreational vulcanizing. Well, somebody has to climb in there and put the old bars back in one by one from the front. It was up to me and Courtney. So there I was, changing bars, while Courtney helped with the documentation. O.K., back to good. I set the cylinder down on the front concave bar and zeroed my side gauges. Then, set the clearance to about 1/4", the setting for wheat. A farmer buddy of mine jokingly told me this spring that he would save me a corner of a field to try out my combine. I'm going to try and hold him to it. So, I don't have "gentle rubber on rubber threshing" yet, but I can at least try it this way. On to the canvases. Freed up the tensioners on the bottom, they were stuck from sitting around. Put my belting in, just to see how it fits. Looks like the measurements are good, but I really don't think this material is going to work. I think tomorrow I may have to visit a nearby Amish canvas shop. I stopped at a local "pop up camper recanvassing specialist", but all he has is rubberized vinyl, not true canvas. I wonder if I can just buy the material and put metal or plastic slats on it. It would be easier to order a set already made, but for me just tinkering around with the combine its just a little too hard on the wallet. If I had acres of crop to get in later this summer I could certainly justify it. Thanks for looking!
Edited by littlemarv - 20 Jun 2018 at 4:56pm
|
|
The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
|
|
combinechris
Silver Level
Joined: 20 Jul 2015
Location: wittenberg,Wi.
Points: 422
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Jun 2018 at 9:59pm |
|
Use split rivets on your shelling plate rubber. You can get them from Agco.
|
|
35 combines and 15 forage harvesters. mostly allis combines and equipment.WTB 2 row cornhead for a 90
|
|
littlemarv
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Jun 2018 at 8:40pm |
Got the concave liner in. Slid it in from the front, all the holes lined up perfect! Slid the cylinder home. Marked the slots in the rubber for the ledger plate These are the best cutters ever. I used it to drill the holes in the stainless liner, they look like they are machined when you get done. And they saw neat holes in the rubber belting. Started bolting the rubber on to the ledger plate. I didn't want to use pop rivets, cause the rubber would smush down too far before the rivets popped, I think. So I used machine screws, but after I started putting them in, I realized that the bottom has to be rather smooth. This won't work. Back to Fleet for some elevator bolts....
|
|
The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
|
|
