WD puller help needed!!!!
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=52223
Printed Date: 15 Sep 2025 at 2:04am
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Topic: WD puller help needed!!!!
Posted By: cotncrzy
Subject: WD puller help needed!!!!
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2012 at 10:53am
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Ok , I bought a WD from a friend of mine that had been pulling it. He has several wins in very competive pulls. In the 3500 Farm stock, and the 4000 Farm stock, it was hard to beat. I carried it to my first pull a couple weeks ago, and did rather well, got a second and two thirds...
Anyway, I am always wanting to improve, so I decided to do some things to get "cheap" horsepower. I put in 170 govonor spring, now get 1950 RPS's. I also have Electronic ignition.
Went pulling last night, my son pulls it in the 3500 and he got second behind one HOT WD45.
 When we pulled in the 4000 I noticed I was loosing rpm's, started pulling to one side and I never could recover had to stop but was almost out of power. This conserned us, we never has HP issues. In the 4500 it choked, I was beat by a H Farmall.  We loaded it and watched the rest of the night. I had some Allis guys tell me we were running out of gas, also some said timing was to low. I am running 115 octane fuel, some say this is hurting me, they claim without high compression it just creates heat that causes friction. The carb jet has been bored. The tractors thet was kicking butt smoked from excessive fuel 2/3's of the pull then "cleared" up under a load. Mine wont do that. I have not touched the timing, just installed the electronic ignition before we loaded it to leave. we were running the points at .15 gap for best results.
I fully intend to install a WD45 crank this winter, but for now I just want to play. Does anyone have any suggestions? I hook again This Sat. night in Farmall land and I want to crumble the EMPIRE!  ------------- C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM! |
Replies:
Posted By: AlVee
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2012 at 11:59am
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Well what i can tell you is my experience with high octane fuel in a low compression motor we had a 9-1 compression 355 chevy i thought the same as you run high octane 112 vp and have more power not so i had to advance my timing to 64 degrees just to get it to run at high rpm what i found out is with low compression and high octane the burn took that much longer to initiate and it creates all kinds of issues with detonation and flame travel since you dont have the heat from the pressure in the cylinder to make use of the higher octane rating ALL OCTANE RATING MEANS is its ability to not preigniton at high pressures and heat. the lower the compression the lower octane to run we actually made more power with 87 octane in that motor too and didnt have the wackey timing problems throughout the rpm range and won a lot of races we moved the timing back to 28 degrees go back to the KISS method keep it simple stupid that saying has saved my but many times trying to make things better. hope that helps |
Posted By: patrickmull
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2012 at 12:15pm
| do you have a inline fuel filter if so with gravity feed it will be a restriction |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2012 at 4:40pm
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I learned that any time you mess with the ignition, you reset the timing... Dump the high dollar gas and use regular. The 170 gov spring will not give you any more power. As soon as the RPM is dragged down with a load, the governor can only open the throttle up till it's wide open , no matter what spring you have. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2012 at 7:47pm
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Before you dump the gas what is your co.mpression. I wouldnt dump it but ad some 89 to its also posible it needs more fuel .timing should also posible be checked when changing from points to electronic. Did you open the plug gap up. This leans one up usually. ------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2012 at 9:09pm
| Take weight out of your gov. weights, it will let the gov. open the carb. at a faster rpm. MACK |
Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2012 at 7:15am
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Ok I am going to answer some questions. First I am still running the origional sediment bowl, and fuel line. I have changed the gap on the plugs to .40 from .30.
Yesterday afternoon I noticed that the Gov wasn't opening the throttle all the way, it still likes 3/4" or so, but when held there it starts to run out of gas. I have got to get more gas and open thet thottle. I plan on shorting the rod by 3/4" and I must make for more fuel supply. large lines?? Elect. pump?? Most all I have saw is running 3/8 fuel line with an inline.
Thanks to everyone for there help, I am open to any suggestions. ------------- C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM! |
Posted By: Rod B
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2012 at 9:59am
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Loosen the plug in the carb bowl and run it untill it runs out of gas, pull the plug and see if the bowl is dry. Then you know if it is a supply problem or not. May need a new sediment bowl or to clean the existing one and the inlet. Put on a larger fuel line and drill out the seat valve, or replace the seat with a larger orfice seat. |
Posted By: Kip-Utah
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2012 at 10:43am
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If all you did to the distributor is change from points to a pertronix electronic module, I would not suggest going past .032-.035 on your plug gap. With a "hot" coil .040 would be OK. Also what plug # are you running? I'd suggest Autolite 303 or Autolite 295 plugs. Kip ------------- HANSEN'S OLD ORANGE IRON. Showing, Pulling, & Going!! |
Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2012 at 11:03am
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I did change the coil, high voltage one... Autolite plugs 303. I have a small Zeneth carb, I dont feel a larger one would help... any thoughts? It has been bored out, but not for the RPM's it's turning now. it was at 1550 to 1600 now as is 2000 to 2100, if I adjust the linkage I can get 3000, just want 2500. At high RPM's it starts to loose them, then the gas catches up and it goes back up when not under a load, when loaded the show is over when it gets to 1200 or so. ------------- C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM! |
Posted By: Kip-Utah
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2012 at 11:11am
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Are you sure that this tractor does not already have the 45 crank? Either way if you're upgrading to the 226 cid specs at the RPMs you are running I'd install a 45 type replacement manifold and MS454 or similar WD45 carburator. Kip ------------- HANSEN'S OLD ORANGE IRON. Showing, Pulling, & Going!! |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2012 at 12:55pm
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Running out of gas could be from delivery from tank to carb but it can also be in the carb that bowl to jet passages or simpley the jet needs to be larger or the needle opened up. I suspect it needs more fuel for the wider hotter spark but I have also seen compression blow spark out under load when plug gaps are wide and plugs to hot.. ------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |