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Steering Clutches again

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=78691
Printed Date: 14 May 2025 at 3:10am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Steering Clutches again
Posted By: Dozer
Subject: Steering Clutches again
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2013 at 6:25pm
Once again I'm replacing steering clutches in my HD6G I had dificulty removing the pin that holds the top part of the brake band. Tell me if you have a better way of removing this pin. When I did clutches on my other HD6G I was able to remove the cotter pin and push the pin out. This time I could not push the pin or make it rotate. I made a small hydraulic cylinder and a jack screw to back up the brake band. I used a grease fitting on the hydraulic cylinder and my grease gun for power.

I have a wire atached to the cylinder so I don't loose it in the hole.
There is a rod atached to the jack screw to help position it.

I'm going to replace the pin with a bolt. My reasoning is with the hex head I should be able to rotate the pin for easier removal.

I will probably be looking for clutches and steels when I get the assembly out.



Replies:
Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2013 at 10:19pm
Great idea. Tracy Martin


Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2013 at 9:43am
If you are working on the clutch itself then you can leave the brake band on the drum, just pull the 2 pins at front - then use the brake band itself as the lifting device when removing the clutch drum after the flange bolts are all removed. 
 In the repair manual they show this method. 
Also remember the bolt through the bottom of the case that supports the brake band needs to be adjusted so it supports the band when installed.  


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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."


Posted By: Dozer
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2013 at 4:07pm
I don't have the repair manual. Thanks for the tip. On my machine the bolt that supports the brake band is frozen such that it did not support the brake band. This contributed to the problem I had because the weight of the band was keeping the pin in place. I was unable to get the pin on the forward part of the brake band out of the slot. Perhaps if I disconnected the brake operating rod I could have.


Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2013 at 5:08pm
Both those pins are reached through the pipe plug in side of case , a slide hammer type tool is used to extract them . I made up new pins from SS stock to replace the original ones.  Get that bottom support bolt freed up as it is important to prevent excess wear on brake band.  

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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."


Posted By: Dozer
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2013 at 6:15am
Thank you again.


Posted By: michale34
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2013 at 9:28am
hey dozer Im pretty sure I have a service manual for the older style hd6 with the 344 buda and one for the older style hd 11b if your interested


Posted By: mleves
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2013 at 10:05am

Like they said before you have to pull the pins from the side of the tractor where the plugs are.  Here's a photo just above one of the tracks.  You screw in a 5/16 in piece of all thread,  thread it into the pin and use a nut to jack it out.

mike.


Posted By: Dozer
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2014 at 7:06am
I am still trying to remove the steering clutch drum from my HD6G. I used small hydraulic cylinders to push the clutch assembly into the drum but I am unable to push the clutch in far enough so that it clears the hub retaining capscrew # 630045. Previous owner replaced the low head part with a standard 1" NFx1-3/4 cap screw. This additional thickness is keeping me from removing the assembly. I am able to lift the assembly about 2 inches. I am unable to get that little bit of clearence by twisting the drum inboard at the top.
Does anyone have a trick for unfolding the lockwasher and unscrewing the hub retaining capscrew?????? I do not want to distroy the drum.


Posted By: Ages Cat
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2014 at 8:28am

When you assemble it, use Hi-temp anti seize compound of all of these pins for next time. We just finished an HD-5 which was so rusty that one drum had to be sawed apart with a reciprocating saw. During removal of the opposite clutch, I had some trouble getting it out, but with a little wiggling it came out. Iif the pinion shaft has a little end play you may gain enough to get it out. Getting a bar against the drive flanges and spreading them may give you additional clearance on either side.



Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2014 at 8:58pm
make sure the throw out bearing is out of the way. remove the pin in the arm that actuates it on the top of the steering clutch housing and make sure the fingers are all the way retracted. I had the same issue with a stuck clutch and had to cut the drum. if your clutches slide in the drum, it should come out as it went in that way. good luck

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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.


Posted By: ac_sd
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2014 at 11:53pm
Those pins don't always line up with the holes in the side of the final drive housing, try depressing the brake pedal slightly if you have a helper, block it if you don't , and they will line up with the hole and come right out.


Posted By: Dozer
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2017 at 3:05pm
I am posting so that Shanksmare can see the way I removed the brake band on my HD6G


Posted By: shanksmare
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2017 at 2:47pm
Well I thank you guys for helping, I have all the steering clutch bolts out and the 4 bolts out of the brake bracket because the brake band pins wouldn't come out but the clutch seems still pretty solid on the drive discs , now what?


Posted By: gemdozer
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2017 at 4:17pm
Make sure the hub brake drum and the hub stering cluch driving plate are loosed because the stering cluch have a lipp each side and you can't pull out the stering cluch and you should have 5/16 free play  each side 


Posted By: shanksmare
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2017 at 5:35pm
seems to be solid on each side, how do you get them loose, drive something sharp between brake drum and drive plates?


Posted By: gemdozer
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2017 at 5:15am
You could used  a piece off wood  4X4  and knock with a hammer on side drum it could help


Posted By: Dozer
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2017 at 12:15pm
Look at "Like I Need Another Project" on page 4 of this forum. Pay attention to the picture of the assembly after it was separated in my arbor press. It can take extreme force to gain clearance enough to remove the assembly. Remember you have to push the clutch pack into the drum. If you have to sever the drum you cut around the drum 1/2" from the hub side of the drum. The splined part of the drum extends 3.25" from the open end of the drum. If you use a disk grinder and make the cut wider than 1/8" it will be easier to remove the assembly in two pieces.



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