Farm Equipment - D-14 Starter bendix & ring gear # of teeth

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D-14 Starter bendix & ring gear # of teeth

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Topic: D-14 Starter bendix & ring gear # of teeth

Posted By: tominMi
Subject: D-14 Starter bendix & ring gear # of teeth
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2012 at 2:10pm

My D-14 sn is 11198 making it a 1958 . A prior owner replaced the starter bendix with an incorrect style. This information came from a repair shop where I took the starter for testing and repair if required. It appears the shop is correct as there are two styles one with 9 teeth & the other with 10 teeth. I want to replace the bendix with one that matches the # of teeth in the ring gear. Does anyone know which style of bendix & # of teeth is correct ( assumption is that the ring gear is the original ) for this year of tractor.

Thanks, Tom

Replies:

Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2012 at 3:02pm

Best to count the teeth on ring gear. Pull your plugs out and mark your first tooth. Then you can count and mark as you go keeping up with the number of teeth. HTH Tracy Martin

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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!

Posted By: norm[ind]
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2012 at 7:27pm

6v were 93 teeth 12v were 116 teeth which we both have can repair bendix or ring gear have both 1-574-342-4545 can ship

Posted By: tominMi
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2012 at 8:34pm

Tracy & Norm; Thanks for the reply. Norm could you confirm for me that the 10 tooth bendix is the correct bendix for a 93 tooth ring gear.

Tom

Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2012 at 8:54pm

the 9 teeth goes with the 93 teeth ring gear and the 10 teeth goes with the 116 teeth ring gear. Coarse with coarse, fine with fine.

Once tried to put a D14 starter on a D15. Not a match. Bob

Posted By: tominMi
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2012 at 9:24am

Appreciate the help & feed back from everyone. A closer inspection of the ring gear indicates the ring gear is badly worn in the normal places. I'll be getting further into this by splitting the tractor, removing & replacing the ring gear. This also will be a good time to inspect the clutch, pressure plate & throw out bearing & repair if needed. Any feed back from those who have done this is appreciated. I'll update the post as I progress.

Tom

Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2012 at 7:42pm

I just put a new ringgear on my 57 D-14,been 10 days of slugging and I have to pull it all apart..I AM NOT HAPPY....

Getting shop to r/r the ringgear(93teeth) was easy and everything seemed to go back the way it was..but I cannot depress the clutch.'somethings' wrong( I have 59 for comparison) but NOT looking forward to tearing it apart again!! I've already got 2 hernias from this,missing 2 discs(L4,L5) so it ain't going to be fun.

If you were closer, you could come and 'practice' on mine.

Rule #1 take a LOT of pictures!!! from all angles,lotsa closeups....

Rule #2 do NOT lose those pictures..a week from now, you'll understand why.

Rule #3 , block the tierod with cutoff 6by6s,straup up the wishbone kinda level,use a bungee cord to hold the steering shaft at the right height when reinstalling.

Rule #4, grab 2 'helpers' to lineup and push the engine half onto the tranny half.Doing it alone ain't much fun(you do get a lot of walking though).

Rule #5, get a 'clutch alignment/install' tool if you can though a 7/8" broom handle kinda works.Local garage tossed out ALL their tools...seems new clutch kits come with the right tool.

I used an 'engine hoist' to hold the engine,chained to #3 and 4( the rear pair) of valve cover studs..

Oh yeah, noticed I was missing a motor mount bolt( 1/2 fine) on BOTH D-14s..

..sigh...

PM me for more of the 'adventure'..better to learn from my mistakes than to make the same ones...I can save you 5-7 dayze hopefully.

ps If anyone knows WHAT I did wrong, please let me know..I'm NOT a happy camper today.

pps someone put 3,000# of concrete on my 1,000 wagon which is now U-shaped and has 4 busted tires...

it ain't been my day....hopefully you'll do better.

Jay

I should have done that 8 years ago when I put the cluch in

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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water

Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2012 at 8:13pm

If you put in a clutch and pressure plate, get Rick Corder on the forum,to rebuid it. Many aftermarkets are not set right and your fingers on pressure plat e will rub the throwout bearing very soon. The original disc in the early tractors were thinner than the ones used now. Save yourself the trouble from the begining. HTH Tracy Martin

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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!

Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2012 at 12:54pm

Don't know if it's covered in the manual...BUT.. be sure the clutch throwout bearing fork lever is BEHIND the cast iron 'stub' on the bellhousing !!!! WHEN i REASSEMBLED MY d-14 earlier this week I had it on the clutch side NOT the tranny side..arrrrgh....

Fortunately a friend dropped by this morning and in 1/2hr we'd split the tractor,properly put the fork where it should be and put the tractor back together.While it was split I put the clutch rod on and made SURE it worked right....

If I didn't have two hernias I figure I can do this job, blindfolded, in 5 to 6 hours.Hopefully I won't have to do it again too soon!

I got my ringgear from AGCO, $75....$100 with taxes and shipping...93 teeth Made in India...easy to install if you have torches.

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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water

Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2012 at 3:47pm

The safest method on the ring gear is your stove oven. Heat it to 400 degrees, use welding gloves and either drop it on flywheel that is flat, or set it on on while it is installed. Need to be fairly close to oven, but not on top of it. HTH Tracy Martin

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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!

Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2012 at 5:19pm

Uou must have a very understanding better half or an outdoor oven ! Mine'd kill me once she took a whiff of the ringgear cutting oil being burned off !!! LOL...

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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water

Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2012 at 5:24pm

You ought to see what happens when I 'cook' prep my welding rods in the little woman's oven, SHEESH, you would think I overhauled the car in the kitchen sink!!

Posted By: Bob-Maine
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2012 at 5:42pm

Tracy got it right. I heated mine while my wife was away for a few hours. I don't have a clutch pilot tool so I use a carpenter's combination square, the one with the sliding halves. I measure the distance from the edge of the clutch plate to some reference on the fly wheel and keep checking this meausurement around the circle, adjusting the cluth plate to get the measurement equal at all points. It's worked for me. Bob@allisdowneast

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I used to think I was indecisive, but now I'm not sure.

Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2012 at 10:09pm

I turned a bolt into an alignment tool for the larger engines, B, CA, D14, but for the G I used an impact socket. It fit perfectly. I think it was 3/8" or 7/16" x 1/2" drive. Bob