Construction and other equipment - hd 6g truck assembly

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hd 6g truck assembly

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=54325
Printed Date: 25 Jun 2025 at 10:59am
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Topic: hd 6g truck assembly

Posted By: ratchet
Subject: hd 6g truck assembly
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2012 at 3:27pm

I am trying to get the sproket off so i can get to the itermediate shaft something is stripped on the shaft. I need to get the truck assembly out of the way all that is left a large bolt right in front of the sproket a pivot does this need to come off to be able to get the sproket off? Ive got two days in trying to get this out of the way.. Any help would be appreciated

Replies:

Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2012 at 3:32pm

i dont know anything about a 6g, but on my HD16, you have to roll the complete truck frame foreward to remove the rear sprocket

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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15

Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2012 at 8:15pm

If it is the same as my 7G, yes it either needs to come out, and it is not a straight bolt but a wedge assembly or follow Coke's instructions as to drilling, tapping and bolting a plate square to the truck side frame, then remove the plate, cut the side frame and as you get done with the final then bolt up the cut off truck frame, tack it square and then finish weld it.

Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2012 at 9:56pm

It would be a rigid frame and YES that bolt or pin into the bottom of loader frame has to come off , also bolts holding outboard bearing housing, and the pin under the tractor on the housing .

the rigid beam also needs to be freed from truck frame .

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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."

Posted By: ratchet
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2012 at 6:55am

d miller/ Coke thanks for the replys I have one machine i am using for parts so the cutting of the rail to get it apart seems to be a good idea on the parts machine. i am in the process of making a plate to bolt to the side of the rail for the machine i am fixing I just have a few more holes to drill and tap, This method you(coke) used did it work properly? And did you have any issues with it not aligned properly wearing the outbord bearing? Thank you for your help and expertise.. This forum has proved to be valuable asset!!! Coke do you have pictures of the process when you cut the rail or is there a posting you can direct me to? Thanks. well im headed out to give this project another day!!! Yall have a good day!

Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2012 at 8:11am

Nothing to show you how or no pictures of it being done. As I used a 3/8 steel plate and had the bolts spaced for what I felt kept the piece from moving when I welded it was main part. When welding I I did sections doing top and bottom of the piece first , then welded up side next . just kept watching for warping or alignment changes.

Long term problems can't say as i sold machine a year later but worked fine up to time of sale, never heard for guy I sold it to after that.

Location has to be far enough forward to allow sprocket to clear axle when removed but far enough back to allow you to get some weld from back side, though most passes were made from the outside, parts were ground to allow one side welding with deep root pass.