Allis G Head
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=45594
Printed Date: 15 Aug 2025 at 6:42pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Allis G Head
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Subject: Allis G Head
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2012 at 10:03pm
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OK I'm going to put the head on my G over the weekend. The book doesn't state wet or dry. What do you use on your head gaskets? Oil or no oil on the bolts?
Thanks
 Bob |
Replies:
Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2012 at 10:38pm
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I oil the bolts. Some use coppercote on gasket,some use aluminum paint. Whether oil or not, clean your bolts and threaded holes. HTH TRacy Martin ------------- No greater gift than healthy grandkids! |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2012 at 4:18am
| I have never in all my years used anything on a standard fiber type head gasket. |
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2012 at 10:29pm
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Tracy and Dick,
I have cleaned the threads and threaded holes already.
I never used anything on the gasket either, but my neighbor ask me if the manual states wet or dry. My D14/D15 manuals say to coat both sides of the head gasket with sealer.
Thank you for your replies, Bob
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2012 at 10:15am
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The Continental F-head engine manual that you can download from Wisconsin Motor's web page says torque oiled on head bolts. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2012 at 8:10pm
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The head gasket for my D-10 says right on the gasket DO NOT COAT. Dusty ------------- 917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express" |
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 18 Feb 2012 at 10:29pm
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Well, today I installed the head. In the torquing process # 11 bolt stripped and # 20 stud is stripped, both in the block. I removed # 11 bolt, 1 of the bolts that the parts book lists as being longer, ran a tap in the hole and tried a threaded rod in the hole. It seems to hold OK, but I'm afraid to torque it to specs, 55 lbs. I removed the stud and cleaned the hole and was able to install it deeper and get a bite. For some reason the stud doesn't set as deep as the other studs and I coudn't get it any deeper. Can I drill that hole deeper and add more threads? Thanks, Bob
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Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 18 Feb 2012 at 10:36pm
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Bob, The best thing to do is to put a helicoil insert in it. Pprobably a good time to check them all. The inserts come in differant lenghts, use the proper lenght for respective location. HTH Tracy Martin ------------- No greater gift than healthy grandkids! |
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 18 Feb 2012 at 10:47pm
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I thought someone would suggest doing that. The rest of them pulled up OK.
I hate to remove the head, that means a another new head gasket. I don't think that I can buy just the head gasket either.
Thanks. Bob
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Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 18 Feb 2012 at 10:51pm
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Probably can buy just a head gasket at NAPA. If any holes are in doubt, put them in now. It will save you trouble later. If you don't have a good way to drill them square to the block ,let me know. Pretty easy to make a drill guide. HTH Tracy Martin ------------- No greater gift than healthy grandkids! |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2012 at 7:11am
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You can use the same head gasket unless you glued it fast and it pulled apart. Painting a gasket with aluminum paint was so they could be reused when taking the head off at a later date. With all the testing of different valve set ups I have done I reused the same head gasket several times without a problem.
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Posted By: Richardmo
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2012 at 8:21am
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You can buy only the head gasket if needed i bought one at Napa.
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Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2012 at 9:09am
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There 3 different taps of the same size. The one most used- tapered bottom tap I forget the other, might be it's between these 2. I would suggest you try a bottom tap. It could be you don't have good threads all the way to the bottom of the hole. You might be able to grind/cut off the tapered part of a tapered tap to make a bottom tap. Dusty
------------- 917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express" |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2012 at 9:42am
Correct Dusty. I buy taps for the tool shop in sets. A lead tap, a plug tap and a bottom tap. I only use a bottom tap after I have tapped with the plug tap. In most cases in mold building I will only use a plug tap. There is times that I use all three starting with the lead tap. The only time I buy a single tap is if I break one and then replace it.
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Dusty MI wrote:Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2012 at 10:26pm
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I'm going to remove the threaded rod and get 6 longer #8 bolts as per the parts book. I do have the three piece set of taps. I seems that this hole goes into the water jacket also.
My other thought was to retap the hole to 7/16" but that would mean enlarging the hole in the head slightly. Would this work? I don't want to ruin the head yet.
Thanks you, Bob
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Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2012 at 9:51pm
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. |
Posted By: Dave Richards (WV)
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2012 at 2:55pm
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I think I only have three more of DickL's posts to read before I qualify for a master's degree. I learn something every time the man turns on his computer. I swear, if OAN would publish a page of Dick's shop and repair tips, I would subscribe again. I am a PHD, but in West Virginia, that stands for Post Hole Digger. |
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 11:20pm
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OK, I checked with the Continental parts people and they said that the engine uses 20
2 1/4" bolts. I bought 1 2 1/2" grade 8 bolt and installed it with thread sealer and it torqued to 55lbs, no problem. I bought a 3" grade 8 stud,, installed it and pulled 50lbs torque, removed it and coated threads with JB Weld and reinstalled it. I'm working on another project and will probably torque it up to 55 lbs on Saturday. I think I'm good to go. Thanks for everyones help. Bob
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