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best 220 overhaul parts

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=47516
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Topic: best 220 overhaul parts

Posted By: Markmn
Subject: best 220 overhaul parts
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2012 at 7:45pm

We are going to overhaul the 220. what are the best parts/kit to use?

Mark

Replies:

Posted By: JimWenigOH
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2012 at 8:51pm

Mark,

I don't have any first hand experience, but if I were to do mine, it would be from AGCO. Maybe someone who has some experience will chime in.

Jim

Posted By: ALLISMAN32
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2012 at 9:31pm

Had used some non OE kits and not had any problems. Then one time after overhauling a 8070 with a non OE kit, it used oil while doing tillage work. Tore it down and the rings were stuck with carbon trom the oil consumption. Got some new rings and it still burned oil while working ground. That time when we tore it down we noticed the rings were ductile, you could straighten them and rebend them and they did not break! After that we got Agco sleeves pistons and rings, and have ever since for the 301 and 426 engines. A 226 gas engine will be ok with aftermarket parts but the big boys deserve only the best in my opinion!

Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2012 at 9:35am

As long as the non oem kits contain brand names like Clevite, victor, perfect circle, etc... you are good to go, and will save millions!!! :-) All of our Allis engines get overhauled with non A/C parts, just cannot afford the AGCO markup. :-(

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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2012 at 7:40pm

I've had (and heard of) some pretty ugly things on OEM and after-market piston?sleeve kits for D21-210-220-7030's. All these engines do NOT have piston cooling jets to spray engine oil on the undersides of the pistons to keep them cool. It seems the piston skirt clearances got tightened up a bit over the years (by AC) and then these particular models will sometimes score a piston because things get a little too tight. I know a man from Wisconsin that had a 7030 apart three times for this and the third time he talked to me and I had him have the sleeves power honed to increase the skirt clearance +.002 or +.003" from stock and he never had any more issues. My suggestions are #1. no muffler...#2. no HP increase...#3. Overfill the crankcase 4 to 6 quarts...#4. use MINIMAL lube on sleeve O-rings when installing. Since doing these things I've never had a problem. My friend with the 7030 was over HP'erd, so sleeves needed to be loosened up in his case, as it was an in-frame repair and piston cooling jets weren't possible without removing the crankshaft.

Posted By: Calvin Schmidt
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2012 at 7:48pm

Had the same problems with two D-21 rebuilds that Dr. Allis noted. One got tight on the dyno during the breakin and pulled the bottom of a piston skirt off. The other one had to be tore down due to excessive oil consumption. I would only use kits from Agco and in particular their newest rod bolts which are actually ARP. I could write a book on my D-21 engine experiences. Be sure to check the bottom of the sleeves and most likely you will want to hone them.

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Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2012 at 9:03pm

Believe me, having an engine pull down and stall on the dyno will make you throw up.