Questions about my new B
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49896
Printed Date: 24 Aug 2025 at 3:40pm
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Topic: Questions about my new B
Posted By: rrambo
Subject: Questions about my new B
Date Posted: 01 May 2012 at 2:39pm
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My wife and I purchased a '53 B a couple of months ago. (I guess it's a 53, very hard to read the serial number, they were painted over many times) The story was, they had used it on their farm until about 5 years ago and it sat under a shed ever since. They couldn't get it to fire and the rear tires are flat. I re-wired it, new switches, coil, ammeter and battery/cables. Turned it over and it was firing at the plugs but wouldn't run. Poured some gas in the breather and it fired right up. So I know it needs carb work. Also the alternator is not putting out according to the new ammeter. (12 volt conversion already done long ago) The alt looks to be a 3 wire 10si. I ran the #2 post to the main post on the alt and the #1 post with an inline non-grounded lamp/socket back to the ignition switch (bulb doesn't light up under any circumstance). My first question is about the carb. I'm finding a lot of rebuild kits but I'm not sure which one I need. For a 53 I find carb kits for a Zenith and Marvel carb. Which one do I have? My second question is about the alternator. Is that the recommended way of wiring it up? Jumper from #2 to main post and wire with light from #1 back to the ignition? Also, the rear tires have a split from sitting on the ground flat for so long. I have some new tubes. Would it be worth a try just putting the new tubes in the tires? Other than the split, they have a lot of tread on them. The shroud/tool box is rusted away at the bottom so I need a replacement. Also, there is no battery box. I've been looking at steiner tractor parts. Do they have pretty competitive prices? I'm new to tractors but have been wrenching on cars/trucks/motorcycles all my life so forgive me for all the questions.
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Replies:
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 01 May 2012 at 2:52pm
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You will need to look at the actual parts (such as remove the carb and look at the model #) as they could have replaced parts over the years. ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: GlenninPA
Date Posted: 01 May 2012 at 2:59pm
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You will find all the advice you ever need on your tractor here. As such, consider shopping for your parts at one of the vendors here, such as Tony, OK Tractor or Sandy Lake. They support this site. Nothing wrong with Steiner, but if possible, we try to support those who support us. ------------- Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgment. From listening comes wisdom and from speaking comes repentance. Wise men learn more from fools than fools from the wise. |
Posted By: ACEd2010
Date Posted: 01 May 2012 at 3:16pm
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As noted - easiest way to tell is to look for the small aluminum tag - but Zenith will typically say Zenith or Bendix vertically in raised letters on bowl and MS will typically say Marvel or Marvel Schebler horizontally on bowl. You will still need to get specific model off tag. The MS will typically say TSX on top and have a 2 or 3 digit model. They also typically have a build date that may be a single digit separated from 2 digits. Most frequently tag is on side of carb. See picture. uploads/3794/MS-Allis-Chalmers.jpg" rel="nofollow - uploads/3794/MS-Allis-Chalmers.jpg The Zenith tag is generally on top of carb and will most likely have several numbers - you are looking for a 4 digit number or possibly a 5 digit number - either may be followed by a letter A, B or C indicating revision. Typically the Zeniths are 61AJ7 model see picture. uploads/3794/Zenith61.jpg" rel="nofollow - uploads/3794/Zenith61.jpg |
Posted By: rrambo
Date Posted: 01 May 2012 at 3:27pm
| Thank you all for quick replies already! |
Posted By: Bob-Maine
Date Posted: 01 May 2012 at 3:48pm
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rrambo, As to the rear tires, "it depends" Cracks might not be fatal but splits weaken the tire and might be. If you remove the tires and examine them for weak spots, you can install boots or patches on the inside of any weak areas and "get by". But a tire exploding is not a good thing. If there is any chance it is too weak, have someone with experience look at it. Bob@allisdowneast ------------- I used to think I was indecisive, but now I'm not sure. |
Posted By: Bill Long
Date Posted: 01 May 2012 at 4:01pm
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Totally agree with what is said above. If you have Zenith carb you will find two very small jets at the bottom. Be SURE they are cleaned. Pop used to do it with Avery fine wire. You have Avery good tractor. MY FAVORITE. Take good ardor it Good Luck! Bill Long |
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 01 May 2012 at 4:13pm
| Keep us posted!! |
Posted By: morton(pa)
Date Posted: 01 May 2012 at 4:30pm
| I believe Steve Jelf was selling some stainless steel battery boxes a little bit ago. Maybe he'll see this and contact you about purchasing one. |
Posted By: DREAM
Date Posted: 01 May 2012 at 8:34pm
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Afraid I cant help you with the carb kit, the tires, or the tool box, but I may have some other parts you may need later. Not sure what part of GA you're in, but I get around the northern part of the state pretty often. Just let me know if I can help. ------------- I didn't do it! It was a short, fat, tall, skinny guy that looked like me! |
Posted By: rrambo
Date Posted: 02 May 2012 at 7:29am
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I'm in South Georgia.. Thanks brothers.. from the pictures in one of the above posts I was 99% sure it was a Marvel.. I couldn't see any tags on it so I went ahead and pulled the carb off.. Sure enough, Marvel is embossed on the edge of the intake flange.
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Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 02 May 2012 at 8:33am
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I can help you with all the parts,and the carb identification. I will be hard to catch today though as we are pulling out for a show. Our website should give you some good direction though.
JimD ------------- Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543 |
Posted By: rrambo
Date Posted: 02 May 2012 at 8:37am
| Thanks Jim.. I will check out your website. |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 03 May 2012 at 6:48am
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We offer complete rebuilding of the Zenith and M/S carburetors. Also offer rebuild kits and parts if you want to do it yourself. As for the Alternator wiring, the #2 wire runs to the output stud on the back of the Alternator. This is your "sense" wire from the system to the internal VR. The #1 wire runs to an Ignition switch post when the key is in the ON position. A 1 amp/50V diode can be used inline from #1 to the Ign. switch to eliminate any "run-on" the engine may have after the key is shut off from Alternator backfeed. An inline 194 or equiv. pilot light bulb/lamp can be used as an Key ON lamp can also be wired into the Ign. switch circuit to do the same job as a diode. In my wiring systems that I build, I use either depending on what the customer wants. Most of the time I use the diode version. If you need any help with either subject, be glad to help you out with parts, or info... HTH
mailto:Steve@B&B" rel="nofollow - Steve@B&B
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Posted By: rrambo
Date Posted: 03 May 2012 at 7:54am
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Thanks Steve. So it appears I wired up the alt correctly.. I can't remember the exact bulb and socket I put on, but it was a small non-grounded one from napa. So it appears then that I need a new alternator. I've got the carb soaking right now but I need a rebuild kit.
