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55 HD5 transmission question

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=69356
Printed Date: 09 May 2024 at 11:35pm
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Topic: 55 HD5 transmission question
Posted By: heron
Subject: 55 HD5 transmission question
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 2:21pm
Weather is beginning to clear so I've been running my grandfather's 5 a bit more. For years my dad has always said take it easy on her and run in just 1st forward and reverse. The other day I thought I'd just see what she felt like in 2nd reverse. No go...now, I didn't play the clutch etc...but it will not easily go into any gear other than 1st in both directions. The shifter is real loose so I'm not sure what I can do to tighten up the detent but if there is an easy solution I'd appreciate it. The dozer runs great, leaks from the final drives but all in all the people around my house job cannot believe the dozer runs and pushes so well. If anyone knows of something fairly simple to do to check it out please advise. Any yes all fluids are brand new. I don't think my dad dropped the fluid in the transmission since 1965 but all is new now. Also, while I'm thinking about it where can I get gaskets for the Lubefiner oil filter. When I changed the oil filter I reclamped in the same area but now she leaks a bit. TY



Replies:
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 2:46pm
Several things to tighten it up . 
On the shift tower there are 2 bolts which hold lever in place . These index into a round tube that runs through the shifting link. These wear and allow movement . The shifting link is held to that tube by a pin which runs in two holes in link . these wear and a larger pin or welded up holes will fix that problem. I used a larger pin then I ground flats into that pin so new side bolts hold that pin in place and also tension it to keep it from moving . 
 Next the end of the link has a ball shape that fits into the shifting forks , this wears and allows movement within the forks and the possibility of no aligning and skipping the proper fork location and ending up with trany locked in two gears. If this happens remove shifter and take long screwdriver or jack handle and align the rails to neutral and then reassemble.
 I seldom use high speed reverse but do use 2nd gear or 3rd when moving machine . Other thing are you sure the trany is a late unit with the high speed reverse ? 
 I still have a set of gears out of single reverse trany on the shelf. 
Another problem can be the bushing in the idler gear for the reverse can be worn to the point the teeth are not meshing right .  
 
 


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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."


Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 8:19pm
for a quick check you could pull the shifter out and manually shift the forks with a long screwdriver or prybar and put it in one gear at a time and see if the dozer moves. you can then fix the shifter. common wear item. i use 2nd reverse alot even though it wears the tracks faster. i push alot with 2nd forward until i get too much on the blade then down into first. works good for me. look in or get a parts book to see how it comes apart. good luck

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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.


Posted By: AC Mel
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2013 at 3:17pm
Here's some pictures of one that is worn out. It did still work though. Kind of like a big loose screw driver in there, if you know where to feel for the right shifting for you could still make it work. Coke has explained it so well I thought some pictures might be helpful




Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2013 at 8:21pm
Time to find a friend with a welder, lathe and mill. That can be refitted with a little time and effort.


Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2013 at 9:49pm
Have did 4 of them so far, some lathe work to make new bolts, drill stock for that center shaft for bolt ends to fit into. Drill hole through shaft for oversize pin , grind flats into each side of pin for end of bolt to hold pin steady . Then build up ball end of the shifter.
Works slicker than snot on a doorknob when done. 


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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."


Posted By: heron
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2013 at 5:52pm
Thanks for all the replies. Not sure why my email didn't alert me as I chose that option...?
I'll have to get in there and take it apart and see for myself. Thanks much for the pictures! Yes, this machine does have the high speed reverse but I never remember my dad using it as he would always say this is not a "production machine". He never ran it hard as he knew it would wear things and the machine was not making any money to replace things that went bad due to "pushing" the old girl too hard. I know on the job we pushed the newer machines full throttle and every pass was money...I remember once getting yelled at because I started a bad cut with a big cat scraper and backed her up...boy was that a mistake! I think I was 14 but I never did that again.


Posted By: AC Mel
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2015 at 9:48pm
Coke, I found it again using a laptop that shows the advanced search box. Office PC shows advanced search box, home PC will not show advanced search box, traveling laptop does. If this posts again we'll see if this info is helpful.


Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2015 at 12:00pm
great find in bringing a old post back 
those pictures show what age, use, and rust can do to equipment. 
When I took mine apart it was how can I fix it and at same time make it better . 
the new bolts were one step, new round tube for bolts to fit into , then the cross pin of larger size to fit holes without welding them up and re-machining them. 
 The larger pin I held in place by cutting flats into it and having bolt ends index the flats , made the full thing tight. 


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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."


Posted By: Zagrayfarm
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2021 at 3:48pm
Hi,
Have this exact problem with a HD5 and i have all the parts currently removed.
I beleive i understand the repair procedure.

Does anyone have any dimensions for these parts i need to make? 
everything is worn so bad i dont know what it needs to be. or should be
Im sure i can make an educated guess but thought i would ask first.


Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2021 at 8:15pm
It's kind of trial and error method , the cross shaft that bolts index into can be any length as the side bolts are what holds it in place ( it allows forward and back motion arc )  the bolts need the ends turned down to fit into drilled hole in cross shaft , so again they need to be long enough and full threaded bolts ( length into shaft will be set later ) the pin that goes into cross pin will be sizes to take up wear in that yoke and will be larger that stock one , length of that pin will go through yoke and extend a small amount - to hold that pin in position is where the flat on each side needs to be ground so the 2 side bolts can hold it into cross cross shaft  ( tension on pin can be controlled by shimming bolts ) so they just meet pin sides but not so tight it prevents movement . 

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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."


Posted By: Zagrayfarm
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2021 at 6:39pm
Ok,
Kinda what i figured... just gotta guess to make it work..haha

So with the "new" design to cut 2 flats into the pin as a method of retaining it. is that the only thing to hold it in place? What was the OEM design for retainage? was it press fit into the spacer? So in the end the shifter will rotate fwd and back on the 2 cut down bolts.... and rotate left to right on the cross pin?

I guess while i am at this i might as well make 2 sets! we have another HD5 that i think is pretty sloppy.

One last question as i hijacked this thread... trying to drain the Tranmission is there a drain plug? the only plug i have found is the Diff case plug. but i feel there is still alot of milky crap in the transmission.
I was thinking maybe to remove that large side plate and maybe i can clean it out from that spot?




Posted By: Zagrayfarm
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2021 at 6:50pm


This is whatni gotz....the pin went bye bye! I'm guessing it lives down in the bottom somewhere ?


Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2021 at 7:34pm
So when I fixed mine I welded the holes solid on the side and redrilled just larger than the roll pin. I used a roll pin in the center and drilled the center hole Small enough to hold it. Have not had an issue. Done it to 3 so far and all working good.

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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.


Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2021 at 7:38pm
Also only drain is the differential. If you have milky oil use diesel or n it and run for a short time and refrain several times. Don’t run too long the needle bearings between input and output shaft won’t like it. There will always be sludge in the bottom. Check gasket on top of differential as they leak water in a lot. I also changed the boot on the slide lock to a seal as the boots I bought did not last.

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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.


Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2021 at 7:39pm
Also lube the gear shifter with heavy grease when installed as it tends not to get much oil.

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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.


Posted By: Zagrayfarm
Date Posted: 11 Dec 2021 at 3:19pm
Thanks guys for the advise... ill start getting something together shortly. 



Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2022 at 4:24pm
Originally posted by dadsdozerhd5b dadsdozerhd5b wrote:

So when I fixed mine I welded the holes solid on the side and redrilled just larger than the roll pin. I used a roll pin in the center and drilled the center hole Small enough to hold it. Have not had an issue. Done it to 3 so far and all working good.


Just for clarification, in which part did you choose to have roll pin be tight, in the gear shifting arm or the pivot shaft?

Also, what welding method would be best to use?

I have removed the shifter assembly from my Son-in-law's HD5G, and while it is nowhere near as bad as the shifters in the above photos, it is still in need of a rebuild.

Thanks for the help Smile




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