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WD45 Steering Universal Joint

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Allis Wd45 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 6:50pm
Trying to replace the universal joint in the steering shaft on my narrow front WD45. I have read on here that an 861 is supposed to fit, that's what my local NAPA gave me by the measurements off the old joint. Problem I'm having is the old joint with the caps on measures 2.12" from cap end to cap end. The 861 measures 2.33" across. I can get the joint in and the caps bottomed out on the cross, but they hang out of the yoke eyes. I've never seen a joint where the caps aren't flush with the yoke eyes. Ideas? Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 7:01pm
Same thing happened with mine. Since it's inside the frame rail and the snap rings are holding, I don't get too worried about it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis Wd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 7:03pm
Good to know another one was like that, probably is fine being it's not a PTO or driveshaft.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis Wd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 12:53am
I don't see how that joint can be right, been messing with it for the past hour and a half and cannot get the caps in the yoke eyes far enough to get the clips on. Think I'll order a assembled replacement joint.
WD45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 6:23am
Not saying there's no problem with the new u joint but, are you pressing or tapping the new caps in? I used to build PTO shafts for feed trucks. On occasion if a cap was particularly hard to install, the yoke would squeeze together causing difficulty inserting the snap rings. Also, be certain a needle bearing has not fell out and sitting in the bottom of the cap. It will prevent the cap from fully seating. HTH
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 7:04am
I reread your OP, so the new joint is physically larger. I'll check the one I got from Fleet Farm and let you know
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IBWD MIke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 8:57am
Been awhile since I did both of mine but this story seems familiar. Got parts at NAPA, might have done a bit of filing on the yokes? At any rate, they work fine and got a lot of slop out! I hate sloppy steering.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis Wd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 2:25pm
Correct, the new cross is larger than the old one but apparently that's supposed to be the correct replacement.
I used a press, the yoke did start bending and I straightened it. I ground a little off the insides of the yoke and got the snap rings to seat. Realistically how tight should the steering be? I've got about 1/8 of a turn of play at the steering wheel. Some is coming from the yoke to steering gearbox roll pin. Thinking I could drill the pin and shaft to accept a 7/16" roll pin over the 3/8" that's currently in there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 3:08pm
Steiners carries new steering U joints.  Got a couple for my WD45s.  Slightly bigger than original so it actually moves the steering wheel 1" closer to the seat.
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 3:32pm
I bought a rebuild kit for my D17 from DJS. Perfect fit
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 10:07pm
Hethe u joint i got from Fleet Farm



I did not have to file anything and it went together quite easily
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis Wd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 11:20pm
Same dimension as the one I got SKF UJ861, I didn't take much off to get the clips on but shouldn't have to take any off. Looks like about the same amount of the cap sticks past the yoke eye as yours.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 11:34pm
If you had to file the inside it has been crushed sometime in the past. Best to use a large all thread with 2 nuts and washers on the inside and spread it. Check dementions with caliper in throat VS outer lips.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IBWD MIke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2024 at 8:54am
Originally posted by Allis Wd45 Allis Wd45 wrote:

Correct, the new cross is larger than the old one but apparently that's supposed to be the correct replacement.
I used a press, the yoke did start bending and I straightened it. I ground a little off the insides of the yoke and got the snap rings to seat. Realistically how tight should the steering be? I've got about 1/8 of a turn of play at the steering wheel. Some is coming from the yoke to steering gearbox roll pin. Thinking I could drill the pin and shaft to accept a 7/16" roll pin over the 3/8" that's currently in there.


An 1/8 of a turn isn't terrible in the slop department. Those pins can be an issue. I oversized mine too. Used 'drill rod' so I only went up 1/32" if memory serves. I reamed the holes .001" over rod size. When you mushroom the ends to hold them in they are tight. Hopefully, don't ever have to take it back apart.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ed (Ont) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2024 at 9:15am
Originally posted by DSeries4 DSeries4 wrote:

Steiners carries new steering U joints.  Got a couple for my WD45s.  Slightly bigger than original so it actually moves the steering wheel 1" closer to the seat.
Wow. Moves the wheel 1" closer! How big is the joint? Or is that replacing joint and yokes as well? Yokes are longer??


Edited by Ed (Ont) - 03 Nov 2024 at 7:59am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2024 at 8:03am
Originally posted by Ed (Ont) Ed (Ont) wrote:

Originally posted by DSeries4 DSeries4 wrote:

Steiners carries new steering U joints.  Got a couple for my WD45s.  Slightly bigger than original so it actually moves the steering wheel 1" closer to the seat.
Wow. Moves the wheel 1" closer! How big is the joint? Or is that replacing joint and yokes as well?


Comes as you see it (minus the orange paint - that was me).  Has the correct 1" hole on one end and 7/8" on the other.  it is the same length as the original and does not rub anywhere.  The steering shaft does not go in as far as on the original - that's why the steering wheel sticks out a bit longer.

'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ed (Ont) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2024 at 8:15am
I see. Thanks Myron.
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