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7060 questions

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plummerscarin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 7060 questions
    Posted: 17 Dec 2023 at 8:35pm
My early maroon 7060 looks like is needing special attention. Beginning with what appears to be some serious blow by. If that isn't concerning enough recently the oil pressure light was taking much longer to go out than usual to a point it wouldn't go out at all today. I have another 7060 just sitting for now so I swapped oil sending units and that worked as normal so suspecting a defective sending unit. Which brings a question. I want to install a pressure gauge to check actual pressure. What PSI should expect to see? Hour meter shows over 11000 hrs. Accurate? I don't know. What was done to it by PO? I don't know. I have plans to drop oil pan and check rod bearing clearance. Another thing I checked, loosened the oil drain plug and got about a pint of antifreeze out of it. Didn't want to see that. Will find more information after pan drop. Coolant system doesn't seem to be pressurized with engine running but will do further testing. Injector pump leaks around throttle shaft.
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Lynn Marshall View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lynn Marshall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Dec 2023 at 9:35pm
55 PSI , hot oil pressure. I wouldn't worry about that right now. You have water in the oil. That is causing a steam to come out of the breather tuber. Take the pan off and pressurize the cooling system to determine how the coolant is getting in the oil. Probably a sleeve seal and maybe caused by a scored piston. Correct the leak and replace all the bearings while there. The injection pump leak is fairly easily fixed as long as you don't twist off any of the top cover screws and don't drop any of the parts into the pump.Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb 2024 at 10:47pm
Finally got it in the shop and dropped the pan. Coolant is dripping off the #4 cylinder over the main bearing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2024 at 11:56pm
Very early in the tear down. Pulled #4 rod cap off


Anyone know what the numbers mean? .010 under? The rod bolts are 12 point heads. Is this original? I think ARP bolts are like that.
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Feb 2024 at 5:05am
October 1975...std size
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Feb 2024 at 7:49am
There were 12 point bolts before ARP showed up. ARP is stamped in the head.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Feb 2024 at 7:52am
That brg appears to have no tin coating. Have seen car engines that way in 70's and 80's
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Feb 2024 at 8:27am
That's the way Federal Mogul bearings were. The Clevite brand bearings were 3-layer (tin-aluminum-brass). The 7080's were the first to get the Clevite bearings in the very late Fall of 1974. Kind of surpised this engine didn't have them instead of FM bearings.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Feb 2024 at 11:44am
Who knows...my 83 8070 still had an original front upper main shell which was FM and it was tin coated but the rods and other mains had been replaced with Clevite 112's
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb 2024 at 9:13pm
A solid 10 hrs today and am down to ready to pull sleeves


Pistons are scored on some, more than a half dozen broken rings
These are the top half of rod bearings


Edited by plummerscarin - 10 Feb 2024 at 9:15pm
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Lynn Marshall View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lynn Marshall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb 2024 at 9:56pm
Couple of things. I use a hydraulic jack and a fairly big rod to push the sleeves out from below. It might be a good time to get the radiator checked out. Scored cylinders can certainly come from overheating. It looks like the tractor is still using the luber finer filter setup. Those things can leak when you least expect it and cause even more headaches. I would be looking for an 8000 series bypass filter or depending on the work load, just eliminate it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb 2024 at 10:55pm
I got this tractor at auction in 2019 and shortly after getting it home found the rad to be leaking so it was recored then. I admit it overheated a couple times. Once when the upper hose blew off. Other times at first start up it would climb to 220 per the temp gauge then after a few minutes drop to around 180 and remain the rest of the day.
The luber finer is still there. What type of leak would I expect. External? This is a small time operation and puts in 30 hours heavy tillage and roading wagons to town per year.
Thanks for the tip on the jack
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lynn Marshall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2024 at 7:57am
Might be a good time to change thermostats. I have put on a fair share of mechanical heat gauges on those tractors because of the inaccuracies of the electric gauge. The luber finers usually leak externally from the top cover gasket. If you don't notice it right away, especially at night, you will notice the red, oil pressure light, shining in your face. By then, it's usually to late.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2024 at 9:13am
I've replaced the thermostats twice and have not solved the issue. I think I'll invest in an infrared thermometer to compare with. I have a 7040 the PO installed a temp gauge as you suggested. The two gauges do read differently
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ryan(IN) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2024 at 9:33am
Originally posted by plummerscarin plummerscarin wrote:

