Gas into engine oil
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=52966
Printed Date: 13 May 2024 at 8:35pm
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Topic: Gas into engine oil
Posted By: macvette
Subject: Gas into engine oil
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2012 at 9:18pm
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Started my 180 up and black oil (mostly gas-although I didnt first realize it)started running from the bottom hole on the bell housing. Stopped the unit to check out what happened. Smelled the oil, and it was mainly gas. This is a tractor that sees occasional minimal extremely light use as it is just a big boy toy. No farm here. Gas was not turned off at the sediment bulb, as this never happened before. (It is turned off now) No indication that gas was leaking out of carb. (I have pads on floor to catch leaks from the tractor) After draining (left unit drain all night, still occasional drips the next day) and refilling oil and new filter, and cleaning mess up and cleaning engine, the next day I noticed gas residue by fuel pump mounting point on block. Could a diaphram in the fuel pump be leaking and let the gas into the crankcase that way? Engine runs and accelerates normally. Thanks.
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Replies:
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2012 at 10:25pm
| A block mounted fuel pump can definately put fuel in crankcase if diaphram gets a leak. Gas from carb would have to fill up to intake ports in manifold,go through valves then down by rings.Very unlikely.This is why it is recommended to ALWAYS check oil and coolant before useing any power equipment.You find problems before any damage can occur. |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2012 at 11:26pm
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A broken diaphragm in a block mounted fuel pump is a direct path to the crankcase. I prefer an electric pump as the replacement. With it you can run the carburetor dry by wiring it with a separate switch. Leaving that switch off makes it hard to take the tractor for a ride. And you can run the fuel pump to fill the carburetor before you start cranking which makes for much easier starts after emptying the carburetor. Gerald J. |
Posted By: macvette
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2012 at 11:27am
| Thanks for the info. |
Posted By: macvette
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2012 at 5:56pm
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Does anyone know if diaphram repair kits are sold for the fuel pumps? And if so, where is a good supplier. Failing a rebuild, I may go electric. Thanks.
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2012 at 6:53pm
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Long time ago there were fuel pump parts. I don;t think so now. When my green tractor's pump stopped pumping, I went looking for such a kit shown in the 1968 parts catalog. Not available and the only pump offered looked like it had been cast in a backyard foundry and hadn't been machined and cost close to three time the price of an electric. That's the third engine that didn't already have an electric pump that got one. I make a mounting for the electric pump that also closed off the pump opening in the block, so the lines fit easily with only a little adaptation. Gerald J. |
Posted By: macvette
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2012 at 6:59pm
| Thanks Gerald. Even tho the tractor runs fine, this will probably be what I will need to do. Can not afford to buy 12 qts. of oil and filter everytime I start the tractor! |
Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2012 at 7:47pm
I put a switch on the Onan generator that is in our motor home. That way I can turn the pump off and let the generator run out of gas when I know that I'm not going to run it for a while. Dusty ------------- 917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express" |
Gerald J. wrote:Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2012 at 9:16pm
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Yes the separate switch for the electric fuel pump is handy. On my green tractor the fuel pump is on the ignition circuit, so I turn on the ignition and listen for the pump to change its sound when the carburetor is full. Same thing on my old Onan generator. On a Ford truck I put it on a separate unlabeled switch which helped make it difficult to steal the truck. I'd turn the pump on and listen for its sound to change, then start the cranking which made for quick starts when it had set a while. And I could turn the pump off with the engine still running so it would drain the carburetor to reduce crud build up while setting. On my Onan, I just lift the suction line from the gas can to let it drain the carburetor. On my green tractor I haven't worried about that. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2012 at 10:09pm
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Ask Skyhighballoon Mike about repairing the fuel pump. I forget now if it was a 180 or 185 gas he had the fuel pump fail on. The original pump through Agco was maybe $175? He found the original supplier to A-C was still making pumps and he found one that was almost the same as the original pump on the tractor. He was in the process of transfering the internals of the new pump to rebuild his original when I stopped about a month ago. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: macvette
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2012 at 12:26am
| Thanks Guys! |
Posted By: macvette
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2012 at 8:45pm
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Found a company in MA. that is quite accomodating. (Then & Now Automotive 781-335-8860) I contacted them, and sent Mike pictures of the fuel pump, and he said he was quite sure he could put a kit together for the pump. Received the kit promptly. $37.50 for the kit, and $8.50 for shipping and handling. Mike indicated they could also rebuild, test and warranty my fuel pump for 85.00 plus shipping and handling. For the price, I ordered the kit. Mike helped me thru the rebuild via email, even after he was home for the evening. A real parts Pro! Tractor runs fine now, and no gas running into the crankcase! |