OK more engine questions
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Topic: OK more engine questions
Posted By: LouSWPA
Subject: OK more engine questions
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2012 at 7:12pm
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the front crank oil seal, book says newer ones have a felt and a rubber, which the one in the gasket kit has. Book says felt is a dust barrier to protect rubber seal, so i assume it would go to the out side of front cover. If so, I got a problem because the rubber seal want to roll on itself if installed that way. The one I knocked out had the felt to the inside. OK, so in any case, now I need a new oil seal. How do you guys feel about packing the oil pump with vasoline? where can I get an oil pimp screen, mine is in bad shape Do I just put a cork plug in flywheel end of crank, didn't come in gasket set ------------- I am still confident of this; I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living. Wait for the Lord; be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27 |
Replies:
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2012 at 7:33pm
Lou, keep on asking questions as I'm a few weeks behind you and I'm learning a bunch before doing mine. ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: LouSWPA
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2012 at 12:35pm
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bump ------------- I am still confident of this; I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living. Wait for the Lord; be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27 |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2012 at 12:47pm
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I have found when installing seals onto shaft if i take a heavy flexible plastic sheet like a page protector (clear plastic) and wrap around the shaft , then lube it well and slide seal down that tube of plastic I can avoid damage to the seal from keyway or rough area of shaft. It also allows the lip of seal to open up and slowly stretch to its proper size and fitment. Unsure if the crank has a oil wick in the rear for oil to flow to pilot bearing ? I know on the HD5 -2-71 they used this method for oil , I plugged the hole after removing felt wick , put in a sealed bearing and have had no problems with oil leaks or bearings. ------------- Life lesson: If you’re being chased by a lion, you’re on a horse, to the left of you is a giraffe and on the right is a unicorn, what do you do? You stop drinking and get off the carousel. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2012 at 12:58pm
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If you haven't done it already, you need to line the front cover up with the shaft. There are several ways to do that, indicator or turn and bore something to about .002 smaller than the seal bore and .002 bigger than the crankshaft. Put that "line up tool" in place before bolting the cover up and it will be close enough. I have used a piece of .010 shim stock, either plastic or brass to roll up kinda cone shaped to allow sliding the seal on as Coke suggested. The rubber seal should be angled in toward the crankcase, keeping oil in and yes they can be tricky getting them on the shaft. Make sure it is coated in sompin slipperdy before you push it on. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2012 at 7:21pm
| I put rubber seal in bore and (lubed) worked lip over crank with small screwdriver.Then used the "feel" method to center.Drove felt seal in last with a piece of pipe(I think that's what I used). Dad did scores of em with the 'feel" method. Never seemed to be a problem.He did mine around 1982 at O/H and it was still working until 2 yrs ago when I put a crank in it. |
Posted By: LouSWPA
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2012 at 8:02pm
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Well, again guys you come through. My son machined a spacer to center the cover.....I haven't seen it yet. I assume the seal goes on rubber first, felt last. I think part of my problem was trying to seat seal in cover first and then installing cover. Anyhow, how do you guys prelube the oil system? in my chebby days I just used an electric drill and an old distributor shaft, but that wont work on the AC 226 engine. Vasoline packed in the pump was an old trick.... any thoughts? ------------- I am still confident of this; I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living. Wait for the Lord; be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27 |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2012 at 8:37pm
| the pump is submerged in the oil so if it can't pick it up.........I suppose you could leave the line off the block where oil goes to filter and crank with out plugs in til some comes out. I doubt you will have a problem. |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2012 at 8:56pm
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I use a canister filled with oil hooked into the block that feeds the bearings then force the oil with air to feed bearings. Then oil pump has time to prime without the bearings being deprived. Plus you really get a feel as to how free the engjne is when its on a hydroscopic oil wedge as it is when running verses wrench feel and molylube. ------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2012 at 10:04pm
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Packing the oil pump with vaseline isn't the best idea. When the engine fires, where is that slug going to go? On an engine that runs in the 10 to 15 psi range, you're potentially restricting oil flow to the bearings. Mitch's idea is how I prelube all engines. I got a pre lube tank from O'Reilly Auto Parts years ago when I bought a long block from them. I lost the receipt so I was never able to take it back. It's gotten used enough now it's no big deal. By forcing the oil in through the oil pressure port, or any place you can tap into the oiling system, it fills all of the galleries, including the oil pump with oil. It also works extremely well to fill the high pressure oil system on 6.0 Powerstrokes. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |