fixing 175 issues
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=46332
Printed Date: 29 Aug 2025 at 5:34pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: fixing 175 issues
Posted By: sks72107
Subject: fixing 175 issues
Date Posted: 27 Feb 2012 at 11:30am
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Well folks i took your advice and purchased the 175 for $1200. I tried to talk the guy down, but he said "i wont give it away". My first offer was $900, and i had justification for trying to talk him down. The 3pt on this thing is nice, compared to the aftermarket on my d17, i love those slide out lower arms. Anyway, i have not heard engine turn over yet; no key. Steiner will solve that. The 175 had non working hydraulics so that was my first thing to look into. It took me a while to locate the pump, as my IT manual made no mention of a front mount pump. I found her nestled right below the radiator. After removing the 1,000+ bolts just to get the sheet metal off things looked clearer. Basically the issue of the pump appears to be that the piece that mates to the pump broke the woodruff key, in turn burgering up the pump shaft. Instead of tearing the pump apart first and replacing the shaft, I will get a new key and weld it into the shaft, filling in the missing portion of the shaft as its welded. Grind it to size and then install the mating part. The splined shaft that mates into the crank pulley also needs replaced as its worn and will quickly strip out. Next issue will be the RR rim. I knew the tire was flat when we got the tractor. Before loading i atempted to put air in the tire and as i took the cap off the stem, things crumbled. It does not hold air. I dont feel the rim is worth fixing. I need a replacement power adjust rim, anyone got one??? Is it possible to remove tractor tires from the rim by hand and save the tire?? (save more $$) Whats the best way to remove calcium from the tires?? Left rear rim should be salvageable, though the calcium will be coming out soon. I dont know if the engine is free as i havent had a lot of time to attempt turning it over. Im going to clean the entire fuel system and see what happens. Rear rim has me worried though. Will try to get pics of it sometime, ive said that before though. Thanks all.
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Replies:
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 27 Feb 2012 at 3:27pm
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The only way that works for me to get fluid out is toremove tire and install a new tube not all that expensive and then your done with the fluid! sounds like your making good progress, keep us posted!!
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Posted By: AaronH
Date Posted: 27 Feb 2012 at 4:47pm
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I apologize, I have not been following your story. I would focus on making sure the engine will run before going any further with the tires. my 2 cents. But when you get that far, yes, you can get the tires off the rims yourself. I would call local dealer and see if they would come out and pump the fluid out and trade their time for the fluid. maybe they have a service call close and wont have to make a special trip. as for the tire, after the fluid is out, jack the tractor up remove the tire and back your 17 up on it to break the bead on both sides. Bolt it back on the tractor and use pry bars to get the tire off. Thats how I have done it. Works for me. Vendors on the site will be able to hook you up with a rim. Or, if you are a do it urselfer, like me I just cut out the rust and weld in patches, but of course I have spare junk rims laying around to get patches from. Maybe you do too. Whichever way you go, best of luck on your new tractor, bring it back to life!
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Posted By: Chris/CT
Date Posted: 27 Feb 2012 at 5:43pm
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Make sure you get the pump alignment right or kiss the pump good-bye, assuming the pump is in working order, they are lot's of $$$ to replace. I had a bulletin here that shows the maximum allowable run-out on that pump.
Is this tractor a gas/diesel?
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Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Date Posted: 27 Feb 2012 at 7:40pm
Hang on to your shorts when you price out the splined drive parts....
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ALLIS EXPRESS!
This year:
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Posted By: Dave in il
Date Posted: 27 Feb 2012 at 8:23pm
For what you have in it so far, leave the pump set. See what the motor is going to take. If the motor isn't locked up and no transmission problems, then see about having the pump rebuilt and getting the drive parts. A new rim can be bought for around $500 with shipping, you might find something used. You could put $2500 in it and easily get your money back or even make a profit.
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AGCO My Allis Gleaner Company
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Posted By: nevans
Date Posted: 27 Feb 2012 at 9:19pm
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Do what they say about checking your engine and transmission first we have a used 175 pump forsale but make sure you hav something to work with first Niel
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Posted By: sks72107
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2012 at 6:54am
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Thanks for all the input. I did get the tractor to turn over last night via the starter. Sounded good. Im going to clean the fuel system out this week and put the carb on and see what happens. Someone on ebay sells new rims for 290+40s&h. Anyone know if these rims are of good quality. Prices from agco are 136 for splined shaft and 412 for pump shaft, deffinate ouch. Well its kinda hard to test the trans. cause i cant steer the thing without the pump functioning to drive it. And I would really appreciate someone finding that link on setting up this pump for alignment and all. Dont see how its all that difficult myself, thats why i wanna read the link. Thanks.
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Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2012 at 7:05am
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sks-- I can't help with the pump, I still think its a good idea to get it up on some good rubber that has been an enthusiasm builder for me in the past. as said by others this tractor will be a great unit when fixed and money wise you are way ahead of the game!!
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Posted By: KGood
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2012 at 7:14am
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Is it a vickers pump on those? Vane or gear type?
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Posted By: sks72107
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2012 at 1:20pm
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The pump is driven off a shaft that splines into an adapter that bolts to the crank pulley, an extension of the crank if you will. The pump does NOT go in place of the belt pulley, i think there may have been some confusion there. I plan on tackling the rear wheel this week. Gunna tear it apart and put a tube in and see how it works. As far as the pump type is concerned, i really dont know. I think i remember seeing a "W" stamped on it somewhere. I havent really cleaned it up good enough to really look it over. Today is a beautiful day here to get some work done.
Kgood, now that i think about it i think its a gear type.
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Posted By: sks72107
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2012 at 11:30am
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Weather was descent out this weekend, so i made some progress. I got the hyd pump all cleaned up with a new key in place, and i mean that key aint coming out without a grinder. Im usually against going to such extremes, but the job is done. I fussed with some electrical/starter issues for awhile. Turns out the armateur had some wires that werent making good connection in it anymore, figure that out after removing and tearing apart the starter 3 times. It now turns over with torque and speed. The 175 roared to life around 18:30 sat evening. Still had some running issues, but was able to test all gears and the power director. All check out OK. Anyway to the point. Some fellow made a comment about a bulletin on proper hydraulic pump runout. I was really wanting to read that over and learn more. Did some quick searches and came up with nothing. Is was obvious the pump alignment was off on this one, and when i get new parts, I dont want to repeat this. Where is this bulletin?? Thanks, i really appreciate it.
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