I've replaced the thermostats twice and have not solved the issue. I think I'll invest in an infrared thermometer to compare with. I have a 7040 the PO installed a temp gauge as you suggested. The two gauges do read differently
where did you get your thermostats from??
ryan
1984 8070 FWA,1979 7060,1975 7040,1971 190,1960 D-17D,1957 D-14, 196? D-19G, 1975 5040,1971? 160,1994 R62
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2024 at 12:13pm
Local Agco dealer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ryan(IN) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2024 at 12:48pm
A few years ago the thermostats agco were selling were like what you could get from A&i or other aftermarket’s and they did not let enough coolant flow. The thermostats they sell now are correct. Our 8070 and 7060 were both running warmer that they should with re cored and an extra row of tubes in the radiator. Took out those junk thermostat and replaced with the good agco ones and temps came down. Gotta really work the 8070 to get it go anywhere near 200-210.
ryan
1984 8070 FWA,1979 7060,1975 7040,1971 190,1960 D-17D,1957 D-14, 196? D-19G, 1975 5040,1971? 160,1994 R62
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron(AB) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2024 at 2:03pm
The luber finers usually leak because the orifice gets plugged in the bottom of the canister. Then they pressure up and leak around the top seal ring.

Only had it happen a couple of times on my 7050, but it could of been a bad filter with a lot of loose particles.
405, 7000, 7050, 8050, 8070, L3, 2300 & 2600 disk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2024 at 3:26pm
I understand what you're all saying about the luber finer. When I initially drained all the oil there was big spurt of air come out the drain tube. This was after it had sat a couple days. It will be going away.
I was granted the use of a sleeve driver and they have all been removed.

It actually lifted one tire off the floor before popping loose.
I reckon some of you may get a chuckle out this but I was not aware how much coolant would come out of there after the first sleeve came out. Where does one drain the block after the radiator stops dripping?
Thanks for all the help from everyone so far
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AllisFreak MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2024 at 3:57pm
I'm curious what this "luber finer" is and where?  
'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8070nc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2024 at 5:01pm
Ive never owned a tractor with one. Its my understanding that on tne intercooled tractors its a bypass oil filter. Ive seen pictures. It appears to be a housing with a oil bath filter between the engine and cab. On the 8000 series they changed to a spin on
1984 80780
1957 D14
DES 300 with 25000 engine
616 tractor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2024 at 11:36pm
There is a water drain in the very back corner of water jacket on left side. You about need to remove the starter to get to it. Also hiding behind heater and hyd hoses. You can rinse block a little with water and blow down inside to try to push it to the back drain to keep from having antifreeze running into main brgs. Jacking front end off ground helps.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 2024 at 8:43am
Yeah, a little late for that now. Good to know for future projects but really hope not to go through it again. All the bearings will be replaced as that was the original plan before the leak started.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPG AUSTRALIA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 2024 at 5:41pm
So was it a o ring failure or pinhole in sleeve?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb 2024 at 11:59am
I’m still in cleaning phase and my accountant was helping remove the sleeves and set them out order. I’m leaning towards O ring failure as nothing else stands out yet
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb 2024 at 6:38pm
My experience pulling sleeves out of a 426 is there is no way to tell condition of oring because they are a t**d to get out through the top bore. Damage done.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2024 at 5:41pm
Steve is correct. As the sleeves came out the O rings were stretched and ultimately damaged pulling through the upper deck bore. This particular one may have failed before tear down.

I'm no forensics expert but I think O ring failure. I backlit the sleeves and found no pinholes . I'm thinking the sleeves actually look pretty good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 2024 at 7:57am
Dug out a service manual I have for 7010,20,and 45 as well as an I&T for that series. Goal at this point is to verify rod and main bearing specs. I measured the rods so far and get a reading of 2.752" with micrometers. This is larger than what the books say. 7045 calls for 2.747". For a double check, I measured the mic with a dial caliper and got 2.747. I'm going with the notion the mics need calibrating and I have a good standard size journal. Next, check main size and cam lift specs. I'm good idea to get 7060 service manual.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lynn Marshall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 2024 at 9:07am
There won't be much more information on the engine in a 7060 manual that a 7045 doesn't have. Fuel injection pump setting, luber finer, and intercooler information is about it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrSnerdly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 2024 at 9:22am
Off topic, but have you considered a new vibration damper?  John Deere recommends replacement at 4500 hours.  I used to think this was unnecessary but the boys that farm most of my ground bought the majority of my equipment, one being a 4640, and it ran fine for several years but they broke the crank on it last year.  I am sure they are not cheap but a lot less than a broken crank.
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