D 14 engine question
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=65853
Printed Date: 06 Sep 2025 at 3:11pm
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Topic: D 14 engine question
Posted By: Richardmo
Subject: D 14 engine question
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2013 at 1:11pm
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Still working on my D 14 lp
when running the oil pressure is good but after it warms up it goes to about to the line of having no oil pressure.
oil pump screen look okay I pulled the pan this mornings as usuall there was about 1/4" of old grude oil.
even though i have change the oil twice.
I now the WD and WC motors will do this if the cam bearing are worn is the D 14 the same.
or is there something else to look for i will be pulling the
motor and check all the rods and mains also.
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Replies:
Posted By: Acdiesel
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2013 at 5:19pm
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You could hook up a separate gauge that you know is working good. What weight oil are you running in it. If its to lite of a weight when the engine gets hot it may be too thin. Maybe someone else will have more input. ------------- D19 Diesel,D17 Diesel SER.3 2-D14, 2-D15 SER.II WF/NF D15 SER.2 DIESEL D12 SER.I, D10 Ser.II 2-720'S D21 Ser. II Gmc,caterpillar I'm a pharmacist (farm assist) with a PHD (post hole digger) |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2013 at 5:23pm
| Make sure that you have the "cotton filled" oil filter. Wix made a run of them once that were paper filters. They will not build oil pressure without the cotton filter. Darrel |
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2013 at 9:55pm
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I had the same problem with m D15 when I got it statred. It would go up when cold then drop back. I installed an temporary gauge with #s on the side of the control panel and found that I had 22 lbs cold and other then idling, it would stay above 15 lbs. Sure made me happy. LOL Bob ------------- 4 B's, 1 C's,3 CA's, 2 G's WD, D14, D15, B-1, B10, B12, 712S, |
Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2013 at 7:40am
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What I do with a new to me tractor engine is this; first, go pick up four new good quality filters that are for the application, and two cans of Seafoam.
Pull the existing filter/oil, refill with a good quality straight 30 wt., the Seafoam and add a rare earth magnet to the drain plug (Radio Shack has the small magnets).
Run a good thirty minutes with the new oil and Seafoam, after getting the engine up to operating temp. Shut down and change the filter, run another 15-30 minutes, then drop the oil and filter. Refill with the good 30 wt. and a new filter and go work the tractor for a good hour or two, keeping an eye on a good gauge for the oil pressure throughout this process. Pull the valve cover and you should see her looking pretty clean; good time to check the valve clearances at this time.
Change the oil and filter again after five hours of use, good, hot use.
I start this on a gas unit by removing the bowl, cleaning everything up and rinsing the tank at the time, then adding 5 gallons of fresh gas and a can of Seafoam in the tank.
I do this with the oil gradually as seen a friend years ago ruin a good 429 in a boat, don't remember what type of cleanout he used to treat the oil after buying the boat but he added the treatment and took the boat out onto the lake and flogged it for a good hour.
He cleaned out the old deposits in the engine for sure, but the pickup screen was plugged with deposits and starved the engine of oil and it was junk.
I run Rotella diesel oil in everything I have for gas engines, after getting a good baseline by treating as above.
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Posted By: Richardmo
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2013 at 6:43pm
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We use Ballwin T-300M oil filters I did go ahead and cut this one apart has the correct media.
2 different oil presure gauges same result.
may get the engine out tonight.
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Posted By: Richardmo
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2013 at 8:21am
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Here a picture of the rods in the block is this correct?
Also the crank will need grind and take the piston out today and sleeves.
The picture of the head look how much stuff is in there has stop up the little pipe
going to have this hot tank along with the motor.
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2013 at 11:41am
My IT manual says the piston pin clamp screw should face the cam. Yours has 2 toward and 2 away What's right ??????????????------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Richardmo
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2013 at 5:58pm
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The reason i ask the question in my IT manual it says for D-14 and D-15
Connecting rods are offset;numbers 1 and 3 having long part of the bearing towards flywheel;numbers2 and 4 long part of the bearing toward timing gears.
In the D17 section it says all piston pin clamping on cam side but not in the D 14.
anyway it will get all new parts the sleeves are to loose for me and scored.
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Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2013 at 9:09pm
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The full line of engines from the BE 116, CE 125, 138,149,160 are the same basic block and must have the rod bolts stagered. On the 201 & 226 the rods run the same with the bolt on the cam side. Your block is correct. LOL Bob ------------- 4 B's, 1 C's,3 CA's, 2 G's WD, D14, D15, B-1, B10, B12, 712S, |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2013 at 1:15am
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Thats quite a ring end gap. I had similar gaps on my Oliver 60 when I overhauled it. She was tired for sure... ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2013 at 8:59am
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I guess I read the IT book wrong every time. Glad I wasn't looking at it when I put the pistons in my WC. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2013 at 10:51am
| May as well put new cam bearings in too, your engine will last a long time, good luck, Trev. |