Farm Equipment - tired old b

tired old b

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Category: Allis Chalmers
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=58228
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Topic: tired old b

Posted By: jeffsh
Subject: tired old b
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2012 at 3:36pm

anyone have any tips on reringing a b?anything to watchout for?

Replies:

Posted By: Bill Long
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2012 at 4:14pm

If you are going that far how about a motor kit forva complete engine overhaul. If you are goin that far might be an idea.
Whatever you do best of luck.
Let us know how it goes.
Thanks for taking such good care of my favorite.
Good Luck!
Bikk Long

Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2012 at 5:27pm

If there is a noticeable step in the top of the sleeve where the top rig stops, rings probably won't help much. You need to find out size and roundness of the sleeves. If you do decide to try and get by with just rings, I would inspect the rod and mains and make sure the thrust bearing is in good shape.

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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF

Posted By: jeffsh
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2012 at 5:50am

i have never had one of these engines apart,is it had to get the sleeves out?any recomendations on where to get parts?

Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2012 at 8:13am

Not hard at all to get the sleeves out. On a free engine, a block of wood and a big hammer will set them free usually. For engine kits, go to the top of this page and click on [Parts Etc].

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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF

Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2012 at 9:14am

Jeff

You can obtain rebuild kits from the vendors who support this site (they are all good and very helpful should you have questions). Also, good engine rebuilders can also obtain the rebuild kit for you. My rule of thumb: $300-$400 per hole for a complete engine overhaul

You can also make a sleeve puller using 1/2-5/8 all thread rod, heavy steel plate(3/8 or 1/2) and some dense wood/metal staps. Cut a 2 pieces of steel 1" longer than the bore and about 2" wide and bore a hole thru the center of them to accept the all thread. Slide the all thread down the bore, install one of the plates accross the bottom of the sleeve over the all thread and nut the rod in place. Install the other plate on the end of the all thread end on top the block, place the hard wood/metal stand offs between the deck and the plate and nut it tight. Verify the stand offs are not over the sleeve flange and turn the top nut until the sleeve is freed up (should only have to move if 1/4" or so.

I recommend having the block tanked and checked out by a good shop before rebuilding it. These machines have 50 +/- years of hard work on them; and warped decks and cracks thru the O-ring seal flanges may be possible. Cracks between the sleeves on the deck can be tolerated if the deck is flat. It is also recommended that you have the crank and head checked out also.

When reinstalling new sleeves CLEAN the sleeve flange and sleeve seal areas real good; a dremel with wire wheel/grinding drum atachments work good. Test fit the sleeve in the hole w/o the O-ring seals; it should drop in easily and yo should have 0.002-0.004" of the liner protruding above the deck. I generally have the machine shop dry fit the sleeves and verify the stickout; they can mill the deck and liner bore to get the correct stickout if it is not there.

There is a wealth of experience available here; feel free to post any other questions you may have re: rebuilding the engine

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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC

Posted By: jeffsh
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2012 at 12:03pm

at 74 years old with 50psi compression i think it is time for some rings & things

Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2012 at 5:07pm

I think you will quickly find a rebuild more econimical once you try to price the stock rings. Your labor is about the same since most kits don't need any honing to prep them. So I always tell our customers to price out the parts for a re-ring compared to a full rebuild, and rearely do they just ring it.

JimD

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