mag block, square deck surface and counter bore sleeve seats $700-800

Charlie, I don't see the need in the mag check, that was the shop man's idea, but the deck is just barely out of spec and I vacillated back and forth on getting the deck squared. 

 

new crank WD45 $333.32 less bearings

 

 

 I had my block decked a smidge.The ctr bores aren't quite on the same plane as the deck but close enough.I think in retrospect,I would have been ok to just put it back together but.... You can probably skip that too and be alright. I believe these old girls need to be way of before it matters. Old school thinking here.LOL

Steve,

I saw OO's post but axed the Gleaner engine idea as it would take finding some scarce parts (more money). I'm thinking like you, I don't believe it really needs decked.....torque the head to specs, run engine awhile, re-torque and I'll bet it'll still be running long after I've departed this earth!

In line with your "old school" thinking, a couple of years ago a good friend and neighbor asked me to look at his Ford 600 (I think), as it had a strange sound. I determined it to be a rod bearing. dropped pan and pulled cap. bearing shot, crank journal scored some, with two spots where debris had been pounded into crank......'bout the size of eye of a sewing needle. 

So I tell buddy crank needs to come out, rebuilt, etc

Now, ya gotta know "Bill", owner of tractor. Bill is an engineer, very intelligent, and not afraid to get his hands dirty. Bill is also not destitute, nor is he cheap, but, he delights in finding the most economical way of doing things.

Bill doesn't want to pull the crank, wants to avoid the expense. So, I suggested an alternate plan, under protest.   I used ultrafine files to dress the high ridge where the debris had been forced into the journal, and then polished the journal by hand with emery cloth and scotch-bright. Then, I discovered that I could get one bearing, rather than a whole set from NAPA (wife ran a NAPA store at the time), so I had wife get me .015, .020, and I think .030 bearings and I used plastigage to test fit each bearing, checking four places, 90 degrees apart on journal. .020 was closes I could get, sent the others back. lubed bearing, torqued cap, replaced pan fired it up. He worked that tractor hard for a season and a half before it grenaded! 

Don't get me wrong. The Gleaner engine will be nice and a better engine. It's the lighter weight of the crank that gives the 45 it's snap. That's the only thing I can think of. A Wd won't have that same sound either because of the shorter stroke. The 45 IMO was made just right for what it did.

You tell me why then. I've swapped cams, carbs, governor weights, etc. About everything but flywheel and crank. The 45 is distinct and I blame the crank. On center doesn't mean heavier weight can be turned up to speed as fast as a lighter weight. If it's heavier, to me at least, it still takes more effort to get it going. I'm not a mathematician though. Someone here should be able to show some figures.

    As an aside,my 6th grade class went to Chicago Museum of Science and Industry. They had a large long round chunk of steel with a crank handle on the end.it was in a saddle riding on oil film.Took a lot of pull to make it turn but then you couln't stop it either. Mass,enertia,stored energy....kinda cool. 

mailto:Steve@B&B" rel="nofollow - Steve@B&B

 

It is not the crankshaft weight or the the .36 ft/lb change in rolling torque on the main berrings.  That is a verry small percentage of a single horse power at rated speed.

I don't believe that's it. I've had engines where I've put different springs. I never put a 45 spring in a D17 but have put a 45 governor complete on a 45 with a D17 engine. I still say it's the weight difference in crank and probably flywheel although a 17 engine in a 45 with a 45 flywheel make no difference. The 45 engines has more snap.

 

I was picking on the class clown about narrowing the rods in his engine build.  A narrow crankpin is stronger than a wide one, and if it matters the narrow berring has less drag. 

It's kinda funny ain't :•)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh no I agitated pankey.  Forgive me for I am sorry for I was only amuseing myself at his expense, which is verry easy to do. 

 

LMAO that's funny.  I thought someone asked him to "self deport"

 Heck , Lou, I 'll answer your question. You may live in an area where machine shops are all  doing hi quality, no compromise work.  And those prices are probably not out of line  for an established shop with well qualified machinists, using the most accurate  machines and tooling available.  You may not require that level of work for your application, my advice.... shop around, there is ALWAYS some one who WILL do any job CHEAPER.   

 PS you really do know how to bring out the best of the peanut gallery ! And I think they should throw in an align bore,recondition the rods,  complete balance job, and all the head work, too.  LOL