Shop is about done
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=53104
Printed Date: 12 Sep 2025 at 11:00pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Shop is about done
Posted By: Lonn
Subject: Shop is about done
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2012 at 4:28pm
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Except for the internal wiring I'll do myself some time this year. I hope??? Anyway, has anyone here put air conditioning in a shop this size? Oops, the size of the shop is 40' x 50' with 16' sidewalls. I have an old wall mount unit from the days when we lived in a trailer house. I forget the btu but it's good sized. I bought it new in '95. The North and South walls are 8" and the west n east are 6 " with the East being the divider between the 50' x 60' cold storage side of the building. Another thing I was thinking on was taking the backhoe and digging in a geothermal setup and rigging some kind of radiator in the shop. I'm cheap when it comes to putting in air in a shop and the wife has drawn a line in the sand for spending anymore on this building.  ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Replies:
Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2012 at 8:19pm
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Just cover that line with concrete. :>) Dusty ------------- 917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express" |
Posted By: Allen Dilg
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2012 at 9:05pm
| Hello Lonn With good insulation, paddle fans, some forsite, and keeping the doors shut, I think you can keep it comfortable. I HAVE 1 !/2" styrofoam walls and ceiling, paddle fans, it stayed cooler until about 9:00pm this week. Allen |
Posted By: allischalmerguy
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2012 at 9:12pm
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Hi, I see you are thinking about "digging in a geothermal setup and rigging some kind of radiator in the shop." I have a friend who did that. It does help some, his name is Ryan and if you pm me I will send you his cell phone number so you can see how his went. Pastor Mike ------------- It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa, |
Posted By: JW in MO
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2012 at 10:05pm
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When you jump over that line you might consider a couple of mini split systems. I figured 2-3 ton systems for my 40 X 60 X 12' sidewalls, 3 insulated garage doors, 6" blown insulation in the ceiling and 7" bat insulation in walls. I'm quite a bit farher South of you and not sure of what calculation for your area. Ceiling fans will really help and I like the mini splits because they take up less space and are very quiet. ------------- Maximum use of available resources! |
Posted By: cornbinder
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2012 at 6:33am
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i had a 12,000 btu window unit mouned in the wall of a 30x50 pole building that i rented for a few years when i had my automotive busniess.i believe a 18000-24,000 might do the trick unless you don't have a drop ceilong, if you don't forget it you wasting electricity. the building had well insulated walls and had a 16 ft ceiling that was completely insulated and as long as i kept the doors shut on hot days it kept it in the low 70's. !! i'm gonna be hiding in the a-c today, high of 98 and a heat index of close to 110 expected. pete ------------- D-19 gas w/f-sold 185-d yr round cab 95 mustang gt 5.0 86 mustang 5.0 coupe 3 99 f-250 7.3 4x4's 96 f-250 7.3 4x4 |
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2012 at 7:06am
| I was in one in south dakota a couple of years ago about that size, he had two window ac's and one did just fine most of the time. the building had spray on insulation with no celing (open all the way to the peak) |
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2012 at 7:21am
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I have a friend that used well water through a truck radiator with box fan. He used a small electric pump and garden hose for the water line out of and back into the well. It worked. ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2012 at 9:54am
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I've got a 48x67x14 w/concrete Morton with liner.6in wall bats,R 38 blown ceiling.We've been 100deg for almost 2 wks. Kept closed the whole time it's been 76-78deg but yesterday the humidity got to be enough that I gave in and opened the doors to get a breeze and work in the shade.Pretty sure a 24000 btu widow unit mounted in the wall would take care of it....just haven't done it. Don't usually have this much heat this long. Also never gets below 32 in winter with no heat with extended 0 temps.Have a little pot burner oil stove (no blower on it) that will hold 70deg if you want to run it on high.Ceiling fan helps w/heat. Thought about that ground loop/radiator idea but haven't went there yet. Built in 86 so may not get there.
