Steering clutches
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=52739
Printed Date: 06 Jul 2025 at 2:52pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Steering clutches
Posted By: Dozer
Subject: Steering clutches
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2012 at 3:17pm
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I'm trying to replace the steering clutches on my HD6G. Is there any good tricks for doing this? I can only get to 2 of the bolts on each side of the clutch pack. Will I have to move the machine to get the next set of bolts into position so that I can remove them? I was considering jacking up one side and moving the track to get the bolts into position. Or is there a special tool for getting the bolts? I have not removed the fuel tank so I can still start the motor to reposition the steering clutch bolts. Sugestions welcomed |
Replies:
Posted By: gemdozer
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2012 at 6:03pm
| You could lift the hydrolic and removed the fuel tank and removed the linkage from brake band and with a hydrolic jack under a track pad you can turning the stering cluch drum easy |
Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2012 at 7:13pm
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you must turn the track to get to the bolts. you need to remove the fuel tank to get them out. remove the inside bolts first and then slide the clutch into the drum and then remove the outside bolts and remove the assembly using the brake drum as a sling. be sure to loosten the bolt on the bottom of the brake band (under tractor) and then readjust once it is back in. you may have problems getting the clutch pack to slide in if they are frozen. be sure to check the throwout bearings for the clutches before reinstalling. ------------- HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE. |
Posted By: Dozer
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2012 at 8:42pm
| My problem is that the clutch pack is frozen. Since I havn't removed the fuel tank yet I was thinking of putting a pipe plug in the drain and putting diesel fuel in the clutch case and driving the machine to try to loosen it. |
Posted By: Jay Tyrrell
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2012 at 9:36pm
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My opinion, Remove the tank so you can get a good open area to work on the clutches. My clutches were stuck REALLY bad! Once the tank is off. You can get to all the bolts by simply jerking the the dozer (approx. 6") at a time. As the cluth spins you can ezilly get to all bolts on both sides. Now this getts ugly. I used cole chisle and a hammer to get the clutch pack started moving. Still jerking it with a tractor letting the pack spin. After the clutch pack would spin freely, I used a RailRoad bar to work the clutch to get it more compressed. I probably spun each clutch approx. 25 times moving it 2" at a time. Using the Brake bands as a sling and a hydraulic jack I pulled it out. The other, I broke the band and had to used a chain doubled up and a 5 ton jack. Be patient. Coke in Minn provided morill suport as I made progress a little at a time. Heres the good part! After cleaning and reassembly the old HD6G worked like million bucks. She'll spin both tracks in low gear, good enuf for me. Good Luck!
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Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2012 at 9:59am
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I block the track off the floor by using hyd jack to raise one side of machine at a time. Then using a come along or large pipe wrench as lever advance track forward to bring the bolts into position to remove. ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: michale34
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2012 at 2:20pm
| I wish you guys were closer I know a guy who worked for my dad who could change a steering clutch in no time he changed one on my 6g last year in half a day and only charged me 50 bucks said he missed working on those old machines. i bet he put 30 clutches in this machine before dad went to the matlic disk |
Posted By: Dale
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2012 at 7:56pm
| Anyone that can change a steering clutch (one side) on an HD6G in 1/2 a day is superman. It took me likely 40 hours (seemed like 40 days) to change both of mine. The worst part was getting the clutches out, especially all the makeshift brake fixes that someone had done. The good news is the clutch pak parts are readily available and it works like a dream with new clutches. Like one of the other posts said-check out all the other stuff in there while its open. |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2012 at 10:22am
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Back a few years i did it quite often of working on the clutch packs , then I put the HD11 discs in and have not touched them since , have put one set of brake bands in and that;s it . I have a bunch of used fiber discs I need to liquidate from my collection if anyone needs some .. figure a price and postage and give me PM or mail ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: michale34
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2012 at 2:04pm
| I had already pulled the fuel tank off the loader for him and i remember him taking a oil jug wit diesel in it sticking the fuel line in it and put the tractor in geer and pulled the master clutch back ans hit the starter to move the machine to get to the bottom bolts but like i said he worked for my dad and ac is all dad had and he knew exactly what to do i also had a clutch pack already to go back so that helped |
Posted By: slowdancer
Date Posted: 11 Dec 2014 at 7:37pm
I caught the earlier posts started almost 2 years ago. I have a AC HG5G I purchased about 2 years ago with a frozen left clutch. After going against a tree and using diesel with Liquid Wrench without breaking the clutch loose (not trying running it with the left clutch lever held back as was suggested in another forum) I am now working on getting the fuel tank loose. Nothing is easy. The weather is warmer just now in December but still cold working with cold wrenches in tight, backwards places to take the battery compartments/fuel tank off. I have my Alley-Cat off the ground and will use a high jack to rotate the tracks when I get that far. I wish I had realized I needed to take that bolt off from underneath the transmission housing before I backed it over railroad ties to put blocks on to lift the tractor. I hope I can still get to them when I reach that point. I plan on doing both steering clutches with the bimetallic plates so I don't ever have to do this again. The right link has let loose too, so that needs fixing. I am hoping this conversation can be continued. |
Coke-in-MN wrote:Posted By: mdtractormechanic
Date Posted: 11 Dec 2014 at 10:07pm
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didn't look at date ------------- Joe's 1939 Model WC, 1940 Model RC, 1944 & 1950 Model C's, B-125 PU |
Posted By: Dozer
Date Posted: 12 Dec 2014 at 7:51am
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Two posts that are very informative "What is the tensile strength of a mouse nest" 19 August, 2012 and "Steering clutches again" 15 October, 2012 The posts are about (2) very difficult steering clutch replacement where the clutch pack that would not retract into the drum so that the assembly could be removed. When this happens the quick way is to destroy the drum. Drums are getting hard to find and expensive. I made small hydraulic cylinders to push the clutch pack into the drum. This helped but I had to use a lot of force to remove the assembly. I attempted to wash the clutch pack by putting a pipe plug in the drain hole, adding diesel fuel and pushing hard on an immovable object with the steering clutch disengaged. It did not help. If you try this clean out the steering clutch cavity first. |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 12 Dec 2014 at 8:43am
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If they are rusty from water standing in case it's next to impossible to brake them loose and removal is only option. Somewhere over the years someone cut part of fuel tank support bracket so clutch pack will clear without removing the fuel tank on my machine but to work on the clutches I still removed the tank to work in area as its easier standing on the ground rather than standing on your head working down in a hole . Still have those extra fiber discs also . ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: slowdancer
Date Posted: 12 Dec 2014 at 9:43pm
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I would like to talk to you by phone. I need advise on removing the brake pad pins in the right sequence to prepare each clutch for lifting out. And do I really need to loosen the break band supporting screw on the bottom? I got the fuel tank off today and one battery container. The bolts on the battery containers were real tough to remove. Please respond to my email address: slowdancer@gvtel.com |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2014 at 1:05pm
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you have mail
oops it's not the fuel tank brackets but the battery box inside lip , so the battery boxes do not need removal to clear the clutch drum when extracted , fuel tank comes off to ease working area access. ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |