Battery Rejuvenator?
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=54955
Printed Date: 04 Apr 2026 at 10:42pm
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Topic: Battery Rejuvenator?
Posted By: EdK
Subject: Battery Rejuvenator?
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2012 at 4:39pm
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Has anyone tried “Zap BTTL Battery Rejuvenator”? http://robsfamousshoppe.com/Zap-BTTL-Battery-Rejuvenator-Restoration-Kit-Zap-BTTL.htm" rel="nofollow - http://robsfamousshoppe.com/Zap-BTTL-Battery-Rejuvenator-Restoration-Kit-Zap-BTTL.htm |
Replies:
Posted By: Chuck(ONT)
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2012 at 5:04pm
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Wonder what Steve B. has to say about this?
------------- Never take life too seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway! 1C 1 WD45 1 AC180 |
Posted By: allisrutledge
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2012 at 5:16pm
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More than likely this is epson salts !! I ordered a 5.00 kit from ebay and that is what it was. 17 tbl spoons disolved in 1 qt of water, pour out 1 qt of acid and add this mix and shake the battery. 2 weeks later GO BUY A NEW BATTERY!!! Just my experience, Scott ------------- Allis Chalmers still exist in my mind and barns |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2012 at 5:55pm
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Ever since gas stations went 'selfserve'...NOBODY does any regular maintenance...like looking under the hood and checking fluid levels. Best thing to do is buy a new battery,new cables,have the generator or alternator checked for proper operation and MONTHLY checking of the battery fluid levels. Yeah, I don't do as I say...often enough...but I have saved a few lawn tractor batteries by looking at them at least once in a while... New battery for D-14 #3 cost me $80 at Wallyworld and I expect to get 7 years out of it so cost is about $1 per month..lot less than the beer tab for sure !!hth
jay
------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2012 at 5:58pm
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Spend a few extra $ and get a battery maintainer and plug it in when not using the battery for longer than a few days . Well worth the money and prolong the life by keeping the battery from sulfating ------------- Life lesson: If you’re being chased by a lion, you’re on a horse, to the left of you is a giraffe and on the right is a unicorn, what do you do? You stop drinking and get off the carousel. |
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2012 at 6:45pm
Ditto!!! I keep battery maintainers on everything that's not started on a weekly basis be it ATV's, motorcycles, lawn mowers and tractors. Better than sliced bread. ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Coke-in-MN wrote:Posted By: CAdon
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2012 at 9:50pm
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been trying the restore process following directions explicitly on a couple of spares with poor results. i like jay's math even without factoring in my own time & limited workspace considerations. ------------- 52 CA, 41 B and a little B1 oh, yeah... and an 8N ford snuck in there, too. |
Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 08 Aug 2012 at 11:50pm
| Turn them up side down for a bit, seems too - fix - them? I dunno, it works! |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2012 at 4:32am
| Lead still corrodes inside the case of a battery, it produces a sulfate while recharging off a generator or charger with this material collecting in the bottom. If it collects long enough it can and will short out a cell but most of all it is reducing the capacity of the cell for electron transfer for holding and delivering charge, it can also come from the connection grids and as these deteriorate they can disconnect leaving a open and totally unusable battery. When a battery is done, there is no 'rejuvenation' just temporary recovery prior to a full failure, battery starts getting weak buy a replacement. |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2012 at 6:15am
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I don't say much at all to that stuff Chuck. Another "special formula" that's a temporary fix at the most. As some of the others said, the best thing to do is purchase a new Battery, then purchase a Battery Maintainer to keep the inactive Battery Active if the vehicle isn't used a lot. As long as its electrolyte is active, that slows the sulfation process down quite a bit. Batteries are one of the flukiest things in an Automobile or anything powered by a Battery. You can get 8 hours or possibly 8 years out of a Battery. There's no guarantee's. A lot is taken into play here. The condition of the charging and electrical system the Battery is servicing, how long the Battery sat before it was sold, how much its used in operation etc. In my everyday vehicles, I change the Battery out every 3-4 years of service, whether it needs a change or not. Its just part of my PM schedule on my personal vehicles. A Battery in tip top shape is easier on the electrical system and its components that its powering. Its as simple as that....
mailto:Steve@B&B" rel="nofollow - Steve@B&B
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Posted By: Calvin Schmidt
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2012 at 7:02am
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If you have old tractors, you will have battery issues. I had a fairly new battery in my fifth wheel trailer that load tested low. Took it back to Interstate warehouse for warranty and they took it out back and then asked if I could leave it overnight. I was leaving the next day so couldn't leave it. I asked what he was going to do that I couldn't do. He said that if I had a big commercial charger that will hold 25-30 amps (boost setting) to leave it on for 6 hours and the battery would be good. Have saved more than a dozen batteries since. ------------- Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2012 at 7:12am
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I have taken to Interstate batteries. Of the 4 Interstates I now have, so far I haven't had to replace one. The two oldest are just about 10 years old. The rejuvenator sound like an overhaul in a can like STP or something like it that supposed to fix a worn out engine. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2012 at 9:12am
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When I saw ZAP your battery, I first thought it would be for NiCAD batteries. I made one back in high school electronics. It worked pretty good on NiCADs that didn't hold a charge long. Car batteries? Sounds like snake oil to me. I do remember a buddy back in high school would put 1/2 of an aspirin in each cell of a weak battery and get some more life out of, or so he claimed... ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2012 at 9:16am
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they use to sell a product called VX-6 that was added to battery acid and kept them from sulfateing . Never tried it or heard much , few people who bought it claimed it worked but after a month or so never heard them talk about in any more ------------- Life lesson: If you’re being chased by a lion, you’re on a horse, to the left of you is a giraffe and on the right is a unicorn, what do you do? You stop drinking and get off the carousel. |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2012 at 9:50am
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The battery converts sulfate to metal when charging. It creates sulfate when discharging. In normal cycles, not left discharged for a long time, the sulfate crystals are tiny and easily converted back on charging. When left discharged for a long time the sulfate crystals accumulate and grow into larger crystals that aren't so easily dissolved on charging. A sulfated battery will show a high terminal voltage while accepting normal charging current. Trouble is that current won't go down all day and by then there's water being lost but no charge accumulated in the battery. A time with both voltmeter and ammeter are useful indicators when used together. There have been the magic potions suggested. Mostly not much better than a kick in the battery ribs. Like kicking a dead horse. I've seen it advocated to pour out the acid solution, wash the cells with several changes of clean water, pour that out and then put in new acid. That has a chance of washing out excess sulfate exposing more lead and lead oxide to the solution but the total battery capacity can't be as great because of the loss of active material. There have been charging circuits proposed and made that claim to reduce the big sulfate crystals. The one's I've seen depend on a short discharge cycle after a short charge cycle. More charge than discharge. I designed and built one with a resistor for discharge in parallel with the half wave rectifier. I still have it somewhere. It didn't help my tractor's battery, but then I discovered the problem was worn out and broken brush leads in the starter, not a battery problem. I had the starter rebuilt with new bearings, bendix, and brushes and its worked fine every since. There may be other anti sulfating schemes around. Some of the battery maintainers claim to do an antisulfation scheme if their smarts detects sulfation. Sulfate crystals can also fall to the bottom of the battery. Also active material falls there. There's space left for that accumulation. When it gets too deep is one way a cell can be shorted. Loss of active material causes loss of battery capacity with time. A new battery will exceed ratings, and it slowly goes down hill, until it often gets to the point it doesn't have enough working material to do the job you want, a cold winter night start if it doesn't break plates off the connecting bar or short from accumulated material in the bottom. If you have a choice then you get longer battery life by choosing the biggest (and heaviest) battery that will fit the available battery space. If you have a choice learn to read the manufacturing date codes and grap the newest one on the battery rack. A battery isn't helped by sitting unused for several months. I bought a new battery for my camper a couple days ago and found some on the kiosk at wally world with an 8/12 sticker. Should be fairly young. They had a battery tester there and one one arrangement it said two new batteries were bad. Then different check without involving the automatic charger said the second of those was fine. I bought it and it took half a day for my maintainer to bring it to full charge. Soon as I fix the truck's turn signal output to the trailer I can head off for some threshing shows in Minnesota. Makers of discount batteries know how to fill a big case with a few plates, making a battery look big without it having a similar capacity, and know how to lie on ratings. Lead is heavier than acid, one way to check. Doing a deep cycle discharge is another test but ordinary starting batteries tend to warp and break plates on that occasion. Gerald J. |