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Posted By: rrambo
Date Posted: 28 May 2012 at 2:52pm
OK, so I've completely cleaned the carb and it came out much better than I expected.. I've discovered after removing all the grime that it's a MS TSX-580 (also has EAE 9510 D on it, maybe a Ford part# ?): I've put in a basic rebuild kit but unfortunately I have ran into 2 issues.. The first issue is there is a hole on the ?back? of the carb close to the fuel line port:  In this hole was the following, which apparently is not made of metal because it disolved in the carb cleaner, threads are gone, just falls into the hole:  Taken apart it looks like this:  I have no idea what this is for.. All of the parts diagrams I've found for marvels don't even show this hole. Any idea what this is?? The second issue is the brass venturi was bent (bad) and a piece broken off (worse). So I need another one.. I can't find a brass replacement anywhere and all of the plastic ones I've found don't mention being for a TSX-580.. Any help finding a venturi?? One other issue (ok, so 3 issues) I'm having is finding tires.. I mean I can find new tires all day long.. What I'm looking for is just some decent used tires that don't cost a fortune.. I've already bought tubes. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 28 May 2012 at 4:14pm
As for tire, I went to a local farm tire store a few years back wanting to replace the blown out rear on my CA. It had 13-24's so i was looking for some 14.9-24's. I saw several rows of old tires to the side of the building and looked through them. I found a decent set of 12.4-24's that had probably 60% tread and heavy bean stubble wear. I bought the pair for 1/3 of what one new one would cost. They will out last me I'm sure. The tires were take offs from a front wheel assist tractor and weren't very old so no weather checks
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: ACEd2010
Date Posted: 28 May 2012 at 7:43pm
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You are correct TSX580 is Ford with 23/32 Venturi # 46-476. According to my books thats very large for CE engine. The TSX154/TSX305 used most commonly are 9/16 in p/n 46-A15. I don't have a clue about extra hole in back - threads look like stripped brass not dissolved. I would try to find a TSC154 or TSX305 or Zenith 11141/11142 or 10697/10698 or 9705/9706. There are replacement venturis out there - mostly plastic, but they seem to work fine. But if you can use an 11/16 I think I have a spare used p/n 46-467 for $5 plus shipping if I can find it - but won't have access til late next week. Best, ed |
Posted By: Boogerowen
Date Posted: 28 May 2012 at 8:16pm
| Just plug the extra hole, that is where the distalate line came in !!! |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 28 May 2012 at 8:48pm
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Here is a picture on a Ford. The sediment bowl is connected where your mystery plug was and there is a pipe plug in the side where your fuel inlet elbow is. Just another example of farmer ingenuity. Evidently someone didn't have the right pipe plug to put the carb on that tractor.  ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: rrambo
Date Posted: 29 May 2012 at 7:33am
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So 2 fuel inlets.. interesting.. that's the only thing it looked like it could be since it's there in the fuel inlet area.. I was just baffled by the jet that was apparently just a plug! Thanks everyone!
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Posted By: BrettPhillips
Date Posted: 29 May 2012 at 1:03pm
| The screw, spring, and "plug" appear to be from a Briggs and Stratton carburetor. I doubt they were doing anything more than plugging a hole. From the part number on your carburetor, it appears to belong on a 640 ford or something similar with the 134 CID Ford engine. As long as the throttle linkage works out, it might run OK on a B. |
Posted By: Kip-Utah
Date Posted: 29 May 2012 at 2:11pm
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Just plug the extra hole. This is not too much carb for a 125 cid engine. In fact if your tractor has ever been overhauled with the typical over sized pistons & liners that most kits have, you now have almost exactly the same displacement as the 134 cid engine this carb was originally on. Kip ------------- HANSEN'S OLD ORANGE IRON. Showing, Pulling, & Going!! |
Posted By: rrambo
Date Posted: 29 May 2012 at 2:20pm
| That's awesome.. thanks.. I just need to find a venturi now.. |
Posted By: BrettPhillips
Date Posted: 29 May 2012 at 3:46pm
| That was my thought too, Kip. That carb could be just the ticket for a mildly retuned "field and track" B. |
Posted By: rrambo
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2012 at 8:01am
I apologize for the poor quality of this picture, but it's the only one I've got of how it looked when we bought it. It's the pic from the ad on CL.. Since, I've taken the wheels off as well as the radiator shroud. From now on I'll take pictures of my progress. |
Posted By: GlenninPA
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2012 at 9:07am
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Nice 8N front bumper! ------------- Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgment. From listening comes wisdom and from speaking comes repentance. Wise men learn more from fools than fools from the wise. |
Posted By: rrambo
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2012 at 9:08am
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HA.. The very first thing my dad said when he saw it!
I've taken it off also. ;-)
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Posted By: rrambo
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2012 at 7:30am
Got the hood and tank off. The tank doesn't look to bad inside or out but I'll probably still line the tank. The hood has a few rusted out places up under the gas tank strap. Not exactly sure the best method to attack that. |