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CA Help update

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=45344
Printed Date: 11 Sep 2025 at 4:42pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: CA Help update
Posted By: Josh Day
Subject: CA Help update
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2012 at 7:56pm
I split the tractor and took the clutch apart. Everything looks good and it works as it should. We put it together again and it still does it! If I start it in gear, the clutch stops the tractor.When I take it out of gear and go to put it in another gear it grinds. So, we took the side cover of where the shifter forks are and everything looks good and there is not to much wear on the forks. Trans looks good too. What is the problem?? Please help! Thanks.



Replies:
Posted By: wfmurray
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2012 at 8:32pm
Took pto off my B  and put it back  and it would stall down when letting clutch out in gear . It was the gear that put pto in gear out of the fork and sliding up against ring gear.  Just another idea.


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2012 at 8:51pm
Does it have a pilot bushing or is it a bearing? Did you inspect the bushing and shaft ? Does the CA have a wick in the crankshaft? Is the wick dried out and hard? Pictures of everything in various stages might show something.


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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2012 at 9:18pm
After the clutch pedal is depressed the only connection between the flywheel and transmission is the drive shaft end into the flywheel pilot bushing. If you have a free wheeling transmission it does not take much friction at the pilot bushing to spin the drive shaft.
By free wheeling I mean that the transmission does not have the correct amount of drag.
 
Both bearings need to be tightened to have the type of drag you would have on a wheel bearing.  The counter shaft has a nut that is staked that would need tightened and re staked. the main shaft would need to be properly shimmed.
 
I thought I had a picture of the shimming of the main shaft but couldn't find it.
When you take the three bolts out and pull the seal you cah push back on the bearing and measure the depth to see how thick you need to shim between the seal retainer and the bearing. I use a .005 load. 
 
 
 
 


Posted By: Josh Day
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2012 at 9:45pm
Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:




Does it have a pilot bushing or is it a bearing? Did you inspect the bushing and shaft ? Does the CA have a wick in the crankshaft? Is the wick dried out and hard? Pictures of everything in various stages might show something.



It's a bushing


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2012 at 9:48pm
Is the bushing lubricated through a crankshaft wick?

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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: Josh Day
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2012 at 9:55pm
There wasn't a wick in it.


Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2012 at 6:09am
You should be able to lock the clutch down and measure the clearance between the flywheel and the clutch plate with a feeler gage or shim stock to rule out clutch drag. 
A transmission that is really low on oil will spin fairly easy even if the bearings have the proper load.
 
If the wick is gone or to dry to seep oil, a dab of grease on the drive shaft or in the bushing will last for years. Most of the bushings are an oilite type material and takes very little lubrication. You wouldn't want to put enough grease that it would sling out to the clutch plate.


Posted By: BobHnwO
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2012 at 7:19am
Make sure clutch disc is not in backwards!

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Why do today what you can put off til tomorrow.


Posted By: Lance/SC
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2012 at 8:54am
BobH, that happened to me one time with a pinto I rebuilt the motor on.  Killed most of a day trying to get it to go in place so it could be bolted up before a friend of my brothers stopped by.  He took a look at it and told us to pull the motor back up.  He looked it over and said to take the flywheel off and turn it over and we would be fine.   I had put it on backwards.  That's the last time I worked until 5 in the morning putting a motor back together.


Posted By: Josh Day
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2012 at 11:40am
Originally posted by Dick L Dick L wrote:



After the clutch pedal is depressed the only connection between the flywheel and transmission is the drive shaft end into the flywheel pilot bushing. If you have a free wheeling transmission it does not take much friction at the pilot bushing to spin the drive shaft.
By free wheeling I mean that the transmission does not have the correct amount of drag.
 
Both bearings need to be tightened to have the type of drag you would have on a wheel bearing.  The counter shaft has a nut that is staked that would need tightened and re staked. the main shaft would need to be properly shimmed.
 
I thought I had a picture of the shimming of the main shaft but couldn't find it.
When you take the three bolts out and pull the seal you cah push back on the bearing and measure the depth to see how thick you need to shim between the seal retainer and the bearing. I use a .005 load. 
 
 
 
 
              Thanks, Dick, We think that is the problem . Thanks again. I' ll keep you updated as I split it again


Posted By: Scott(SC)
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2012 at 1:14pm
Dick, how and where do you measure the bearing load?


Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2012 at 2:15pm
You turn the main shaft with it out of gear. There is a tool to measure it and it has a value which I do not have the tool or the measured value however you feel for a slight drag as you would set the drag on a front wheel bearing. You get it to tight and the bearing will sound rough.



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