7060 won't start
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=55633
Printed Date: 09 Sep 2025 at 7:48am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 7060 won't start
Posted By: old mack
Subject: 7060 won't start
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2012 at 12:41pm
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My uncle bought a 7060 that was only putting out 125 horsepower. We suspected the injection pump and pulled it off to be rebuilt. We timed the tractor to 18 degrees BTDC, in the window on the pump there was only a dimple on the rotor instead of the typical line. We assumed that was the timing mark as it lined up with the 18 degrees on the motor. We put the rebuilt pump back on, this time it has the full line to time the pump. we are getting fuel to the end of the injection lines and a little smoke, but the engine does not even try to start. If anybody knows a secret or has an idea, please let me know
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Replies:
Posted By: Bob D. (La)
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2012 at 12:44pm
Don't really know mack. But many times on this forum, people have similar problems after reinstalling pump. Those that know usually tell them it is 180 out on timing. Hopefully, one of the experts will see this and give you some better input.
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When you find yourself in a hole,PUT DOWN THE SHOVEL!!!
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Posted By: old mack
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2012 at 1:30pm
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We tried it 180 out as well, not much change. Then we pulled the valve covers again, found TDC on #1 compression stroke and found that we were correct the first time. I was wondering if even though it was running when we pulled the pump, could the injectors be bad?
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Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2012 at 2:47pm
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Na, it would start and run a little, it was running before, theres air somewhere, did you take the bolt out of the pump housing and bleed it there? If it has the electric shut off make sure thats working correctly, i always get the air out of the pump, then crack a couple lines and get fuel through them then bleed the others while its running , a little shot of either comes in handy too
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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2012 at 10:08pm
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Remove pump gear then remove #1 inj. line at pump. Apply at least 50lbs of clean air into #1 fitting in pump and rotate pump drive by hand until pump stops. At that time pump is at start of injection and marks in timing window should be inline. MACK
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Posted By: Adam Stratton
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2012 at 10:29pm
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Are you absolutely sure your harmonic balancer is in good shape? We found out the marks on the pulley were actually incorrect with the motor time, then went from there. You might check that too. I dont think the injectors could be at fault if it was running before.
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Posted By: dorr
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2012 at 6:26am
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make sure your batt, is up good to if the eng, turns over slow it will be harder to start(learned the hard way lol) i e dont build press quick enough to fire injectorsall the way
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Posted By: old mack
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2012 at 10:37am
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Thanks for the ideas everybody. We were wondering if there is supposed to be fuel in the top hat part of the pump where the return line hooks in. We pulled the line off there and took out the valve and don't have any fuel.
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