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Posted By: Unit3
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2012 at 10:05am
| Stan, my cousin who grew up in Il told me of a friend of his that used a car rad in his apartment. His water bill was figured in the rent. He had a small hose to the rad and a smaller hose running away and out the window. He had green grass all summer by running the water at just a slow drip all day. |
Posted By: JarrodACFan
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2012 at 2:30pm
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Along the same lines as Stan's idea, I have heard of drilling 2 wells next to each other so the water would go into the same cavern it came out of. Of course, drilling a well is fairly expensive. We went to church with someone who cooled their house by burying water line through their yard and circulating it in a closed loop. Of course, they hooked it into their central air some way, but you could ged some radiators that were used in a house with a boiler for heat and circulate water through that. My friend has a setup that pumps water out of and back into a pond. It seems to work pretty well, but I think that the other methods I mentioned would be easier to maintain. Or, you could just use a plain old air conditioner and not mess with that fancy stuff! ------------- 1956 WD45 Narrow Front Factory Power Steering, 1953 WD Wide Front Allis Express in Muncie, IN |
Posted By: JoeO(CMO)
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2012 at 2:42pm
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During bad weather, insist on your wife's help ------------- |
Posted By: MBWisc
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 7:18am
| I have AC in a 40 x 60 and open- system geothermal in the house. GO with closed-system geo if you can. Takes lots of trench in the beginning but us more economical in the long run. |
Posted By: DanWi
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 8:26am
| If the window ac can't keep up, think about adding a dehumidifiierto help out, if the air is dry and in the 70s, and in the the shade it is tolerable working,and with a fan blowing in the work area. |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 9:14am
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Lonn- if you haven't poured the concrete floor yet... pour it with PEX tubing inside... and lay down some 2" EPS foam underneath it FIRST... that buys you LOTS of options! There's lots of good suggestions up there... a few things that should be noted- an average 12,000btu (one ton) window air conditioner uses about the same amount of energy as a central air system of twice the size... and they become a big heat-loss point during the winter. The problem with workshops, is variability- some guys lose lots of heating and cooling comfort through regular door open/closings. Sometimes the building is in a spot where natural airflow can do most of the cooling, and sometimes the roof is so low that sunshine heats the building faster than anything can cool it. Old timers would build high ceilings underneath the roof, so that roof heat would flow out naturally, and well overhead of the workspace. Modern pole barns tend to be clear-span, with low pitch and low to the ground. Even in my 1950-vintage pole barn, the roof edges are 10', peak is 15', and while the galvanized steel roof reflects lots of heat back up, it still gets silly hot, and radiates right down to the ground... when I rebuild this thing, it'll get a whole lotta engineering, so it ain't an overgrown EZ-Bake Oven. One silly thing I've done to cool down the pole-barn when I HAD to work on a hot sunny day... is put an ordinary oscillating sprinkler on the roof for a few hours... dumb trick but it works. Water coming out the downspouts is HOT! Back to cooling... I put an addition all the way around our old house... the entire south side is a passive solar room that provides about three quarters of our home heat during sunny winter days. The floor is black concrete 6" thick, with PEX tubing in it. During the summer, the sun does not shine on this floor (I designed the roofline that way!), but when we're in the cooling season, I trickle well water through the floor tubing. The cooling mathematics isn't complex- IF well water comes in at 58F, and comes out at 75F, so 17F change... and flows at 15 gallons per hour (120lbs of water)... that means 120 x 17 = 2040 btu. Doesn't seem like much, but I basically regulate the flow to set floor temperature... if I crank up the flow, the outlet temperature drops, and the slab chills. Right now, the slab is at 66F, and I'm barely trickling the water... have ceiling fans on the south porch, it forces cool air around the house envelope, so the central air system only runs about 50% of the time on a 100F day. Running cooling water through a radiator works... but not as good as controlling the temp in the slab. Bonus to cooling the slab, is that it can be hooked to the water jacket of a woodburning stove, and heat the floor in the winter. Insulation under the slab keeps the shop dry, and heating/cooling costs low. |
Posted By: nsula_country
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 11:37am
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Window units would not cut it in Louisiana. For that size shop, insulated well I would have two 4-5 ton package heat pump units. I would run a central duct down the long center with my louvers pointed to the side walls. One unit would work half the duct, the other would work the second half. You could run one or both depending on what side of the shop you were on. For comparison. My house 2218 sq/ft, 10 ft ceilings, 22180 cu/ft. 3.5T and 2.5T units. Your shop, 2000 sq/ft, 16' ceiling, 32000 cu/ft... I would go 8-10 tons. In my area. Foam insulation is awesome. We are building a new house and had it foamed. I can go into the attic with it over 100 outside and the attic may be 5 degrees above the rest of the house. Lets see some pictures of this man cave!!! CT ------------- 2014 LS P7010C, 1962 Farmall 504 Diesel (1st tractor) w/ 2008 Koyker 220 FEL, 1968 Allis Chalmers 180 Diesel, Komatsu PC38UU-2 Excavator, Various attachments for all! |
Posted By: Jim in MO
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 12:26pm
| Lonn. I have a 30 by 50 all metal very well insulated with a 5 ton unit can get down to 65 very easy my air man said it would down to 40. Lonn you have my phone # call if you want. jim in MO.. |